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What Denny says. This was a head scratcher for me also when I built my triangulated 4 link. My passenger side was lower but after I got the front squared with the t-bars it leveled out. But I have to say that yours looks a little extreme with the coilover jacked up that far and you’re still not...

19.15 in. Extended, 12.64 in. Collapsed. Strange. #: S5207

Added the Hellwig sway bar for a 73-76 A Body. Bolted up easy and luckily cleared my turbo hotside.

Yes I did. It ended up with more positive caster than the previous alignment but I don’t have the numbers in front of me.

@DustinsDuster

Yes counter sunk washers and short bolts secure the top of the shock mount to the factory upper shock mount hole. This is the bolt you leave a little loose at first when installing the shock mount. The other bolt and sleeve is the upper coil over mount. The sleeve part goes on the backside of...

Coilovers I used: High Performance Double Adjustable Custom Mount Coil Over Shock Absorber

Sent you a DM with the email I have.

I seem to recall mine had a bit of a gap also but not that bad and it mounted flush to the frame once the bolts were installed and torqued down. Make sure you leave that upper shock bolt a little loose also while fitting the shock mounts it does make a big difference. Contact their support if...

Yes, accepts factory spindle. They have different steering arms based on whether you use the older small ball joint spindle or large ball joint one.

I cut out the upper and lower rad support area and bent up a square tube that bolts between the two fenders. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/114bf130-866e-4d0b-98a9-088cd8541afc-jpeg.1715703783/

The Coilovers allow about 5.5” if I recall.

It’s removable

As she sits now except I've swapped out the front tires for some skinny BFG Radial TAs.

Control arms, coil-overs, brakes, etc...

Steering shaft and couplers setup. I got kind of creative on this part.

Engine bay shots...

Coil mount brackets install...

Here's my write-up, review and lots of pics on this front suspension. I installed it over the summer on my 65 Valiant and have been putting plenty of street miles on it. Let's get the FAQs over with first. Cost: - A Body Mopar Street Kit (K-Frame, Upper and Lower Control Arms, Steering Arms)...

And a pic of the trunk area after I finished it up.

I added an anti rollbar also. I made one pass at the track recently and it hooks good, goes straight, zero body roll and feels stable at speed.

It rides well on the street. I think the springs are a little too light for hitting the corners. They are 110lbs.

With back half of the car clear of everything I decided to clean it up and repaint. I put in a Rhodes sumped fuel cell that I built a box for.

Now that I have a few miles on this thing and nothing big has fallen off the car I thought I'd share pics of my triangulated 4 link I built over the summer. I used Del-Sphere Pivot joints from Spohn for the uppers and lowers axel side and polyurethane joints for the front lower link. No squeaks...

That’s what I’m afraid of. Too short. If it was longer than the Mopar then shortening my driveshaft wouldn’t be a big issue. Thanks

Thanks. I have a custom 3.5” alum driveshaft with 1350 yokes I had made. I’d like to reuse it with the Ford 9” if possible.

I’m considering a 9” Ford rear, have all of my dimensions calculated but am struggling to find the length of the yoke mount vs my 8 3/4 to understand if my driveshaft will fit or will be too short or too long. Anybody who has done this swap know? I’m looking for the Ford 9” equivalent of (C) in...

Just to chime in, I bought the 16:1 PST and the only issue was that it was hard to get off center but after a few miles it loosened up and now responds great. I’m very happy with it.

I run the PST 16:1 box in my 65 Valiant. It’s more of a straight line car and has skinnies but aside from turning at a dead stop it’s not too difficult and it gets driven on the street plenty.

I have a total of 10 miles on mine before I had to pull the engine. I tried backing off the adjuster also (it wouldn't go more than a 1/4 turn, maybe 1/2) and that seemed to make a very small difference. Maybe I'll send it back since the engine is out and the box is easy to access at the moment...