1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
Read the thread. It's his only car and daily driver.
We have a 66 Nova around here that runs 9.80s Its a "Street Car" too.
10 sec small block
- Thread starter mopar426
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Read the thread. It's his only car and daily driver.
We have a 66 Nova around here that runs 9.80s Its a "Street Car" too.
thanks for the great advise 1968FormulaS340 vbmenu_register("postmenu_527885", true); that really helped me out on some things like the valve springs which i didnt know. I do have a bigblock already and i was goin to stroke it to 500 with some indy heads but i thought it would be cool to have a 10 sec small block mabye i should build my demon with a well built small block that is reliable and just build an all out drag car
Stock crank,rods, stroke and bore? If so preety big number for just building a stock short block.
I (Pro built) stroked a 340 to 416 and dyno'd at 500/500. I could have saved a bundle not buying a Complete Scat rotating assembly!
11sec-cuda
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This is a 408 that ran mid 10's in street trim.
It's a .030 over block. But yes, stock cast crank and rods/good bolts. Just good basic machine work done on all components.
It makes about 570 now with a cam change. It's all in the heads IMHO.
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
You don't need a stroker to make 500 or even 600+ HP with a small block. Like cackedback said good heads will do it. Put your money there and build the motor around them and it will do it. And with the short stroke it will rev fast and high Up around 7+ grand, thats where the power is at. A stroker adds more to the torque then the HP. Good for a street car but not needed for a drag car.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
Posting "Street Cars" that run in the 10s is fine and all... We could do it all day long.
I guess I'm the only one that took the time to ask if this was the guys only car....
The original poster wants his demon to run in the 10s, with a small block. It is his only car and daily driver.
That Challenger for example may run in the 10s but no way is it the guys only car and daily driver.
So I guess if we want to stay on topic (and not follow my advice of getting a driver as a second car).... Show some small block DAILY drivers that run 10s.
>>>Or give us a combo that would be a reliable, small block, everyday driver and run in the 10s. (may be interesting to see what everyone comes up with).
If it was your ONLY car and you HAD to have it run in the 10s how would you build it?
Lets put a conservative 10,000 mile a year drive distance on the build.
(From his post #27 it sounds like he will take my advise)
I guess I'm the only one that took the time to ask if this was the guys only car....
The original poster wants his demon to run in the 10s, with a small block. It is his only car and daily driver.
That Challenger for example may run in the 10s but no way is it the guys only car and daily driver.
So I guess if we want to stay on topic (and not follow my advice of getting a driver as a second car).... Show some small block DAILY drivers that run 10s.
>>>Or give us a combo that would be a reliable, small block, everyday driver and run in the 10s. (may be interesting to see what everyone comes up with).
If it was your ONLY car and you HAD to have it run in the 10s how would you build it?
Lets put a conservative 10,000 mile a year drive distance on the build.
(From his post #27 it sounds like he will take my advise)
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
Well lets see mabby some thing like this.
340 with a 4 inch crank, around 10.5 compression, comp cam solid roller .576 lift and around 240 duration at .050 lift, ported eddy heads, eddy victor intake, 800 cfm holley duble pumper.
Mini tubed with 28/13.5 M/T street tires, bat in trunk,frame connectors, caltracs, 8 3/4 or Dana rear with 4.30 gears, and a trany with an overdrive.
That should put you in the mid to high 10's depending on weight.
Understandable as I was building a street strip car. I was just amazed to see such numbers for such a build keeping in mind a stock 360 has a longer stroke smaller bore than a 340 stock. I also wanted to run ,or be able to run, on pump keeping the compression in the 10's ratio.
Horsepower will spin your wheels Torque will get you down the road :cheers:
11sec-cuda
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You are correct the challenger is not my only car. However it gets driven to work and the car hangouts in my area and it also was driven to maple grove raced for 3 days and driven back to NY. (Around 600 miles)So I guess it depends on what you are looking to spend.
flboatman1
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I don't know how to approch this subject but, there are races today where you have to check in to one track and drive to several diff. tracks and compete. 60 miles or? my car is a 72 dart I run it on shell pump gas with lucus oct buster . because racing gas is 11.00 a gal here. cant afford it. on a good night I can run 6.90 at 100.mph in 1/8 mi. converts to about 10.7 in 1/4 there is no way you could drive this veh. on street. I have a 210 shot of nitrus on it I used it once when I first bought car went 6.4 this is a 20 over 360 roller mtr. J heads built to the max . 488 gears, 904 with 4800/5200 stall I'm affraid to tell you, there is no way you would want to drive this animal on street and destroy all the work you did on it. but if you have the $$$ go ahead. if you spray eng on every run it wont last very long. its simulier to a nitro car they tear down after every run. I know there is a lot off people out there running in 10's and they say there driving on street every day?? I don't know any of them. I've never raced one of them . and I don't think you will meet to very many of them. if you can afford to put the car in shop every mo. for major repair try it. I've ben racing since 1958 . Good Luck Gary
mshred
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im going to chime in on this even though im no expert...judging by what you said, that this will be your only car, i think 10's is very unrealistic...alot of guys talk of 10 sec street cars, that they only drive to cruise nights and coffee shops or the odd local "races" (if you know what i mean), but other than that streetability really isnt there...I think you have a few options...you could either get some real good forged internals and spray it when you want it (mind you i have always felt bottles are for babies but thats just my opinion)...I know a guy who has demon around me...its a 360 stroked to 408, forged internals (not sure of the CR on it) and when he sprays it he runs mid 11's on 275 drag radials with a 3.91 gear...he drives his car hard and everywhere, lots of highway miles too, and doesnt have any problems with it (has since gone the procharged route and now making 750 at the crank)...the other option is i think to build a mild low compression big block...I have only been in one big block abody, and its my dad's dart...although his car is setup for the track (hence the minitub, 4.88 gears and 3500 converter) and should be good for high 11's, and his setup is fairly mild and is a blast to drive...just ask some of the other guys on here, the torque a big block a-body will make is awesome! I cant explain how wicked it is to be planted in the seat from the torque and like i said my dads motor is very mild...even with a stock stroke 440, not nescesarily a stroker lowdeck motor, with some mild upgrades, decent tires and suspension and gear, you can have quite a bit of street fun while still running pump gas! so there is my .02 cents...in my opinion, anything faster than mid 11's that is daily driven is really pushing it...thats why i have alot of respect for guys who drive their cars everyday and can come to the strip and pull off high 11's/ mid 12's in street trim...they may not be the fastest guys out there, but there cars are enjoyable and driven everywhere...most guys who go faster are restricted from that versatility
71dustar
Well-Known Member
maybe a dumb question, how do you know when your springs have gone?
