1/4 mile times

-
Turn the darn distrubtor over and look at the bottom side of that plate that has the advance weights on it! You might be surprised at what you see and the instruction I posted CLEARLY tell you where the bushing is located. The instructions also tell you how to lock it out.

Locking it out gets rid of the advance weights and crap all together. Put in the engine, time it for total at idle and you're done. No initial/mech split, no advance curve. just run the thing.

Try using google to search for info to get a better understanding.

What number is on the MSD distribuitor tag? 8536?
 
number is 8536.
I am in the mistd of learning the whole electronic ign thing like i said,
but for someone who had no experience with it up until now.. you can imagine how confusing inital,advance,curve,springs,weights,bushings,all this can be so im workin on it hah,
Also i just took the rest of the compression readings... and now thats the 1st compression test i have done but when its cranking the needle hit 150 everytime for a split second but never stayed up there, normally settled down at the highest from 135-145 and checked all but two cylinders because there kinda hard to get two so i tested the other 6.
Now since it did hit up to 150 but came back down is that 150 reading accurate or whatever the gauge settles back down to?
and that was throttle primary& secondaries open.. all that good stuff
 
Those instructions work perfectly for an 8536 distributor... READ THEM!

Here's the progression for setting timing...

Initial - the amount of advance the engine wants at idle
Total - the total timing that the engine makes most HP. Consists of, initial + mechanical
Curve - how the mechanical advance comes in. Done generally with springs

It's a foundational, walk before you run type deal. You have to get the initial set up before adjusting the distributor to get the desired total. Do one step before proceeding to the next.
 
ok checked timing,
now numbers arnt perfect because like i said i dont have a tach that works perfect but i think they are close...
My timing tape is hard to read so i went of 0* and waited till the timing light matched... but anyways this is what i got.

Initial was around 29 and total was around 37
Now i took it to 30 initial and 38 total and it seems to sound a little better and starts fine.

ill have to wait and see if i can get it down better with a tach in that works..

ALso any comments on the 2" carb spacer? remove to get rmps down on the intake a little??? just to try?
 
ok alllsoo another question... im going to get my tach tonight and i saw that the car wasnt running a revlimiter. so im gonna go and buy the little modual pack. around what rpm should i put in?
 
I've heard of stabbing the distributor and if your interested in a fuel cell PM me.
 
hamesdart said:
ok alllsoo another question... im going to get my tach tonight and i saw that the car wasnt running a revlimiter. so im gonna go and buy the little modual pack. around what rpm should i put in?
Click to expand...

id put it maybe 2-300rpm higher than were you plan on shifting at...mind you, if you are messing with optimum shift points for your motor (I dont know as i didnt read the entire thread) its probably better to get a digital one that way you can constantly adjust it without pills
 
well what did the timing numbers look like to you guys?
Initial was around 24 and total was around 35
Now i took it to 30 initial and 38 total and it seems to sound a little better and starts fine. The other numbers i posted were wrong.

But the problem was when the car was at low idle to get the idle reading it was jumping around so much it was hard to get a clear reading but those numbers are ballpark. and i dont have a timing tape i can read on there so i read it with the dial on the back of the timing light and waited till the light and my tdc mark matched and read it that way,
and as far as total timing i couldnt tell rpm wise were i was at so i waited around till it stopped advancing more or less...
Also for carburation ill see what we have as far as jetting now... but otherwise i have a friend with an holley 800dp i can have free just getting reworked over rite now.. if that is something that might help a little.?

Still have some things i need to get the car timed and carb tuned in but how does that sound for now?
 
ok guys well i found my timing problems also....
The reason i couldnt find the timing bushing/stud is because there is none...
It either was removed on purpose....for some odd reason, or was broke offf somehow, i cant ask the previous owner anymore so i guess its time for a new one? you need that stud to lock it out anyway if im not mistaken?

P1000978.JPG


P1000979.jpg
 
hamesdart said:
ok. Bob
Well I dont know if you read my 1st post which was saying that after the car was out back together i Ran out of time and went straight to the track without tuning, and was asking the forum to analize my 1/4 times (which is what my post says) and give opinions on how to get the car to launch harder. So please dont come onto any of my post with an agressive attitude because its not needed on the forum for anyone,
As for everybody else...thanks for the melting pot of ideas and tips as well.
Positive feedback and ideas are what brings us together on the site.
Click to expand...
i'd like to apologize for stepping out of line and i stand corrected and thanks to being a gentleman in the way you handle it.
 
no im not worried about all that,
I think almost all distributers do have the shaft and bushing but this set-up since its the older discontinued model i think the weights themself hitting the plastic center peice is the max... instead of an adjustable bushing.
But i called the original owner and he said he put it in brand new and thats how it came.. and he always just set it for total and ran it like that... as long as it didnt have problems starting then it was fine.?
 
ok well i figured out the distributer....
this is about 6-7 years old.. so most msd tech guys i talked to (about 7) had no idea what was wrong... its old technology.
instead of a threaded bolt and nut to hold the bushing into place they used to use a stud and a c-clip to hold it on.. i had to school the msd guys on it.
Thats why when i kept saying theres no bolt...and everyone sayed there has to be.. we were all just a little off haha. but no i ordered the bushing kit and ill get a bushing in there and timing will get set...
another question i had for fuel.. i have a holley 800dp a guy is going to re-build and give to me for free.. so do you think that will help with not only this build but for when i go to a solid 545 lift cam later next month???
And also with the carb spacer? its 2" should i try running without it since its bumping up the rpm range a little at least?

And lastly im having problems on converters... i called hughes and they said that there "3500" stall converter actually will stall at about 26-2800 for my big block and so on... but the cams im looking at say they kick in at about 2800-3400 so how do you choose converters base on that stall lost from advertised? i cant see how you can get real close so your not rolling before the cam jumps into action? thanks guys
 
ok well i got my kit today... ima try puting in the big black advance bushing and then re-time it all in with my new tach installed too haha,
now ill see if i can get it all stragithened out.
 
Just an idea ....

I just noticed something--you have a 3310 carb , yes?

In that pic , i see a secondary metering block. 3310 doesnt come with sec. block.

If thats not set up right - you are not getting any fuel to your secondary side of the carb .

Im not entirely familiar with that particular metering block conversion , but i bet someone on here is.
 
496dart said:
Just an idea ....

I just noticed something--you have a 3310 carb , yes?

In that pic , i see a secondary metering block. 3310 doesnt come with sec. block.

If thats not set up right - you are not getting any fuel to your secondary side of the carb .

Im not entirely familiar with that particular metering block conversion , but i bet someone on here is.
Click to expand...

Depends on the 3310

The 3310-1 had a metering block, no plate. Later models, -2 and up, came with a plate
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top