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This is a great point to make. Everyone gets so caught up in final drive ratio, but the difference between gears is what can really make driving fun. It's important to look at the ratios as a whole rather than just 5th gear alone. The Science Behind Gear Splitting with Gear Vendors...

Looks like Doug Nash.

That is for an LS1 T56. I think the LT1 version is different? Quick Draw makes an LS1 T56 bellhousing for small block Mopar, but says it's only good for '98-'02 versions of the transmission. I'd guess the Quick Time model is similar. Quick Draw Brand Mopar to T56 Bellhousing

These might be of some assistance: Reduce A-Body Transmission Conversion Hassles With A Brand New Pedal Assembly From American Powertrain - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech...

You can use a calculator to figure out what your RPM will be at cruising speed. This one has the 30% overdrive calculated into it: Engine RPM Calculator | Spicer Parts

The Brazen Charger over on Mopar Connection has an A41. It gives you a 30% overdrive so, at highway speeds, your 4.10 gears cruise along like they're a set of 2.87's. Installation pictures here...

Or it could be a D13 car with a 3 speed. Plenty of 340 cars out there that were 3 speeds originally and switched to 4 gears sometime down the line.

I just went 4 speed. It ended up costing me right around $1,200 to get all the parts.

This topic has already been covered pretty extensively. The search function works well: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=51738 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=61049 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=80325...

The slip yoke tailshaft was introduced in 1966. The B/C-body versions used the 30 spline output shaft, which is the same as the 727. The A-body versions used 26 spline output shaft, which is the same as the 904. In 1967, 383 Darts and Barracudas ordered with a four speed got the 30 spline output...

You won't have to do much to an 833 to get it to hold up to 400 hp. That's a pretty tough transmission to break, especially on a street car. $700 sounds pretty high for the setup though. $500-$550 would be a little more reasonable.

Is your engine internally or externally balanced?

What is the rest of your drivetrain setup like? The 833 O/D's aren't known for their strength. I think Passon Performance has everything you need to beef it up though if you're going to be turning quite a bit or horsepower through it. It won't be too cheap though.

Mechanical is my personal preference. Pretty hard for a mechanical linkage to fail. Hydraulic could fail a lot more ways than mechanical could.

Which B-body shifter did you get? There is a '70 non-console, a '70 console, and a '71-'74. You can get new rods from Brewer's Performance for $140, or you can make your own if you can find some donor rods to cut up. Somewhere around here there is a thread about putting pistol grips in A-bodies.

You can make an adapter to get the shifter in the A-body location on the truck transmission, then use A-body linkage. That would not be too costly, although you would still be left with a fairly wimpy transmission and you would have to get a shorter driveshaft. Changing the O/D to close-ratio...

833 O/D's are not known for their strength. They were never meant to be put behind high horsepower cars because they didn't come out until the mid-'70's. I would think the 8.75 would be alright unless you have slicks or are somehow getting some really good traction.

I'm almost positive it's a GM truck 833 O/D. That's why the 10 spline input shaft and the weird looking tailhousing.

Wow, that is a weird one. I would also guess it's a OD because of the 5.125" IBR. Looks like a severe duty input shaft, not 23 spline anyway. Looks to be even coarser than 18 spline. The tailshaft looks A-body-ish, but slightly different. Almost definitely not a passenger car application I would...

Here are a few old threads. Search "hydraulic". http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=33640 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=40229

I believe the change from 26 spline to 29 spline for 833's was late '66, so your '67 4 speed could have been put together with a leftover 26 spline shaft. That would explain why the 904 26 spline yoke fits.

Yes, the truck OD's have B/E mounting pads. To get the A-body OD into the E-body, you will either need a longer output shaft and tail housing or you could make some kind of adapter to get the A-body shifter location back to the E-body location. In the end it would probably be 100 times easier...

Here's an older thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=33640 I believe the cross member is the same. The good thing is you don't have to go looking for another driveshaft. But, you will probably have to get the 727/833 slip yoke (unless your 833 is one of the lesser...

For the hydraulic clutch: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=33640 I don't think a 5 speed would be an easier setup. Custom trans mount and driveshaft would be needed among other things. Plenty of places sell humps. Year One, Paddock, Goodmark, AMD, etc. There are 2 types...

The seller is not sure what it came out of, but I'm thinking maybe GM because of the mounting bracket that is with it in the picture I posted earlier. Here are 2 pics of GM version 833's with a mounting bracket that looks similar.

One more bump for the evening crowd.

Ok, that's what I figured but I found this one for sale for $60 and didn't know if it was a steal of a deal or not.

Here's a pic.

What is a competition plus shifter mechanism and shifter worth? The shifter is straight, maybe a foot tall, and held on with 2 bolts. The mechanism has part number 391 5401. No linkage rods included. Are these any better than the factory Hurst mechanisms?

Here's the link on how to make the adapter plate: http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/abconv.shtml