Noob question; Installing intellitronix digital gauge, (tw: LOTS OF DUMB QUESTIONS)

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In your original post you wrote
"2. Additionally there is a youtube video of a gentleman who installed this gauge and he mentioned that he taped these two black and red wires together (pictured in mess.JPG, encircled in green).... I have a feeling that this maybe what black and red wires are supposed to connect to? For context I was not able to start the car until I taped those together.

I believe those 2 wires (black and red) are the connections to the original Amps gauge. You should not connect any of the wires from the new gauge panel here. I would nut&bolt those together and tape them up real good for now until you learn a little more. Don't let those accidentally touch any part of the dash frame either.
 
RogerRamRod said:
In your original post you wrote
"2. Additionally there is a youtube video of a gentleman who installed this gauge and he mentioned that he taped these two black and red wires together (pictured in mess.JPG, encircled in green).... I have a feeling that this maybe what black and red wires are supposed to connect to? For context I was not able to start the car until I taped those together.

I believe those 2 wires (black and red) are the connections to the original Amps gauge. You should not connect any of the wires from the new gauge panel here. I would nut&bolt those together and tape them up real good for now until you learn a little more. Don't let those accidentally touch any part of the dash frame either.
Click to expand...
Yep, gotcha! Thats exactly what I did.
 
Double check them by wire color or better yet, electrically. It is EASY TO reverse the connectors front to back and go CW instead of CCW etc etc.
 
Team,

I got the attached diagram off of mymopar (named "Dodge 6.jpg" its for a 74 Dart) and just got an epiphany, between the two attached image I think one is inverted. If you're looking straight at the printed circuit connector vs behind.

To add a layer of complexity, my printed circuit connector is letters. But I think A is 1, B is 2, 3 is C, and so on...

I am wondering if you will agree with my course of action;

IGNORE the wire colors and just use the position of wires based on the diagrams.

I am wondering about your thoughts on this.

Dodge 6.jpg


Gauge.jpg
 
So in this case as per this picture I highlighted using MS Paint that the fuel gauge is connected to "B" in my Printed Circuit Board.

Dark Blue - Fuel Gauge.jpg
 
The wire colors should be pretty much accurate based on the OEM diagrams. I would double check them against rotation. The "mirror image" syndrom is exactly what I was getting at.

When I first got interested in ham radio/ electronics, that is one of the first things I had to learn--because I worked on a lot of vacuum tube equipment. Our RADARS (Ground Controlled Approach) in the Navy were all vacuum tubes.

On those, ALL diagrams are looking at the bottom of the tube base

So whatever the diagram specifies you have to go with, and aftermarket diagrams MAY BE DRAWN OPPOSITE
 
67Dart273 said:
The wire colors should be pretty much accurate based on the OEM diagrams. I would double check them against rotation. The "mirror image" syndrom is exactly what I was getting at.

When I first got interested in ham radio/ electronics, that is one of the first things I had to learn--because I worked on a lot of vacuum tube equipment. Our RADARS (Ground Controlled Approach) in the Navy were all vacuum tubes.

On those, ALL diagrams are looking at the bottom of the tube base

So whatever the diagram specifies you have to go with, and aftermarket diagrams MAY BE DRAWN OPPOSITE
Click to expand...

FOUND IT.

Now I just have to decipher it.

FSM.jpg



For anyone that may stumble into this thread, for generations to come
 
Ok so I used the alphabetical index. For fuel gauge it took me to this page and it says "CI 10" similar to what I posted above. So does this imply that the wire is "G4 18 DBL" meaning its "A" on the printed circuit connector? Mine is blue with white stripe...

WTF :BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:

Fuel to FSM2.jpg


IMG_3437.jpg
 
okan74duster said:
Ok so I used the alphabetical index. For fuel gauge it took me to this page and it says "CI 10" similar to what I posted above. So does this imply that the wire is "G4 18 DBL" meaning its "A" on the printed circuit connector? Mine is blue with white stripe...

WTF :BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:

View attachment 1716125343

View attachment 1716125344
Click to expand...
What I see here, and double check this, is, the two orange up at left are your dimmer controlled dash lights

Violet is temp sender
Dark blue is ignition "run"
Blue/ white is fuel gauge
Grey is oil sender

That last diagram you posted you sure it is A body, and not E/J/ etc?

Easiest way I know to double check is disconnect temp and oil, check at cluster connector, should both be open, then ground one or other and that one obviously should be grounded.

One thing you can do when testing to "not" blow stuff up is to put a big wattage lamp in series with battery ground. This will allow you to power low power circuits and test them, and if you short something, it will just light up the series lamp. Use a headlamp or an old stop/ tail with both wires on the socket wired together, and then ground the shell.
 
67Dart273 said:
What I see here, and double check this, is, the two orange up at left are your dimmer controlled dash lights

Violet is temp sender
Dark blue is ignition "run"
Blue/ white is fuel gauge
Grey is oil sender

That last diagram you posted you sure it is A body, and not E/J/ etc?
Click to expand...
Yeah its for A body, this is the 2nd page.

How did you figure those colors? The diagram from mymopar is different than what the FSM says

Page 2.jpg




EDIT: I may have fucked this up. Allow me to make sure its for a Duster. Standby.

EDIT: EDIT: Yup, I am stupid. I am supposed to be looking at "V-L" d'oh!
 
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Team,

Almost there before I start cutting stuff up.

