Search results for query: *

The only times your battery is going to leak fluid is when it's over charging or over filled ,or on really really rough road

Those outside ( round ) lights are back up lights .Everything else happens in the rectangular section .To change it to what you are proposing would be difficult and probably require a new wire harness and all sorts of rewiring in the switches

Well,that's not exactly true. It will start but as soon as you let off on the key it won't run. This is a classic sign of resistor failure

I've had a few fail over the years.What I discovered early on before I really knew anything about how they work is that if you hold the key between the run position and the start position it will run so I got off the road that way. I always carry a spare in all my cars and even showed my wife...

Could be a bad wire from the coil to the dist . or,if it's points the points or condenser could be bad or out of adjustment If it's points turn on the key to run and open & close the points with a screwdriver while holding the coil wire that goes into the center of the dist cap about 1/4 inch...

Give the car a proper tune up before you try to figure it out.Chances are the tune up will make it right.

I'm certain on the plate light but the switch ? here is a photo of the 66 valiant switch and it has a part number on the side that reads 2770377

It's a 1966 Valiant license plate light and a 66 wiper switch

I guess you make a brush holder that would contact the shaft inside the bottom or top of the outer tube.It would give you ground as long as the generator brushes stayed in contact with the shaft.That's the only way I can see grounding that shaft. this would act like the slip rings in an...

Starter relay ? Short it with a screw driver from the big terminal over to the smaller ones with the key in the run position and see if this starts the car.If it does replace the relay

This is how I do old motorcycle wire harness' . It's not all that hard to do and if you want to keep the color code you can find enough good wire in the original harness to pigtail it on the ends of each wire so it appears to be original and you can use the factory service manual wire diagrams...

it is a ground wire that goes to the body behind the cardboard side plates down by the floor under the dash on my 65 Valiant if that helps.

looks to me you just need to grind a little off the bottom of the shaft where it fits into the gear. A small block dist is a small block dist 273-up

Napa has them but they cost something like 60 bucks. I passed when the guy told me the price and made due with a used one .

I run the mechanical regulators in both my 65 Valiant wagon and my 66 Valiant Convertible.Been running this type pretty much since I started driving Valiants in 1974. Yes, they fluctuate some at idle ,it's normal. I have had better luck with them than the aftermarket solid state things .

probably the 12v side of the ballast resistor

Here is a visual the cut (yellow,red,and black go to the cut wires in the harness and it all just plugs together