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Dont pump the brakes, push the fluid out. Open the bleeder, have a helper push the petal to the floor, tighten the bleeder. Pumping the brakes just creates air in the system.

The system is not going to be completely full of fluid, because for brakes to work, fluid leaves the master cylinder, when the brake is pushed, filling the wheel cylinders, and calipers full of fluid, which stops the car. When the brake petal is released, the fluid travels back to the master...

I am wondering when you changed the rear wheel cylinders, that the diameter of the cylinders somehow changed.

Condensation.

X2 and bleed the brakes.

Brake issues are a pain, going thru the same thing, brakes fine, sit in the garage all winter, drove around the block, lost the brakes. Leaking from the back of the master cylinder, easy fix, yeah right. What the fu** master cylinder is on this thing, third time was a charm at NAPA, the PO put a...

Thanks, you just saved me the headache of making new lines, just order 3 of each and it cost a whopping $16 shipped.

Going thru the same thing, PO had the lines switched, even though the fittings were different sized. Need to make new brake lines to fix the issue.

I edited my typo

I used the entire brake assy of a 7.25 big bolt pattern on my 8.75 with Dr. Diff big bolt axles.

Costs have just gone up. I shipped two door panels from WV to NC USPS. Packaged as small as possible, it was $75.00

I used Dr. Diff axles and the complete drum set up off a 7.25 rear, fit nice.

Depends on the axles you ordered talk to the manufacture.

Yes small bolt pattern will not work, BBP direct bolt on using Dr. diff axles.

I used 7.25 complete brake set up off a 74 rear, on my 8.75 converted to BBP, Direct bolt on no modifications.

Never use them for hydralic pressure, they will fail. Oil pressure line line, ok because oil pressure is low pressure.

Classic Industries sells a nice stainless brake lines for A-bodys, I used them on my Duster, good fit.

Contact Dr. Diff

Soak the bearings in a tub of mineral spirits, it will soften the grease, then rinse with brake cleaner, they should be fine. On the rotors soak in vinegar or evapor-rust. Just buy new seals.

I would buy the pre-bent for the front, and use parts store Ni-Cu pre-flared lines, for the rear. Most likely you can do it this way with no flare tools or benders. The Ni-Cu lines come in various lengths, so careful planning with the lengths, just buy inverted flare couplers to screw them together.

I used the stainless steel ones from Classic Industries, they fit great, no leaks.

Good idea on replacing the brake lines, the old ones will break with no warning.

3/16 is standard mopar brake line size thru most years.

I made this diagram, when I did my 73 duster.

Call him on the phone, that is the only way I have been able to get ahold of him.

On the rear, you can use everything from the little 7.25 big bolt pattern rear. Just buy the axles from Dr. Diff.

My experience you have to match the pads with the rotors. I used cermic pads and slotted rotors on my 2012 Challenger R/T, it stopped it alot quicker than the factory brakes. Put standard rotors and ceramic brakes on my old jeep wrangler, within a few thousand miles you could not stop the jeep...

A/J have you ever drove a modern performance car with 4 wheel disk brakes? The rear disks make a huge improvement in stopping power, my new Challenger R/T has completely spoiled me. I also had the same mentality that drum brakes were fine on the rear until I bought that car.

I have the e-body drum brake parts still on a car if you need them.

I would do it on a gas grill, before sticking it in an oven. I used duplicolor cast iron paint on my exhaust manifolds, and they still look the same 5 years later, the paint has really held up well. But its all in the prep, I sandblasted them before painting, and rinsed the residue from...