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
The only dumb question is the one you never ask.
You will start getting valve float (Springs can no longer control the valves)...
For example (and I'm no pro here but this can give you an idea)..
Lets say you normally run your car to 6500 rpm.. everything is fine...
Then sometimes it starts to pop and sputter at 6500 rpm but runs fine if you shift at 6000.
So you start shifting at 6000 rpm.
Then sometimes it starts to pop and sputter at 6000 rpm but runs fine if you shift at 5500.
See where Im going...... The springs are going away. They are losing pressure and the ability to control the valves.
Other bad things can happen too like piston valve interference.
I honestly had a chev 350 that would not rev over 3500 because the valve springs were so bad.
I think the vision of a 10 second comfortable take it on family trips and put 10,000 miles on it a year are far fetched.
I believe people that want to venture that direction aren't looking for that. Their just looking for a radical street car. Short trips and IF I wanted fuel economy I would have bought a Smart Car.
While I toyed with my truck people would always ask me what kind of mileage do you get? Honestly I use to tell them who gives a $hit. But I can get between 10-17 MPG.
Here's where I come from as far as street able fast comfortable vehicles. For instance my truck. All ECM custom calibration 3 levels of tunes to select from. Tow,race and Extreme. This 7500+ pound warrior with a 100 shot of N2O will run 12's. There are 2500 series diesels that are in the 10's ON fuel that can still haul the trailer and get the grocery's on Saturday morning with the kids.
My truck rides and drives like a caddy at 500 RWP which is over 700 HP at the crank running through a built Allison transmission. You'd never know unless I turn the wick up and when those A,B solenoids fire off the 1-2 shift and that big phat *** is coming around.
I got out of it because it's expensive. Although with the money I have in my car to date I could have a 10 second daily driver ,family hauler ease the seat back and enjoy the ride!
So I don't believe you can do it with old school carburetter engines. Bring fuel injection and computer calibration into the picture and then I believe it would be a different story.
The last 10 second car I had a ride in was a Grand National. Fun crazy not something I see you sitting in,in traffic ,in the Hamptons with a trunk full off luggage and kids asking are we there yet!
I'd still like to know more about that 360 build and are those ET calibrated HP numbers? Because dam I have some money in the Edelbrock heads on my 340 with polishing and porting.
I believe people that want to venture that direction aren't looking for that. Their just looking for a radical street car. Short trips and IF I wanted fuel economy I would have bought a Smart Car.
While I toyed with my truck people would always ask me what kind of mileage do you get? Honestly I use to tell them who gives a $hit. But I can get between 10-17 MPG.
Here's where I come from as far as street able fast comfortable vehicles. For instance my truck. All ECM custom calibration 3 levels of tunes to select from. Tow,race and Extreme. This 7500+ pound warrior with a 100 shot of N2O will run 12's. There are 2500 series diesels that are in the 10's ON fuel that can still haul the trailer and get the grocery's on Saturday morning with the kids.
My truck rides and drives like a caddy at 500 RWP which is over 700 HP at the crank running through a built Allison transmission. You'd never know unless I turn the wick up and when those A,B solenoids fire off the 1-2 shift and that big phat *** is coming around.
I got out of it because it's expensive. Although with the money I have in my car to date I could have a 10 second daily driver ,family hauler ease the seat back and enjoy the ride!
So I don't believe you can do it with old school carburetter engines. Bring fuel injection and computer calibration into the picture and then I believe it would be a different story.
The last 10 second car I had a ride in was a Grand National. Fun crazy not something I see you sitting in,in traffic ,in the Hamptons with a trunk full off luggage and kids asking are we there yet!
I'd still like to know more about that 360 build and are those ET calibrated HP numbers? Because dam I have some money in the Edelbrock heads on my 340 with polishing and porting.
from hearing what you guys have said ill prob back off a bit and run 11s. FRom what yall are sayin id prob be under the hood workin on it (which is fun too) than be behind the wheel of my mopar (where i love to be)
That 360 build was dyno'd on a pump that has shown to be very consistent with car et/mph at the track. The engine is what was posted. Cast crank 360, KB's, with w2's. The owner is one of the better, if not the best, head porters for SB mopars. It's the cylinder heads that make the engine go.
I've posted pics of the car before, 71 Duster, full interior.
When the car was first run, it went 11.50's and has had time shaved off it ever since. Bad convertors, ft. suspension changes, std and low gear sets in the 904, brake/no brake. Last time out it went 1.37 60', and 10.50.
I agree that "street driving" an old school, carbed, 10 second car is a chore.
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