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I would not be so quick to give up. It's not horribly difficult. Fixing yours is but far the more cost effective way to repair. Plus if you do find another wheel, given it's age, it have the very same problem.

Yes, you definitely can and as you suggest it may save you some labor.

I've tried many things to remove that ring and like external snap ring pliers but they have to be of a heavy duty variety. anything wedged in the opening works. you don't have to open it up much for it to come off. Main thing is to not damage the horn contact ring which is easy to do. Others...

Yes, to both your questions. The steering wheel and Steering shaft are indexed, or so I remember, and should only go on one way. With the front wheels straight ahead, typically that is with one of the steering wheels spokes pointed down at the 6:oclock position. The looped, round steel retaining...

No, looking at the backside of the steering wheel you have not lost an insulating part. The insulation I referred to in an earlier post is that shriveled up, white looking crud, under the looped round steel retaining ring. Either enough of that is missing and allowing that looped retaining ring...

Yes, to you order of assembly and logical thought process for isolating the trouble spot. Also true, that there is no way you can get shocked. Let us all know how it goes.

No wiring does not work that way. Only "hot" is at the relay. Wiring to column, copper wheel thingy, horn switch attached to steering wheel face are all an open ground. Taking the system to ground honks horn. Yes to helping isolate the problem area based on which component triggers it. Mine is a...

Yes, to question regarding will state of assembly help you isolate area of problem. No to wiring working that way. Horn is an open ground. Only "hot" wire is at the relay itself. Entire column wiring/switches are an open ground that must be completed. Only single wire I'm aware of is the one...

You don't have to tell me about the heat ! In rereading the thread a question came to mind. You mentioned when reassembling that the horn starts making it's constant noise. Question is with everything in steering column assembled but no steering wheel installed is horn quiet? If Yes does putting...

@eekvonzipper - Better picture clearly shows a flat disc. Thanks for the clarification and disregard what I said as it was based on erroneous perceptions. @VanceC - any luck diagnosing your horn troubles?

@eekvonzipper - your current "grant" aftermarket horn contact disk is flat I agree. but the factory one you posted a pic of earlier was not.

Agree with 67Dart273. just follow the steering column from wheel end towards firewall and your bound to see the plug.

Another diagnostic idea for VanceC. Separate the steering column wiring connector where it plugs into the main harness. Insert a wire/spade? terminal into the space with the black wire on the harness connector. Touch the other end of inserted wire to ground to honk horn. This will tell you all...

@eekvonzipper - To me it appears you're copper ring was installed upside down. The raised area around the center (as pictured) should be against the backside of the steering wheel and not facing the turn signal switch mechanism. Easy to see why you had an interference/touching problem. After...

I agree with slantsix64. Common for folks to change out the copper ring on the back side of the steering wheel. When you remove the retaining ring/canceller (round steel loop looking thing) normally the "rubber" as he called it (really more like a hard silicone that's gray in color) between the...

After checking, I realize I don't have the terminal housings you need, Just the terminals.

I have made it a point to buy the Standard CG7 & 8 because they have fit all the Mopar housings/connectors I've put them in. I'm sure the Packard connectors are fine also.

I may have the shells also. How many of each do you need? as far as I know the shells/housings are not being remade.

How many are you looking for of each (M &F)? I have a few extras in brass. A lot of the "new" replacements are a tin alloy and no longer brass. The Male is a #CG8 and the Female is #CG7 in Standard Motor Parts catalog.

If your asking about a dash mounted key switch I'd say yes. Once ignition is removed you'll see a hole in the threaded collar of the switch. In this hole you should see a stud/pin in this hole. Compressing/collapsing this pin should release the tumbler. Without the key you will probably have to...

I agree with 65 dartman on his advice. However since the footwell light is being turned on the door switch is likely OK. Recently had this come up on a clunker I revived and that was that the overhead domelight requires a two pin bulb (officially a #1004). In this instance someone had put in a...

Replacement is an individual choice at this point since it sounds like it is still working. If show car I'd lean towards yes since sulphuric acid in either liquid of gas form can do a lot of damage to nice paint.

Turning black is an indication that the sulphuric acid inside the battery is leaking out of the shell (as a gas) very near the battery post.

I tend to think its the brake light switch. You should only have continuity (or 12V) on one side of the switch when the brake pedal is at it's normal non depressed position. I'd suggest readjusting the switch, rotating the switch plunger against it's mating contact as they can lose continuity...

Recently I had the no headlight experience in a field car I resurrected. Lights had been working fine and simply quit. It turned out to be the Hi/Low dimmer switch. All headlight power (but not park light function) from the dash switch is routed to it first before it goes out the bulkhead...

It is odd for so many problems to just appear out of the blue. Have you done any wiring work recently? Has the car been painted recently?(new paint often interrupts grounds). The other thing that comes to mind is that It can be very difficult to "see" a defective turn signal switch. If these...

On mopars with the direct wired ammeter a simple check is to just remove the positive battery cable from the battery while the car is running. If it dies you have a charging problem. If it doesn't your charging system is producing output.

For a true restoration I would not consider these. However I've installed GM single wire alternators on other Chrysler cars which have had high amp draw accessories like stereos installed. To me this is not about right or wrong nor good and bad. All components, regardless of manufacturer, have...