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Seen at a local show.

Find another running slant 6, there must be someone in your area that is swapping a 6 for an 8.

I had a rod bolt nut back out on me and do that. The engine was rebuilt be National Cylinder Head Exchange and it was nocking really bad when I bought the car. It ran for about 30 seconds in my custody and bang. I found one rod bolt bent and still connected, the other was intact separated...

It seems to me that the more volume in the chamber, the more horsepower you can make. So the lower the compression the better. You want to maximize the unit air charge.

How long is the bypass hose ?

That makes sense, but the power is much reduced at 1800. for 30kw you would need at a minimum 30kw/746 = ~40 hp, which sounds reasonable. Probably need at least 60hp to cover surges and generator efficiency.

It has to run at 3600 rpm to get 60hz output.

I use shell rotella T6 15w40. cheap at walmart and synthetic with zinc.

Did you see this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TD9NR7R/?tag=fabo03-20

would the Hei module have worked better if you flipped it over ? So the connectors are pointing toward the coil.

Don't forget to open up your spark plug gaps. :)

try here 66 1966 Dodge Dart Engine Mount - Engine Mechanical - DEA, Pioneer Cables, Westar, Front, Front Left, Front Right - PartsGeek

knowing Fiat it will be a 3 cylinder

I put a 69 /6 in a 81 Mirada,

Welcome back to America :) A good dose of carb medic in that pcv valve may help your idle also.

Was at the Cops and Cars show in OViedo FLorida

I tried that, it broke my lawnmower gunked up valves and bent the push rods.

I little carb medic sprayed in the bowl vents sometimes does wonders.

Thermostats keep an engine from running too cold, your system may not have had enough cooling power to get the temperature down to 160 until it got cold outside. so put a 180 in it and it should be fine. I don't think you need the cardboard.

I would check your rim temperatures after a long drive. Hot rims could indicate you have a bearing issue or rubbing brakes.

Two easy upgrades Pertronix distributor module upgrade. Make sure you do not have washers on your spark plugs ( assuming you still have drool tubes )

Find TDC on cylinder 1 by removing the spark plug and turning the engine til it stops hissing at you then stick a pencil in there and turn back and forth to find tdc, and check to see if the timing mark on the balancer lines up with Zero on the the timing scale. If it doesn't make a new mark...

should be easy enough to find tdc of cylinder 1 and then look at the mark

Could the bushings/bearings be bad in the distributor ?

couple of thoughts: Check to make sure the distributor cap has no cracks in it. Plug all vacuum lines and check for leaks. Spray a healthy amount of carb medic in the Carb bowl while running. Good luck

I had a new-ish National cylinder head exchange engine throw a rod out the side of the block. My assumption, having found a rod bolt and nut in the pan, was they didn't torque it at all and it backed off.

Didn't they also drop the compression ratio's in 72 on the slants ?

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/shell-rotella-5w40-full-synthetic-oil-1-gal Rottella synthestic is pretty cheap at tractor supply $5 per quart

FYI http://www.slantsix.org/articles/Modern_Engine_Oils.htm

After driving check the rims for excessive heat. Would indicate dragging brakes Jack the car up and check to see if the wheels spin easily. Look for uneven tread wear.