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The longest ones go on alt. Bracket

any switch from a ford /from the 80's should work just pull out the rubber cover on the inside of the switch there will be a screw you can adjust ,wound you install it at the compressor or splice the line near the evaporator

you could install a adjustable low pressure switch / like everyone else uses and set the desired temp

check for lower hose sucking shut when engine rpm raise

some of the factory trucks run the smaller upper pully with a/c but not alum.

the hoses will leak over time you need the barrier wall type

like someone has already said check timing at all rpms for advancement., it looks like your fans are only cooling the area directly in front of them and the rest of rad is not getting cooled.

its a /6 ?

did you make sure the fan belt is not loose and slipping?

slam on the brakes at 60 and see how much those rubber mounts hold the engine back when its going forward, and those pancake mounts break all the time on the early k frames

check and see how close the fan blade is to hiting the crank pully before you pull it off you may need to cut down your spacer (turn it in a lathe to get the desired depth )

looking at your pics it appears only about a 1/3 of your rad is working ,you need a full shroud behind the radiator ! that electric fan wont cool a lawnmower

one thing to check would be ign timing just because you turned the dist doesn't mean the timing is advancing the weights could be rusted and not moving, is yours bored .060 over because mine would heat up really fast in the winter but in a truck with a large radiator it would run 200 in...

I did put one in my aspen when racing.

check lower hose for sucking shut might be missing spring.

you could take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and they will tell you if clogged when tested.

don't use a thermostat if you plug the bypass ,when its cold and thermostat is closed your heater core will take full pressure unless you keep the heater control valve closed and in the winter I would want as much heat as fast as I could get it, and i don't like changing out blown cores, just a...

the electric fans are not being use as designed there for failure , they were designed to work on ac condensers with 2 or more mounted inside a full radiator shroud /some sales person got a bright idea on how to make money off people. 2 12 " fans will drop the condenser 200degs in 20 seconds...

take a pair of vise grips and block off one of the heater hoses then retry it could have heated air entering the evaporator core this will raise the low side pressure, also is the low side line at compressor cold?

just like my 73 duster with factory ac / and similar to a lot of small cars from 64 up to 76,

if your using 134 about 2.25lbs/r12 3.00lbs does it have stock compressor/aftermarket could change about 1/2 lb.

I would switch to a 7 blade /without the fan clutch ,some clutches don't come on until 220deg.or replace it with a heavy duty truck types.

does it have factory a/c ? you might be missing vacuum ball/reservoir on pass side inner fender

I used a 7 blade on my 360 stock car with stock pulleys turning 7200 rpm for 45mins at a time for 5 years with to problems ,no loosing of the fan blades or stock water pump issues.