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Mechanical for me, plain and simple. Yes I prefer Auto-meter.

That is correct.

I am not sure of the gauges you are wiring, but the blue/white tracer on my car was 12V key on.

This is how the wires were on my 73 Duster. This is the connector on the instrument cluster. Fuel - Dark Blue Dash lights - Orange 12V key on - Blue / White tracer...

@halifaxhops sells metal ones.

I do too, even in my daily drivers. Just this Sunday, my cousin came down to look at a big block D-150 I had, he said he wanted it. I said I just put this fire extinguisher in it this morning, I am keeping it. He said ok, he just wanted it for the engine and trans, even though I just drove it...

Moroso makes a really slick one, it a battery terminal, with a knob on the top, just rotate the knob, no power.

I have a shut off on all my old stuff.

I put a piece of rubber mat between the battery and the tray on mine.

Two different Dusters, two different concepts, I owned. I actually like the stock gauges, with the few add-on gauges.

What size tach are you trying to mount?

Its easy to get running with the hei module and a good factory electronic ignition. I have a 85 D150 with a 440 auto, its simple to wire, just use a good heat soak for the module.

I have had some AGM batterys last over 10 years in my motorcycles and 4-wheelers. Never used one in an auto. Also 2x on marine batteries, use them on my car trailer to run the winch, its permently wired to a cheap $15 solar charger from Harbor Freight.... Check the polarity on the HF solar...

The ignition box mounts on the drivers inner fender.

It mounts to the intake.

I bought two sets and they will work.

I doubt it, the tip would be too small. I just use a hand held blaster from tractor supply, they are like $20 and common baking soda from the grocery store. The top emblem for my grandpa old farm tractor was cleaned up in a few minutes with soda and a hand held blaster.

It does, works great for bulkhead connecters also.

I just blast them with baking soda, a cheap hand held sandblaster is all that is needed. Then rinse with water, they will look new. Before putting the bulbs back in, coat with dielectric grease.

I would try it, I normally just test fuses with an ohm meter, but this one was blown. My running lights and turn signals did work. Initially I was thinking the brake light switch was bad, just bought the car a week ago. I am glad it was a simple as a fuse.

Just went thru this today, no dome light, brake lights did not work. Blown fuse, simple as that.

Glad you found it, make a spare. I mis-placed the keys to our camper last week, looked everywhere for it. I found it the other day, I have a stack of masking tape on the shelf above my workbench, how they ended up there is beyond me but I found them. Way better than plan B, send the little...

This is probably the easiest thing to do, that way all the keys would still be the same. Unless their is a mobile locksmith in your area.

I cant remember if it is a powermaster or summit brand. I liked it so well I bought another one for my engine start stand, it is has already been robbed for my cuda.

I put a single wire alternator on my Duster in 2010 and have no issues with it, I wired it to the starter solenoid hot post no issues. I also bypassed the amp gauge on the dash. The alternator I bought was built in a mopar case, so all the brackets aligned fine.

Friction tape, Mc-Master Carr sells it.

It looked the same as factory, I think I bought it from Summit Racing, its been a few years now, but it was identical to the factory one, had the solenoid wire and battery terminal.

They reproduce that section of harness for not alot of money, I bought one for my duster for like $30.

Halifaxhops will hook you up with a good working unit. He is a great guy to deal with, there is a thread on here where he made some magazine, this year up at Carlisle. I actually picked some parts up off him this year.

I have a working points distributor, but the vacuum advance is funky, I can ship to you. Just take the advance and whatever you need off your distributor, and send me a complete distributor back, I only need it for a core. PM me and I will get it out to you. Free, just make sure I get a core back.