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Yes, I did end up using that harness and at the time of install the tech support was awesome. I spoke with them numerous times and always to the same person. I recommend this harness.

I have a new one I can send you.. Shoot me a conversation with your mailing address and I'll get it out to you.

Im curious why you say this? Only reason I ask is because I was looking at installing a Maxi-fuse when I rewired my car, but EZ-Wire said do not do that and reinstall the fusible link wire.

First question.. Did yours blow?? If so, have you figured out why? Second question.. Have you ever considered making your own? They sell fusible link wire in auto parts stores. Heck I have 2 different sizes of it, I would snip you off a length and mail it to you if you tell me the size you...

Go with the EZ harness or find a deal like Rob did... Best money I ever spent on my car.. Rob is 100% correct with what he said on how to do it. Oh and as mentioned Sean @ EZ is awesome and a huge help if you need it.

Thats also where I soldered my wire to. I used a soldering gun, took a bit to get it to heat up. I will mention Im not great at soldering so you may have better luck. However mine has not come loose so I must of cleaned it properly.

As mentioned the lights are grounded through the vehicles body. When I installed my EZ harness, I ran a separate ground wire. Like mentioned above, supply your own grounds. If I recall I created 3 main ground points in my car. I soldered a ground wire to the outside of the light socket and ran...

Soldering a wire will be perfect. I actually ran a ground wire to the rear of the car (just not that far) when I installed my new harness. It wasnt for that reason, but I'll do the soldering and run the ground up to that other one and go with that. Thanks for the suggestion!

About twice a summer, I have a ground issue with my brake lights. I have to remove the tail lights on my 71 Scamp, twist the bulb socket in the housing and reinstall the light. This freshens up the metal and creates a good ground again and everything works great for awhile. Just removing and...

I bought a factory back up camera for my Ram, since it didnt come with one. When I was installing it and got to the wiring section that is exactly how they showed to connect it, to the proper wire under the fuse box. Do you think they would include that clip though, NOPE! A lot of good that did...

I bought a Evans front harness and it was very good. However I ended up rewiring the entire car eventually with an EZ Wire Harness. Great quality and the fact I found one on Craigslist from someones project they never got to was even better considering it was half the cost.

I used an EZ harness. Sean is there tech guy and although hard to get thru to sometimes, he knows his stuff. No complaints with the harness at all. Make sure you lay it out and take your time. I had to add some additional wires for other options I had, but you just lay them in with the harness...

Mike, you should have a bunch of wires that run up your column, turn signal, hazard, horn, ignition, light for the shift indicator. I would look at the white flat connector just below your dash. On my car you could see that the large Red ignition wire melted thru the connector. It was fixed at...

Bring the starter with you to Ace Hardware (if you have one). They have a great assortment of metric nuts, and it would be easier to verify what fits your starter. Just a thought if you run out of options.

I dont have a pic handy Doug, but I used a similar product as Joe. Mine was made by Taylor, it looks almost identical.

Fuses are located under your dash, by your drivers side vent. However I would look at the fusable link. Which is located in your engine bay, near the bulk head connector.

The wires I've seen on the wire kits (Painless, EZ, etc...) are 12ga for the power windows and power locks.

The belt on there is a Gates. I agree with your choice of belts and hoses Karl. Both are good quality. Thanks Roy, I appear to have the same brackets as you and Karl. My belt looks kinked in one of my pics, Im going to have to take a closer look at that. I also need to lay a straight edge...

Bill, thanks for the input, the car is a 71, the engine is a 74 360, with aluminum water pump. Do you happen to have a vendor or part number for a belt, I wanted to pick up another for a spare, I could swap them out.

Yes, they line up.

So I'll assume I have it mounted correctly then since it looks just like yours. Thanks for the help Karl.

Yep, I agree here are a few more pics. Your also right about the thick washer.

My engine originally had A/C which I removed and found some non A/C brackets from a member. I've always mounted my Alternator like in the picture. Is it correct or should the Alternator be on the other side of the bracket?

I agree on the 100% confirmation and is needed. I thought it was just nice to have a second site to help out, that actually matched the first site.

Doing some googling and someone else had this meter and checked theirs. Last post in the link has their Ohm readings. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/95640/ohm-range-for-mopar-fuel-gauge-sending-units.html and here is another site that confirms the readings. Couple of...

Yes, Its a time delay relay.

I think I have 2 different bulk head connectors in the garage. Shoot me the numbers of the one you need and I'll check mine to see if it matches up.

Yep, I mounted mine to the steel under that in my 71 Scamp and no problems at all.

I had the NOX stuff on my 71 in that same location. It looks close to the one I removed from my car. It has to do with the emissions control. Basically, if your on the gas hard the drivers side fender mount turn signal will flash letting you know to let off the throttle.

Yes, it does come with that bushing. Just when you get it make sure its in there.. Otherwise it will be tough to get centered. I believe I paid that same price at the local parts store. It may be worth checking there first.