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I live in NYS, I get it. Most cops leave the older stuff alone and most don't know it well enough to know what it came with originally or not. "AAR Dodge Darts came with these from the factory, just like AAR cudas and T/A challengers" The oval exits i'm speaking of are almost un-noticable.

What isn't legal?

What you want is Dr. Gas TA style muffler that goes from round to oval exhaust. Quiet and fits tight to body, no ground clearance issues.

This was always my concern with these and that is why I chose not to use them. I bought a nice 3" round double rolled tip.

Too little timing at idle can also cause header tubes to glow when idling or at part throttle because the fire in the cylinder is igniting too late and is still burning when the exhaust valve opens and the fire goes out into the headers, causing them to glow.

I ordered the in stock coated but unpolished 2.125 headers. If anyone is interested in the lightly used 2" polished ones DM me.

Pipe and a BFH will fix that

I only used 2.125 fenderwell headers on the dyno. My engine builder says it wants the new headers.

Springs moved to the frame is a full minitub. I've snaked the tailpipes through the rear of the leaf spring. If you car sits lowish or you run 3" pipes it will hit. The only way I've found to do this is to put a narrower tank in the car or narrow the factory tank.

I made my own out of 3" stainless and some pre-bent elbows. 6/1 header with a 3" collector. Borla SS mufflers. Obviously you can use mild steel if you want to cut cost a bit, but it rusts, hence why people replace exhaust systems.

I have TTI 2" in polished ceramic coated. I am upgrading to 2.125 stepped headers as i've crested the 600hp mark, and dyno'd with 2.125 headers. My question is..... Is there a big difference between the ceramic coated and polished? TTI has a set of 2.125" in stock and coated, but not polished...

This is the case with my car. 2,750 it definitely decreases and cruising in the 3's it's gone.

Stay away from Slowmasters, they suck, and they drone.

On a full length system you have two variables that stand out, the mufflers and the diameter of the system. Adding a resonator between the mufflers and the bumper will help and will not hinder performance aside from the added weight.

Does anyone make re-pop inner wells? That would be my first choice. You could stick with fenderwell exit headers, but personally I hate everything about them. They do make them for small blocks too. YOu could have someone, a good tin man, make you the missing pieces. I might just strut the...

How many states aren't "visual only" I'm in NYS and it is visual only for 1995 and older. They never put my 69 dart GT on a lift. It just gets a sticker in the parking lot.

Which is a very, VERY conservative replacement schedule, with good reason.

100% and the smaller pipes will be louder in general.

Farmtruck makes over 1,000hp just on the engine alone. ANything wll sound badass on that thing. They sound like flowmasters to me. Whatever baffles they use are metal. THey make the idle sound tough, like a flowmaster, then on the throttle that all changes. Drone, most exhausts drone...

There it is, chambered

THey sound like a chambered exhaust, like flowmaster

Never heard of them Let us know what you think

I like Dougs, but i've only used them on GM. My TTI's are polished ceramic coated and 5+ years old. No issues as of yet (fingers crossed)

TTI is the only header I will run.

I run Borla XR-1 mufflers, essentially expensive glasspacks. THey work well and are surprisingly not crazy loud unless you're at WOT.

So with that, the 2.5 is fine, the 3" is optimal. There is no reason to choke an exhaust down in size after the collector. The X-pipe will not hurt the sound of your engine.

What size are your collectors? That is what size your exhaust should be. An H pipe will always be advantageous, partly in balancing each side, but also in quieting it down a bit. An X-pipe is better in function, but not always possible.

At 500hp+ you'll see a loss going to 3" dual from larger. Dyno proven. If your header collectors are bigger than your exhaust system, by your logic, the headers are too big for the engine, which isn't the case necessarily.

Collector extensions do make more power (if they are the correct length) but they are typically the same diameter of the existing collector or a 1/2 inch step. So again, if you kept the whole system the size of the collector, in a perfect world, that would be better than a step down or multiple...

Tell me why you'd step the exhaust down from the collector diameter other than space/clearance.