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2nd on the 100%

Whats your overall endplay?

Just as a reference have you miked the thrust faces on this bearing set and compared them to another?

Bingo. Once asked the question to shave a big chamber J head enough to make compression on a 318 i decided to go with really tall 318 pistons and shave just enough to clean up the deck face on the head. Wild.

One thing I'd suggest is a different set of pistons. Something a bit more than just a stock replacement. A few years ago I built a 318 for a customer. The biggest thing on their mind was taking these 340 J heads they had and putting them on this 318...thing was the chamber size on the J heads...

I smell...sarcasm.

A rule of thumb on a new engine is about 5lbs of resistance for every rotating piece. The crank is 5 and each piston/ rod assembly should be 5 as well. It may vary a little but a fresh motor should be around 45. The key here is did you feel any binding or tight spots. This will reveal if...

You are right about the 5.2 pistons. The height is 1.77". With the rods, all 5.2 and 5.9 rods use pressed pins. So unless you have a press and a fixture for mounting the piston/rod a machine shop will have to mounth the pistons onto the rods...or you could get aftermarket full floaters.

i put the kb167s in a 318. they were nice they sat .010" in the hole. with head combo and gasket i was using it ran the compression at 9.7568:1. The guy i sold the engine to said he dynoed it and got descent numbers somewhere between 300 and 340 hp. they were real nice pistons.

the rod for the 3.9 should be the same

i think: 63cc = 9.19 65cc = 8.99 68cc = 8.71

I looked and some places dont even have a listing for it anymore. I know a guy down at the dealership here, I'll check with him tomorrow. If anyone can get them he can. Let me know if you still need them and I'll get you the best price I can.

are you using a points type distributor or an electronic one?

if it makes you feel any better. eagle makes all of mopar performance's cranks. you can see where "eagle" was ground off and the MP logo is stamped on.

did you round up on compression? seems a little high even if you were running a mopar composite .024 - .028 compressed gasket?

I'm building a mild 318. nothing fance. i've shaved my heads .010". can i just reuse my old pushrods? i dont really want to replace them. will this be an issue?

all 318 cranks are internally balanced. 360 are external. forged 340s are internal and 72 - 73 cast 340s are external. thanks for the advice guys, i'll be sending the assembly out at the end of the week.

Here's a question. I've got a 318 cast crank cut .010 and .010, im using eagle rods that are all weight matched and KB pistons that are all weight matched. I know the crank i'm using is an internal balance from the factory. should i rebalance the crank? If im only going to be running this engine...

it was the points. we had a dead set of points so my buddy bought himself an electronic distributor dropped it in and now it runs fine

My friend recently has his 340 rebuilt and has been running it for over a month now with no problems at all. Yesterday he noticed that if got on it ans gave it any amount of throttle whatsoever it would serge and cut out, then come back to life. Today he started it, it missed like crazy and when...

Anyone know where i can get the tool for installing intermediate shaft bushings?

my bad. 72 - 73 were the external one, but the rods on all 340s are floating. as far as i've seen they all have bushings in the small end.

No problem with the block. Whenever I get any machine work done I like to mock up my engine and check all the clearances before sending the rotating assembly back to the machine shop to be internally balanced. All 340 engines were internally balanced so as long as your damper and flywheel are...

to bore a 318 to a 340 would require and overbore of .130" the block you can do this on are the race blocks or the 340 rep block that come with a 3.900 rough bore.

i agree with moper on this one. that little plug that puts the oil thru the filter underneath the #5 main could be the problem. if this engine was rebuilt before by the first guy maybe he dipped it and forgot to replace it, as it could leak just froma good hot tanking.

it can done though. If you've got a complete donor vehicle and the time. Say you have a durango thats wrecked. take the engine, trans, computer and engine harness out of it. it's not that it can't be done. you just have to make a list of everything that needs to be done and decide if it's to...

also. the fit of the pistons is determined by the rod. It will have a bushing on he small end if its floating and no bushing if it's pressed. the pins for all small block pistons are the same diameter.

lets see.... 64-73 273, 318, 340 rods are floaters all 360 rods use pressed pins 73-up 318 rods use pressed pins

I say dont mill. If you really want to use the 340 heads get taller pistons and a thinner head gasket. Take about .010" off the heads to get the chambers down to 69cc, a piston that sits about .011" in the hole and mopar gaskets that compress .024"-.026" with a 4.060" bore and you'll get about...

whats the PN on that head gasket?