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I'm in north Georgia. I think I tracked it down to bad ground battery cable. Tightened it really tight started it up and everything works as it should. I will need to get a different kind of negative cable. So hopefully I'm done with this.

When I was doing all this mess. After it lost power after I turned on the headlight switch for the first time I was able to jiggle the negative battery cable around the terminal and hit a spot where I saw the dome light come on. I did my "re-test" by pulling the headlight switch on and the dome...

I went to Radio Shack to get the resistors to test the gauges but they only had 1/2 watt and 10ohm and 22ohm. Will that still work? But today I thought I was done. I had everything working the way it should and I thought that was the end of it. I went over and tried one of the other two original...

I'm going today at least try the gauge test today if I can find a radio shack still open. They're all out of business here. I found two more original voltage limiters off of two clusters I have for my 73 charger. Now I have 2 solid state limiters and 3 original limiters. Out of they all can't be...

It is the IVR4 limiter. I cannot even see that led because it is so small and so up in the dash. The limiter is plugged into the gauge cluster board just as the original was. I was trying to make sure I didn't put it in backwards but it only goes in one way. So whatever way the way the factory...

I'm about to give up on it. It's taking up too much of my time. I at least wanted to get the gauges working so I could drive it around the block every once and awhile. The car isn't worth sending to a shop to have it professionally diagnosed. I'm afraid I don't have the knowledge to test it but...

I have my voltmeter today but didn't know what to test. I tested voltage at the temp switch and it's less than a volt. I've got the rte solid state regulator in and the voltage at the ign terminal is 11.65. My battery is at 12.40. I tried an original used regulator I had and probed the temp...

I found my RTE voltage limiter along with another temp and fuel gauge in my garage today. So I looked at the limiter that I currently have on the instrument cluster installed in the car and it's the one Instrument Specialties converted to solid state. So I swapped out the limiter today with the...

I've been thinking about this upgrade for my 65 Valiant 170 since I've replaced the wiring harness a few years ago. I bought a new engine/light harness from Year One and it was the original type that used points. I currently have a points distributor in my 170 but it's been sitting outside over...

I think I actually got the instrument voltage regulator from RTE. I think it's converted to a solid state voltage limiter and it has the red led in it. You can't hardly see it anyway on the back of the dash so it doesn't really help me. I looked through my receipts and I believe the fuel gauge...

I had a problem with my fuel gauge going all the way up when I turned the headlight switch on. It was recommended that I add a better ground to the instrument cluster. Today I removed the instrument cluster and verified all the screws on the back were tight. I then made a ground wire that a ran...

I call instrument specialties to get some tech help on the issue. I asked him if the circuit board could be the issue. He said he doubted it would be in the circuit board. That it seems it's in the wiring. That's all they really told me. I know the cluster is grounded to the frame. Do I just...

I just had my temp, fuel gauge, and voltage limiter redone by Instrument Specialties about a year ago. Also the speedometer and the ammeter was replaced with an NOS they supplied. I also have changed the dash harness with one from Year One probably been two years on that. The engine...

How would you tie in the vacuum bypass valve that sits in the water pump housing? Or would you plug it up too? I replaced it with a new one when I put the motor in the car. It ties in with the OSAC valve too. I read the description and operation of it in the factory service manual and it seems...

I had all the vacuum lines hooked up according to the factory service manual eventhough I'm using a Edelbrock 600. Should I just run the vacuum hose from the vacuum advance to the carburetor and plug up the vacuum bypass valve in the water pump housing and the OSAC valve?

Yeah I'm not 100% sure what all adjustments he did except, he did unplug the hose going to the vacuum advance, adjusted the timing, and mixture. It ran better than it did when I took it to a supposed Mopar specialist shop who spent two days with it. In fact it ran better than it ever has since...

He's from a pretty well known racing family in the area so he's pretty good. He told me about that OSAC valve system and that's why he unhooked it. He said they never worked very well even when the cars were new. I had the osac and the vacuum bypass valve hooked up just like the factory service...

So I noticed something on my 73 Charger 400-4bbl when the mechanic came to my house to adjust timing and carb. He disconnected the vacuum advance and left it disconnected. It made a world of difference in how the car drives and performs. There was no hesitation and you could floor it without it...

No the harness has been on almost a year now. The last time I started the car was probably about 4 months ago and everything was working as it should. So it's something that just happened sitting outside.

This is something that has happened with the car just sitting outside. I haven't had a battery for it in a few months. But when I tried it a few months ago everything was working the way it should. I know there is an extra unused connection on the new headlight switch. Should I make it a ground...

On my 65 valiant when I turn on the headlights my temp and fuel gauge go to full. If I turn off the lights while running the gauges read correct. I've had these gauges redone twice by instrument specialties. Plus I added a new headlight switch within the last year. I also bought the updated...

I was over there today to some work on my 86 Reliant and I started the Valiant up and let it run the whole time I was working on it. The ammeter seemed to settle in the middle after probably 30 mins. So definitely if driving this car a good many miles away it maybe wise to bring an extra battery...

I checked the battery before I swapped out the regulator and it was 12.06 volts. I was concerned the alternator was overcharging when I saw the ammeter fluctuate to c when I gave it even slight acceleration. Is the ammeter always suppose to be right in the middle?

So my mechanic told me my alternator was charging but not engugh at idle. It was 11.70 volts. He went through and checked all the wires, I swapped out the alternator and it still was at 11.70. He told me the regulator could be bad. I bought a new one from Vans Auto and installed it today. Now...

Well I had the mechanic recheck the voltage after I swapped alternators out again. I also removed the voltage regulator and sanded down to bare metal the mounting bolt areas. I made sure the battery was charged and the cables tightened. It still only put out about 11.80 volts and when the idle...

So what should I suspect? Do I need to swap out the voltage regulator? Should I get one of the OEM like ones from Year One or just warranty out the aftermarket one at the parts store? Where could I hook up my voltmeter so that it shows 13-14 volts? Does it show that when you probe the battery...

I've got my 65 Valiant 170 running pretty good. I had a good mechanic come over and tune it and we actually got it to where we could at least drive around the neighborhood. Got it up to around 50-60mph and it was doing good. It seems to run good now. He says it needed valve stem seals from...

We actually drove this 65 valiant 170 down the road yesterday. It was having stumbling issues. A mechanic came and adjusted the points and reinstalled the distributor. Then advanced the timing. It did pretty good down the road we only raised it up to 45-50 mph because it was a neighborhood. But...

Where can you get a good set of ignition wires with the spark plug hole covers on the end? Every set of wires I see for sale besides the NOS Mopar does not have the cover made onto it? I don't have any left so I can't transfer them over. Is there any aftermarket or high performance wire that...

Cool, thanks for the helpful pictures. It's amazing how many times I installed and removed and reinstalled the new harness. I could never figure out how they used the looms at the top of the instrument cluster hole because I didn't know the factory routing to begin with. As soon as I followed...