Am I correct in my assumption that D10 18 LGN is the wire for when hazards are blinking, and D6 18 LGN is the left turn signal?

What is weird is that the D9 18 T seems to be the left hazard blinker (?) but I cant seem to find the D5 18 LGN... Would it be safe to assume its for the right turn signal?

Both D10 18 LGN and D9 18 T goes to the "Hazard Flasher Switch"

Attached is me highlighting these wires in the FSM

Turn Signals.jpg
 
okan74duster said:
Team,

Almost there before I start cutting stuff up.

Am I correct in my assumption that D10 18 LGN is the wire for when hazards are blinking, and D6 18 LGN is the left turn signal?

What is weird is that the D9 18 T seems to be the left hazard blinker (?) but I cant seem to find the D5 18 LGN... Would it be safe to assume its for the right turn signal?

Both D10 18 LGN and D9 18 T goes to the "Hazard Flasher Switch"

Attached is me highlighting these wires in the FSM
Click to expand...

Also theyre both tan in the connector itself!

IMG_3444.jpg
 
The tan and light green are the front left and right turn lamps circuit. They are branching off for the indicators I would guess.

Isn't your hazard switch part of the turn sig. switch? If it is dash mounted yeh, I can see what they did. See the hazard switch, visualize a separate switch such as on 67-69. What they are doing is that when the switch is active, the hazard flasher output, the brake light switch line, and the left and right front are all tied together. With the TS switch centered, the two rear turn lamps are already tied to the brake light switch. So the hazard flasher power now goes to all 4 lamps
 
67Dart273 said:
The tan and light green are the front left and right turn lamps circuit. They are branching off for the indicators I would guess.

Isn't your hazard switch part of the turn sig. switch? If it is dash mounted yeh, I can see what they did. See the hazard switch, visualize a separate switch such as on 67-69. What they are doing is that when the switch is active, the hazard flasher output, the brake light switch line, and the left and right front are all tied together. With the TS switch centered, the two rear turn lamps are already tied to the brake light switch. So the hazard flasher power now goes to all 4 lamps
Click to expand...
What's weird is that in the FSM it has a D5 18 LGN depicted on the printed circuit board, but mine as I stated above has two tan wires. And the FSM don't have any D5 18 LGN wires! I've been staring at this all day.

Tomorrow Ill chop these wires up
 
okan74duster said:
What's weird is that in the FSM it has a D5 18 LGN depicted on the printed circuit board, but mine as I stated above has two tan wires. And the FSM don't have any D5 18 LGN wires! I've been staring at this all day.

Tomorrow Ill chop these wires up
Click to expand...
Double check you are looking at the correct diagram
 
This is how the wires were on my 73 Duster.
This is the connector on the instrument cluster.


Fuel - Dark Blue
Dash lights - Orange
12V key on - Blue / White tracer
Turn signal LH - Lt Green
Turn signal RH - Tan
High beam - Red 18g
Brake - Blue/White tracer+ / Black 20g
Purple - Water temp
Grey - Oil light
 
sireland67 said:
This is how the wires were on my 73 Duster.
This is the connector on the instrument cluster.


Fuel - Dark Blue
Dash lights - Orange
12V key on - Blue / White tracer
Turn signal LH - Lt Green
Turn signal RH - Tan
High beam - Red 18g
Brake - Blue/White tracer+ / Black 20g
Purple - Water temp
Grey - Oil light
Click to expand...

So if I'm getting this correctly, I should splice the pink wire to the blue/white tracer? The instructions are somewhere ITT
 
okan74duster said:
So if I'm getting this correctly, I should splice the pink wire to the blue/white tracer? The instructions are somewhere ITT
Click to expand...
I am not sure of the gauges you are wiring, but the blue/white tracer on my car was 12V key on.
 
sireland67 said:
I am not sure of the gauges you are wiring, but the blue/white tracer on my car was 12V key on.
Click to expand...
It says;

"Power – Pink--Connect the power terminal to accessory +12V power from the fuse panel or vehicle wiring harness. Using a 5-amp fuse or an inline 5-amp fuse holder. This terminal should have power when the key is on or in accessory position. Use 18 AWG wire to ensure the system receives a sufficient power feed."

Is that what the 12v (blue w/ white tracer) is?

And if so, does it go blue w/ white tracer, then 5 amp fuse, then the pink wire? This fuse holder is what I have.

Fuse_A0408__96022.jpg
 
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Ok so I am being told that I need to ground the water sender, and the dash to the engine block.

I have no clue why the engine block. Based on my research MOPAR 318s have a bolt hole near the head to ground TO the engine block. Problem is, mine has a wire connected to the negative side of the battery and it also connects to the chassis.

Would that mean I can loosen that bolt and ground my dash to that same bolt/bolt hole?

Pic 2 is where I "grounded" my dash at the fuel sender housing as per the instructions. The grounding clip thing is pretty rusted out and worn out so I just cleaned up that spot you see encircled and wrapped a solid 18 gauge wire and secured it with tape.

That good? Or did I mess up?

IMG-3463.jpg


IMG-3459.jpg
 
I would NOT ground to the same point as the main large battery ground cable. Any convenient bolt into the heads / intake/ block will work. Coil mount, even a carb stud. Also look at the front of the pass side head. Those bolt holes are on the rear of the driver side head. Be carefull they are shallow, l"stick" them to check depth
 
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