Search results for query: *

I think he meant he was throwing the stock 400 heads out.... not his 915's....at least I hope so...

You'll have to check fitment on a few air cleaners too

We're running a 440 w/ M-1 (taller) with a 1" spacer under an 850 dp holley and it fits...

yes

Should I be able to clear 185 75 r14's?

Is it because of the heat or because of the front tire size?

Highly worked over 452's

The last cable I ran on a '87 Dakota I ran pro street in the early 2000's I was either snapping the cables or they were getting burnt through by the headers...I wanted to try and aleviate this by getting the headers out of the way... If I adjusted the path so that the cable wasn't kinking and...

Wha?

^^^and this is what I've been hearing all along....

Does anyone have supporting claims saying the tri-y's will produce? I'm completely open to hearing it. I've seen many many people on here and other forums that are selling off their tri-y's for tti's...

I have made my mind up to an extent...per the title of the thread. If someone offered me the tti's for the same price as I could get equally comparable fenderwells for, I'd be inclined to pick the tti's. Is this ALL about price? No. But I could think of a few other places to put those...

I want to make the smallest cuts possible in the inner fenders and I have plans in place if I go this route to add paneling to contour to the pipes. I'm also figuring on adding a heat deflector for the master cylinder.

Hero? No. However, why are we all here? Is everyone that wrenches on their cars heros? No. We want to put a smile on our faces when we punch the pedal. These are the kinds of comments that drive me to stay in my garage and away from the computer. Why the hell would I build a big block...

My reason is I don't want to pack 8" of **** into a 4" hole. I want the ability to work on my car with headers in place if possible...that's why I'm trying to stray from the tti's...

I'm not - nor will I ever be concerned with originality with this car or any car I ever build. I know some people are and that's fine. Just not for me. This car is a 318 auto on the column car.... but no longer. So I have no reservations cutting the inner fenders as long as structural...

I heard somewhere along the lines in someone else's thread that they were only good to like 450-500 hp. Plus I was hoping to get somewhere near 2 to 2-1/8" primaries...

cuda20 ---- Do you have any additional pics showing the bay and underchassis? Specifically the cutouts in the bay and then under chassis where the pipes change direction from the collectors? I know this isn't the right time of year to be asking for pictures, but didn't know if you had more...

I've got mixed feelings about going with fenderwell headers. I'd like to hear from you all's about why I should go with them. My reservations lie with cutting the inner fenders and taking away from the front end stiffness, structure, etc. This car is to be street/strip driven with 75% street...

Thanks for that info!

Ok, sorry to disappoint the majority of you, but I think I'll be keeping and running the 1.14 bars. Thanks for all the input

I'm leaning towards doing the 400 stroker just to save the room. I have what I've been told is one of the best b motor intakes in the Holley Street Dominator and I have a 800 holley dp for on top. I'll probably throw a 1" or 2" spacer in there if it'll fit under the hood. The only thing I'm...

I'm going to be doing street driving with occasional strip use. I'll be building a ~470-500 inch stroker from a low deck. I have two sets of torsion bars to choose from here: 1.14" and .88". Which way should I go? I had picked up the larger bars here a year or two ago figuring they would be...

My plans are to use a set of ported and polished 452's. I'm planning on breaking in with 3.23's then switching out to 4.11's.

That's sort of the direction I was thinking of traveling just for the reasons you stated. Shorter package, Slightly more sturdy, etc. Everyone else - feel free to chime in. I'd like to get as many different perspectives or reasons as I can.

So, initially I had every plan to build a 400 block up to a stroked 500 +/- motor and my initial reasoning behind this was because we had a 400 sitting in the back of the shop and I figured in an A-body (I'm building a '68 Bcuda notch) it would save me an inch or so in height under the hood...

There's nothing inherent to the 413 that I would steer you away from buying it. If I was looking for a big block to put in my truck I would go for a 413 that I could hear run...buying a motor out of a junkyard or off someone without hearing it run is ALWAYS a crap shoot. But, with proper...

Parts will be harder to get for a 413 as compared to a 400 or 440. as far as the internals go at least

Jim, Not to hijack this thread, but after reading your write up on BBD, am I right in saying that moving the spool mount locations back and trimming the steering box mount that there are no other alterations that need to be done to one of these K frames? No cutting of the K itself? Thanks D

Anybody have results with these two pans? The idea is to not have to buy anything else if I don't have to.... modifications can be performed if necessary, but I'd rather not have to buy a pan if I don't have to. If that's what it comes to, that's what it comes to, just looking for anyone with...