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Here's the TSB on servicing the Motorola transistor ignition factory-available to fleets on the '66 models.

This is from an article in Popular Science, December 1962, about transistor ignitions. It's even got A-body content! The price equates to about $810 (eight hundred and ten dollars) in today's money. The distributor cap trouble the author had was probably because his car had not yet had this...

Only the headlamps are brightened by putting in a relay harness. If you want the rest of the lights brighter/working better, check/improve the grounds at all four corners of the car, make sure the feed wires and all connections are in good condition, and do like this.

Nope, that's a set of Capaci-Points. First pair I've seen an actual photo of; here are pics of where I know this from. This 1977 book was in my high school library—it's a low-level car maintenance manual stuffed with promotional sorta-ads for relevant products of that time.

It has "Neato!" built right into the name.

HEI upgrade. Performance at least as good as most aftermarket systems, much better reliability, and much less costly.

Two real good reasons to disbelieve that claim: 1. There's no such thing as "DOT approved" — it sounds all official-like, but it is a meaningless phrase. US and Canadian vehicle safety regs do not work on an approval basis; the DOT does not approve equipment. Whoever claims a car part is "DOT...

That's a screamin' deal on a solid pair of lamps and harness. They're ECE (Europe/rest of the world), not DOT, so if that matters to you or the authorities where you live, that would be a dealbreaker. Otherwise, pounce and enjoy. Aim per VOL specs at aim page.

Where'd someone suggest that? Good headlamps put light where you need it and, on low beam, keep it out of other drivers' eyes. Lousy headlamps don't do one and/or the other of those things. Speaking as the guy who wrote the (literal 38,500-word) book on the subject of headlight glare: you're...

No. Wagner never made a sealed beam headlamp with any virtue other than cheap. That has pretty much always been Wagner Lighting's primary specialty—vehicle lighting that (more or less) meets the legal requirements at lowest cost. For quite some years, the Philips and GE halogen sealed beams...

Ooh, groan. That's not one I know of a source for. They're probably available somewhere, given that you can buy whole new underdash harnesses ($$$$), and maybe they're a generally-available type of connector, but I don't know the particulars. You might download the big cattledog from Terminal...

KITTY!!!

Spotted this Funkatronic (wasn't the brand name, but shouldacoulda been) Solid State IGNITION! system on eBay in 2008. Seller said it was worth buying for the box art alone. I already had more than enough miscellany in my collection, so I just yoinked the pic. Far-out, man! …which reminds me...

That's a wise idea. As others have stated, the factory-type '68 markers will look at home. Mount them so they're looking as close to straight-out as possible (not angled up or down). If I were in your shoes, though, I wouldn't put the '68 markers in. Instead I'd put in the fish-shaped ones...

A+ for A56, who put up my kind of detailed and accurate description of the relevant lighting specs and regs. Why sudden interest in side-on visibility of cars? Here's an image from a 2010 tech talk on the subject by one of America's rockstar vehicle lighting optical engineers, who started his...

Matter of fact, there is rigorous scrutiny, done under President Reagan's order for regulatory agencies to evaluate their regulations with extreme prejudice and axe the ones that weren't cost-effective. TLDR version: they are highly effective (and cost-effective) at reducing the likelihood of...

That's this widget.

My brain musta been unplugged when I said this part: Oops, derp, nope. Those free-run speed specs aren't at the drive pinion, they're armature speeds, before/upstream of the reduction gears.

Almost, but the fly in that ointment is your go-to starter: 2098500 was introduced for use on all '63 engines, and it was also used on '64-'69 170 Slant-6s. Its coils are the same relatively small size as the 3 series coils in the 2095150/2875560/3656650, but there are four of them. This...

There are cheaper ones out there, but my fave for good function and reliability/durability is this one.

New Old Stock real Chrysler module from Old Car Parts Northwest, or—better—the HEI upgrade .

Assuming you pick out good components, HEI is more solid-er than MSD (MSD hardware quality/reliability is not what it used to be)

What's the "PRO COMP" (notorious brand of fail-prone Chinese trinkets) thing doing in the pic?

Yes, read this and learn.

If you did this test without the cluster installed (with screws!) in the dashboard, you'll get all kinds of wonky electrical paths like this because the whole cluster gets its ground by the mount screws pressing it hard against the metal dashboard. If you want to test it uninstalled, you have to...

Sure, if you want so-called "remanufactured" garbage with a lifetime warranty that means you get to spend your lifetime exchanging dead parts until you finally give up, and if you're gullible enough to trust that when they say "55 amp" that's what you're getting.

Old Car Parts Northwest has shelves full of new old stock Chrysler alternators. You ought to be able to get whatever amperage rating you want, within a few amps. See here for detailed info on charging circuit upgrades. If you're actually driving this car, upgrading to a carefully-chosen...

Maybe you'll be the one for whom that company's name actually turns out to be true. Buying anything from Classic Industries is an efficient way of exchanging good money for bad parts. That's wrong. The green pilot lights on the dash should only ever flash with the turn signals. They aren't...

And then how long before you can get it to start again? This doesn't act like a dirty or faulty connection sounds a lot like a failing electrical component in your ignition system which works marginally, heats up quicker than it should, and then quits working at all til it cools back down...

Yepper. Two kinds of 7-inch (large round); one kind of 200mm (large rectangular); three kinds of 5¾" (small round), etc.