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I have a few friends that have had really good luck with it, using Fitek and a Sniper system. The Fitek is easy to set up. The Holley Sniper system has alot more setting for custom programming. Both systems have worked good for them.

Check with them, they may sell it in a 8 pin.

Pentronix makes a rev limiter module, for 4 pin HEI conversion its about $70 I have two of them.

I used a professional Products SFI one on my 360 mag, it has been on there for at least 4 years now, no issues, slid right on the end of the crank, and the pulleys line up. I am actually getting ready to buy another one for my next build. Professional Products PowerForce Plus Harmonic Dampers 90012

X2 I do have have a stock 340 tray, and a new MP one in the box, if it really matters I can take a picture of the two. The slotted holes are to make it fit all small blocks.

Its cool that they mentioned the part numbers that they bought from Sox & Martin.

Check the float level in the carb. Had one that would cut out on a slant on left hand turns.

abdc is what to look at.

X2 I missed the blower on the initial post, tired last night. Did you boost reference the power valves? I gave you a link on how to do it in another thread. I have a whole box of 6-32 set screws if you need some, pm me so I do not forget. http://www.motorsportsvillage.com/modifycarb.html

Float level is incorrect, go to Holley's web site, it will have very good instructions on how to adjust it. This issue has nothing to do with jets.

Ouch, that stuff is expensive!!!!! I guess it would be ok for a weekend toy.

OK let start again, no budget. Aluminum heads, threw me off. This is as cheap as I will put a motor together. At least hot tank the block, oil pump pick up, heads, new cam bearings, that is a $150. Have the crank checked, it is only like $100 to turn and it will effect the life of the motor...

Why would you order rings and bearings before the machine work is done? You need to build a strong bottom end first. No need to buy aluminum heads, if you machine just put a fresh valve job in the parts you have. Spend your money now for good pistons, balance, crank turning etc. I rebuilt a...

Sounds like you are getting closer to your goal.

Makes sense to me, why the lock washers instead of flat unless the od was an issue?

What did you do to shim the lifter to solid? I assume this is removed after push rod length is determied.

FYI if you change to KB 107's they will require crank balancing. If the motor was just rebuilt put it back in after the repaint, buy a good convertor and drive it. This will tell you what you need / don't need to do.

$170 consider that free. The cylinder bores look to have some wear, so this engine has been run. I am with cracked, sounds like your ignition is causing you greif. I think when you pull the heads it will have less than 9.5 compression.

Double check the comp timing chain, I sent one back about a month ago for quality issues.

Somebody has to live close to him to help, at least to make sure it is not something simple like a fouled plug, timing, low fuel pressure etc. The best thing is to go buy the factory service manual, it will tell you step by step to diagnose the problem.