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Will you ever have to walk home if you have a carburetor issue? Will you have to walk home if your EFI has a issue. I've ran both, carburetors are simple, cheap, easy to tune and parts readily available. Just stuff to think about

Dont forget, the crap fuel that plugged up your thermo quad will clog up any replacement carburetor as well.

I have 2 quick fuel 450s, dual lokar throttle cables adapted to the A body pedal

It should have a higher idle speed when cold, the gradually come down to normal idle as it warms up. You might need to look at you IAC motor settings

@1Badcolt

I know, heck your lucky I managed to figure out the pictures!

Yes, it's sold this way by Fitec, it's designed specifically for tunnel rams, cross rams, ect.

The system I used was designed as a dual 4 system. It has a computer in one of the throttle body's, the other just has injectors

I'm sure there are more sophisticated systems out there, BUT this thing ran so well, I saw no reason to look any further.

Yes, it's Brad Penn racing oil, has zinc for flat tappet cams

The only crossram ever made for a small block chrysler was the edelbrock STR-12, those are extremely rare, and bring $2000 and up when they do show up.

Yes, you need the filler neck donut

Yeah, this intake was developed at a time when the 340 most most relevant on the street/strip, and I would imagine a 340 would be a little soft on the bottom end. The 4" crank in this engine makes it totally street able though. In fact this combo makes more low end than the previous well tuned...

4:10, but after I make a few strip passes in a few weeks to see what it will run, I plan to swap to a 3:55

Well, the paperwork that came with the engine said it's a 292/509 iirc, the same hyd flat tappet mopar put in the 380 horse crate motors. It does have just GOBS of low and mid range torque, I would imagine a switch to a modern custom grind solid cam and a port job would do wonders, but it's...

I very strongly feel it could use more cylinder head, but it's pretty awsome as it is.

No, I didn't weld any dams in the intake, just been driving it. I may at some point, but it runs flawlessly, so I can't see why I need to?

Those are just edelbrock heads rebranded as mopar

Hard to find out on the street, it's kinda scary, but it pulls like a freight train on nitrous

Just a little update on this thing, been driving it pretty regularly for over a year, and man is it IMPRESSIVE. I've done basically ZERO tuning or fiddling with it, it's a tiny bit temperamental on dead cold starts, but other than that, it's get in and drive anywhere. There are absolutely no...

Just say NO to any mass rebuilt type carburetor. The thermo quad in particular, has numerous plated parts, and they should be properly replated during a rebuild, not something that can really be done at home

You have less cylinder head than a stock, low compression 340, and alot more induction. And with that low vacuum on a 274 cam, I'd say you have multiple tuning and mismatch combo problems.

I'm pretty happy with mine on a crossram small block stroker. It's not as refined as a OEM system, but it's superior to a carburetor for sure.

Remove the wound spring on the primary throttle shaft, and then use a conventional throttle return spring. Problem solved

My experience has been it's nearly impossible to over carburetor a SBM. Run it at the track with both carbs and check MPH, then you will have your answer

Just clean the carb......sheesh

Spraying it out with a can of carb cleaner lots of times won't get all he varnish out of the tiny passages and air bleeds. Needs to be soaked in carb cleaning solution

After experiencing the same exact issues, I dumped all the holleys and put thermo quads on all my drivers....no issues ever again for me.

Proof positive that fitech is a under-developed product put on the market to soon.

My engine has a stock cam, idles with 20 inches of vacuum. A long duration cam will require a richer mixture.