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And yes the paint will burn off immediately, the coated ones are the ones you want

The body of the inner tie rods ends should be to the front of the car, with the nuts to the rear. Yours is assembled backwards

The biggest issue is your drag link looks like its installed backwards.

I can definitely understand your frustration, I have been there. Next time I see my buddy with the duster, I'll look at the tube to pan clearance, I dont recall offhand. I just know we didn't have to ding anything at all.

Just sayin that you tried multiple headers, none of which fit YOUR car. So seems like it might not be the headers.....And since I last commented on your thread a while back, I helped a buddy install a set of Doug's on a 70 duster with a 318, they cleared everything with not even a ding...

The common denominator in this thread is one particular car, with various headers that none of which fit. Seems pretty logical that it's not the headers fault.

It seems strange, of the multiple sets I've put on, NONE required that type of hacking to install. I still think there is a engine location issue

That mount I bet is the problem, it doesn't look like the engine is in the right location

Something doesn't look quite right with that dr side mount. Are you using the proper bolts to bolt it to the block? If the bolts are too small, the mount wont place the engine in the correct spot

I have personally installed 4 sets on 4 different Abodys, and NONE required so much as a ding to clear. What part number are you installing?

Ive put on 5 sets of d543s, on 5 different a bodys, never had to dent anything...you most likely have a motor mount issue, but I guess it's a little late now! Got any pics of the install?

The joke online is BWD stands for "broke when delivered" I'd try a OEM part instead

Totally incorrect information. You can not just slap a 72 down arm on a 73 up drag link like the OP has. The taper is wrong in drag link also. All he needs is the correct 73 up idler arm.

Installing headers on a mopar A body is a right of passage....

That is the price for coated, and about thee best price you will find.

Good info, but the 453R is a bare steel uncoated header, the 453 is coated....just throwing that out there...

Turn downs at the rear axle often result in fumes in the car, all the way out the back is a better choice imo

I have the Doug's on a column shifted 904 in a dart with a magnum 318, miles of clearance everywhere.

Doug's would be my choice....I love mine. Can buy online at auto zone website when they have a 20% off Sale, gets them to your door for about 500

I agree.....doesn't look good....the way I have seen turn downs done that looked good, was tucked up under the valence further, so the tip part was right at the edge of the valence. The last few cars I did I just used the "pypes" tips from summit that resemble the factory ones

If you buy a quality set, like Doug's or TTIs, then they are definitely worth it...more power AND fuel economy, thats a win-win!!!

Your problem is almost for sure, your engine location. But having the 73 mount system is a hurdle in your case. The welding and jigging of these k frames is all over the map, and its also been correctly mentioned already that the aftermarket mounts are sometimes off also.......I feel for ya...

The 73 up spool type K frames seem to be the worst fitting type. If you look at the rubber mount inside the bracket, there is a TON of space for the engine to settle, squish, or be located odd.

Its not the TTI kit your talking about, but I have the 3" summit kit on my 70 duster and it took some trimming, but the fitment is pretty good. I used factory style tips also. Nice setup for the money IMHO

Post a picture, otherwise who knows WHAT you got going on.

Those look to be truck headers, not for a car.......

On a mild motor, I don't think there is gonna be much gain. I do like the way the mandrel bends look though.

snug the clams slightly, and work your way forward. once its all done and fitment looks good, weld permantly.

Takes the same amount of work to unbolt three collector bolts as it does to unbolt that cap and insert system, and cheeper.

Sounds ok on paper I guess, but not likely to have ANY real world performance advantage. forcing the exhaust to make that turn with the insert, would certainly be more restrictive than allowing the exhaust to flow to the path of least resistance, which would be through both pipes.... Just my...