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I set the wheel tire combo in the wheel well where I want it and then I measure from center of tunnel to each rim and use those measurements, or just take off equal amounts and hope the offset is correct, I don't do it that way. the pinion yoke needs to be center in the tunnel

don't worry about it, it will stop when the fluid gets low enough, 1/2 quart low is what I have usually seen, I tapped the vent hole and plugged it and moved the vent to the rear top of the case but this requires you to take the trans apart to do it, its not really an overheating issue

I make them out of round tube and 2x3 square tube, the tube way, I make a card board template and draw it on the 3" side then cut it out with a band saw, I usually tig everything

this is a picture of how I weld the ends on, this is a nine inch housing that I build but its the same for an 8.75, this rear does not have the tube back brace I mentioned above because this is a ladder bar housing, I have solid bushings in the third member instead of bearings, same thing out on...

you need to weld the ends on with a jig that centers the housing ends with the bearings on the third member, I back brace with a tube and land the brace on the rear end tubes right before the inner most u-bolt, I will try and get you a picture tonight

I run red line synthetic heavy shockproof, but my car see's a lot of abuse on the street and the track http://www.summitracing.com/parts/red-58204

I use a 1/4 inch bung and pipe plug, I just think the housing is to thin to tap

8.25 or 8.75?

I buy everything from John cope, www.coperacingtrans.com

damn dude!!! How the hell does your thumb bend like that?? LOl, that flex plate looks pretty fucked up though.

I did not narrow the rear at all, stock width rear, mini tubbed to the frame and use 15x12 with 6.5 backspace and 28x14.5-15 Hoosier quick time pro's, tread width is 12", car in my signature is it

This is close to the worst advice I have ever seen