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Do you have a pat number for the bracket?

There have been a bunch of different D60 configurations made over the years. Figure out what you have, different axle splines etc.

That is a parts gold mine for you, it would have everything you need. At least scrap price is up now, that truck is worth around $400 after you take what you need off it.

Cheaper to rebuild the trans that's in the truck now. The short tail shaft 727 would be the auto the truck would have came with, but it is not a direct bolt in, there may be differences between adapter between the transfer case, the obvious stuff would also be needed, steering column, kickdown...

Don't quit if you cannot lift a 833, just buy a trans jack.

Talk to the shop building your drive-shaft, in my case 3.5" was cheaper because it common 4x4 stuff.

I have a 3.5" in my duster with a 1" lowering block on a 8.75 and it clears fine.

I had the local driveline shop set up a set of new gears with a cone sure grip, and I asked him which fluid to run. He said conventional gear oil, do not use synthetic.

The linkage can be a real pain, if anything is not stock.

I know the 3.91 is fun, I would find a complete 3.23 set up and swap gears. I used to swap 3.91 in after work on Friday and on Sunday morning swap the 3.23 in. If you are smart you can extend the brake lines, so you just pull the axles out a few inches, unbolt the center and rear u-joint. With a...

If we were closer I would trade you a ready to bolt in center section 3.23 489 sure grip for the 3.73, I also have a 2.74 but it is in a 742 case. I like low gears, only one main highway thru WV, so I drive mostly back roads.

Are you working in socks?

I broke a set of spider gears with a slant six on an open 8.75 carrier.

Yes my Duster had one in it.

If you are starting from scratch, go Dana, I just bought a 60 floater pretty cheap. I also picked up a 85 short box Dodge truck, 440, 727 it has a 8.75 that somebody put under it. Either rear will hold up under the truck, its going to be real hard to get it to hook up, its most likely just...

That looks like the extra 2 qt pan I have.

I just had a 727 rebuilt, on the receipt it said use type "F" fluid.

I am going to take the 3.23 out of my Duster 340 4-speed, 275/60/15 I have a 4.30 gear which should wake it up. The only reason I used the 3.23 was because I had them when I built the rear. I drive mine the same as you, short hops, and 2 lane highway, in hilly WV. I used to change the gears...

Did you see the listing in the add 1/2 npt, that is huge.

Just drill and tap for 1/4" NPT

That was my best guess, I chased my tail on a power wagon I bought one time. It shook so bad, I pulled the covers off the rear ends, just check to make sure the axles had the same ratio in them. Rebuilt the CV joint $30 for the kit from NAPA, vibration gone.

Take the front driveshaft out and drive it. My money is on the CV joint, there is no good way to check them, unless you tear it apart.

I would also ask for spline count on the axles, they did weird stuff in the 40's, 50's and early 60's with those rears. My 46 Dodge also has that style with 4.10 ratio, its almost cheaper to change over to later model stuff than to buy brake parts for it.

No it was modified, but it was no problem to downshift on the interstate to third and take off, tires were kinda short 235/60/14.

Yeah, that duster only had 3.23 gears, but I did 4.56 gears in the truck, and it still was not happy.

Yes I have also had a lot of pickups with the od. One I had was with a slant and it was gutless, I even tried putting 4.56 gears in it, still not worth a crap. Put the 3.55 gears back in, and put a NP435 trans in it, way better truck after the trans change.

I remember years ago I took that ill-geared OD out of my Duster and put a straight 4-speed in, way better car. The best thing about an OD is it does everything wrong, but the lower first gear.

Go for it, if it makes you happy.

Yeah its no big deal putting the hump in. One thing that was weird with the one I cut out, it was only stich welded in about every 3 inches, then covered with that thick factory seam sealer. Lazy worker that day. Shame the car was too far gone, it was a nice car when it was built.

You still have to add the hump, so if its an auto E-body, yes you have to cut the floor.