Alternator mounting

Electrical and Ignition

  1. straightlinespeed

    straightlinespeed Sometimes I pretend to be normal Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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    My engine originally had A/C which I removed and found some non A/C brackets from a member. I've always mounted my Alternator like in the picture. Is it correct or should the Alternator be on the other side of the bracket?

    View attachment IMG_20160312_170252164.jpg
     
  2. krazykuda

    krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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    That doesn't look right, the bracket goes in front, then the ear, then the spacer, the back ear, short spacer - and into the head...
     
  3. krazykuda

    krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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  4. krazykuda

    krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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  5. Sedanman

    Sedanman 67-9 Valiant specialist FABO Gold Member

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    They look the same to me. I think someone added that washer to the OP's large spacer because it wasn't long enough.
     
  6. straightlinespeed

    straightlinespeed Sometimes I pretend to be normal Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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  7. krazykuda

    krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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    That's what she said... :D
     
  8. krazykuda

    krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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  9. straightlinespeed

    straightlinespeed Sometimes I pretend to be normal Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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    So I'll assume I have it mounted correctly then since it looks just like yours. Thanks for the help Karl.
     
  10. krazykuda

    krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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    Yes. looks better...

    How do your pulleys line up?? They should be right on now...
     
  11. straightlinespeed

    straightlinespeed Sometimes I pretend to be normal Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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    Yes, they line up.
     
  12. pishta

    pishta I know I'm right....

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    Run it however it takes to get it lined up.
    I dont think you can get more original than this pic from E-Booger
    [​IMG]
     
  13. BillGrissom

    BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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    You guys are all out of control. The OP didn't bother to state the year or engine of his car. Both matter. I think the parts varied at least 3 times. Early alt brackets were totally different, then the flat brackets, then the aluminum water pump shifted everything forward 1".

    Post #6 finally shows the question concerns the later. Post #12 is for an earlier cast-iron water pump. I think the pulleys setups also varied between different power steering pumps and AC, which may have affected the alternator. Oh yeah, and we are also talking about small block engines.

    Regardless, if you can get V-belt pulleys aligned within 1/8" axially, it usually works. New serpentine belt are much less forgiving. Just yesterday I was trying to help a guy stranded near my house w/ a ~2000 Huyandai that threw a serp belt. We loosened the alternator, but the old belt was too short to slip on (wrong part or bad design?). By then the engine had cooled enough that I told him to just drive home 4 miles w/o the water pump turning.
     
  14. oldkimmer

    oldkimmer FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    ..............Don't use that cogged belt there garbage...........get a Top Cog belt....Kim...
     
  15. straightlinespeed

    straightlinespeed Sometimes I pretend to be normal Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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    Bill, thanks for the input, the car is a 71, the engine is a 74 360, with aluminum water pump.

    Do you happen to have a vendor or part number for a belt, I wanted to pick up another for a spare, I could swap them out.
     
  16. krazykuda

    krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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    I like Gates or Goodyear for belts and hoses...
     
  17. SGBARRACUDA

    SGBARRACUDA ROY FABO Gold Member

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  18. straightlinespeed

    straightlinespeed Sometimes I pretend to be normal Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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    The belt on there is a Gates. I agree with your choice of belts and hoses Karl. Both are good quality.

    Thanks Roy, I appear to have the same brackets as you and Karl. My belt looks kinked in one of my pics, Im going to have to take a closer look at that. I also need to lay a straight edge across the pulleys to double check.
     
  19. diymirage

    diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline

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    You could start by painting the engine bay body color :banghead:
     
  20. Mopar Tim

    Mopar Tim FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I was thinking that as well:banghead:
    :banghead:
     
  21. Oldmanmopar

    Oldmanmopar Going left turning right FABO Gold Member

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    This is the only one pictured that is correct with the split Bushing that slides in the rear boss on the alternator tightly. Prior pics are missing this bushing. The reason there was a need for the washer. Just a FYI
     

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  22. Oldmanmopar

    Oldmanmopar Going left turning right FABO Gold Member

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    Without Power Steering they can be mounted on the drivers side which eliminates wires on the motor using the power steering brackets. One wire gm alternator with built in regulator 100 amps one six inch wire for hook up. I use a positive battery post mounted to the frame . If you look the factory harness is still in place. Battery in trunk.
     

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  23. ScampMike

    ScampMike Despicable Damn Yankee

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    you're going to mount your alternator..? - whatever gets you through the night....
     
  24. diymirage

    diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline

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    I see what you mean now
    I seem to remember removing that bushing from an old alternator and "pressing" it into a new one once
     
  25. nm9stheham

    nm9stheham Well-Known Member

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    I strongly recommend AGAINST any Top Cog belt. I had 2 that would start to slip and not make ANY noise. Once they slipped a while and got warm, then would not hold even with gorilla level tension. Don't ask me why, but it drove me nuts for a few days trying to figure out what was going on. And that was just on a low RPM diesel pickup.

    I've raced single V belts running 600+ watts of or rally lights in night rallies, with nary a problem in 5000 racing miles, turning up to 8000 RPM with stock pullies and good standard Gates or Gooyear or NAPA Premium belts, but the 2 Top Cogs let me down badly. Bad ju ju....
     
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