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Good luck getting the pipe plug out, after that many years its most likely seized up pretty good. It wouldnt hurt anything to just leave the pushrod in there, that way you'll know where it is if you should ever decide to go back with a mechanical pump. Yes put the plug back in or there will be...

Oh wait....I have the 590 cam in mine NOT the 509, damn dyslexia

Sounds close to mine 440 +.030 12.5 pistons 1.6 rockers OOTB RPMs 750 Holley that flows 930 My wildest uneducated guess on a good air day with fresh valve springs would be 50 HP less than that.

Just to throw something in.....440s dont have very good oil drain back in the heads and the way they oil the rockers....theres alot of oil up in the heads.

I have never owned one, I dont like the sound they make when you shut the motor down.

My bracket car had 906s with manley high flow valves, no port work and a rocker stand on one broke in the middle of a points season, needed heads quick so I got a set of the very first batch of the RPMs made. I changed valve springs, put em on and had to make new push rods, otherwise....it ran...

Motors is motors, they all do the same thing, all are held together with nuts and bolts, the 426 is only 426 cubic inches, a 440 is bigger and a 400 is smaller, cubic inch wise.

I vote for the single 4 bbl setup, using just factory mopar parts/solid cam you can easily overpower the car, let the big bore/short stroke (torque) do all the dirty work for you...it will.

"Semi fenderwells" you mean like these? http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714803157&stc=1&d=1427212669

I think I ran mine at 34 with a crank trigger, 5:13 gear, powerglide, 1/8th mile track, deadly consistant bracket car.

My 1969 block, crank and factory rods and HEAVY TRW pistons ran for years on the strip, shifted at 6200, I move up to Eagle rods and alum. pistons. It was just a matter of time before metal fatigue snuck in so I upgraded to lessen the chance of breakage. If I remember right those factory rods...

Im goin with the RPM, its operating range is more suited for streetability....for my style of driving at least. Will be selling my Team G when I get around to it.

I have seen Tejas's blue Duster in person....excellent worksmanship, every little small detail, beautiful car !!!

I have Hooker fenderwells, nice for a racecar but wouldnt want them for a streetcar but thats looking like what Im gonna end up with for street use. The cars previous owners removed the inner fenders so fit is no problem at all LOL, easy access to everything and literally can toss em on from top...

I think Summit has pages of air cleaner bases, all kinds of drop bases to choose from.

I have a ton of preload dialed into the left front just to keep it level on launch, 70% of the weight is on the front to keep lift at a minimum, travel limiters at about 2 inches, still would do wheelies with that convertor in it. A level launch with wheels on the ground would be best, if its...

My money is on the torque convertor, all .75 cents worth !!!

I have the slant bars on my cuda with 440/glide, no inner fenders, batteries in the trunk, alum heads/intake etc etc. I am putting the car on the street after being a track car for the last 20 plus years, I am sure that during that time it has sat on the bars/springs at least 98% of the time...

I have been running the same 1969 block .030 over since the mid 70s, all drag strip, easily over 1,000 passes, same motor in two different cars, 5.30s to 6.60s 1/8th and 1/4, it just wont quit. I will however not build this motor back up again, too many heli coils in the head bolt holes, I have...

The water jackets are the MAIN difference, I would prefer the older blocks but with a good machine shop the difference is tiny, now if your gonna O-ring it and go blown alky or nitro then.....older for sure LOL.

Two places up here in Arlington Texas would be Arlington Automotive Machine Shop and Reher & Morrison, I dont have any numbers handy but could dig em up or the internet can dig em up for you quicker.

Think of the block as a foundation for a house, if its crooked the doors aint gonna shut right !!!!!!

I am building a new 440 for the street and the Performer RPM is in my plans, I want the motor/power peaked at around 5,000-5,500 ish. I have a 1 inch spacer and can never remember which to use with a dual plane, 4 hole or single hole, think mine is a 4 hole so will try it with the spacer then...

Thats about what I am building all the way down to the ignition, I ordered a new MSD 6 box then changed my mind and am goin to try the Skip White HEI distributor with an MSD Blaster 2 coil. Already have the RPM heads, will be going to the dual plane RPM intake, looks like it will be perfect in...

I run Mobil 1 from day one, hell I use it for assembly lube !!!

Probably to see which heads were on it, casting #s are inside.

You wouldnt need any shims until after the motor has been built/rebuilt and or heads surfaced, block decked etc etc. At that point developing push rod length is the last thing to do before setting up the rocker arm geometry. One of these days I will post a pic of how to vastly improve oil flow...

I use Mobil 1, 15/50 with the Fram HP1 oil filter, mine idles @ 80 PSI and goes to 100 PSI in like less than a second, never any failures, have seen lesser/cheaper filters blow off on the starting line on BB mopars. Wix would be my second choice.

I have always broke mine in on the oil I intend to run, Mobil 1, by the time I have the valves set and its loaded on the trailer its broke in.

Mine is barely worthy after seeing some of these...nice cars people!!!!