11.75 B body brake Q's

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805moparkid

805moparkid

Slant and AFX Guy
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im looking to do the 11.75 brake upgrade and use the mancini brackets for wilwood calipers.

couple q's...

what year did the b bodies start using the 11.75 discs

did all b bodies use them in those years

can i use my 73 disc a body spindles and those rotors?

lastly are the b body spindles a direct swap over to a BBJ a body?

thanks!
 
73+ a body spindle will be just fine with your 11.75 bracket. Use a 1977 model and you will find the rotor size you're after.
 
Yep, but you can tell them you want the bearings from that 77 model to make things easier (you know the current parts store people need all the help they can get). The dust cap is different from the 10.87 and 11.75.
 
805moparkid said:
what year did the b bodies start using the 11.75 discs
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1975

805moparkid said:
did all b bodies use them in those years
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No, depending on the year and model some of them had 10.98" rotors

805moparkid said:
can i use my 73 disc a body spindles and those rotors?
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Yes, and even your 73 A body calipers.

805moparkid said:
lastly are the b body spindles a direct swap over to a BBJ a body?
Click to expand...

Yes

805moparkid said:
so they use the same bearings?
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Umm, not sure about the same bearings. I know the inner diameter is the same because they work just fine on 73+ A body spindles (or any FMJ spindles as well). Not positive about the outer diameter though. I just get bearings for a '77.

They came on all of these models...

CHRYSLER CORDOBA (1976 - 1979)
CHRYSLER NEW YORKER (1979 - 1981)
CHRYSLER NEWPORT (1979 - 1981)
DODGE CHARGER (1976 - 1978 )
DODGE CORONET (1975 - 1976)
DODGE MAGNUM 1979
DODGE MONACO (1977 - 1978 )
DODGE ST. REGIS (1979 - 1981)
PLYMOUTH FURY (1976 - 1978 )
PLYMOUTH FURY SALON (1977 - 1978 )
PLYMOUTH FURY SPORT (1977 - 1978 )
PLYMOUTH FURY SPORT SUBURBAN (1977 - 1978 )
PLYMOUTH FURY SUBURBAN (1977 - 1978 )
PLYMOUTH GRAN FURY (1980 - 1981)
PLYMOUTH GRAN FURY SALON 1980
 
72bluNblu said:
Umm, not sure about the same bearings. I know the inner diameter is the same because they work just fine on 73+ A body spindles (or any FMJ spindles as well). Not positive about the outer diameter though.

They came on all of these models...

CHRYSLER CORDOBA (1976 - 1979)
CHRYSLER NEW YORKER (1979 - 1981)
CHRYSLER NEWPORT (1979 - 1981)
DODGE CHARGER (1976 - 1978 )
DODGE CORONET (1975 - 1976)
DODGE MAGNUM 1979
DODGE MONACO (1977 - 1978 )
DODGE ST. REGIS (1979 - 1981)
PLYMOUTH FURY (1976 - 1978 )
PLYMOUTH FURY SALON (1977 - 1978 )
PLYMOUTH FURY SPORT (1977 - 1978 )
PLYMOUTH FURY SPORT SUBURBAN (1977 - 1978 )
PLYMOUTH FURY SUBURBAN (1977 - 1978 )
PLYMOUTH GRAN FURY (1980 - 1981)
PLYMOUTH GRAN FURY SALON 1980
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yea i should have been more clear. they have the same inner. AWESOME! i plan on doing this and the jeep rears on my 8.25.

Thanks guys!
 
1970Duster said:
Nice! Just know you can't get those turned.
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Yeah, but its not that big a deal. I have 40k miles on the drilled/slotted rotors on my Challenger, and they look fine. Coming down to the end of my pads finally, I'll throw the next set on without messing with the rotors. Might lose a little life span on the pads, but the rotors are still free of gouges so it shouldn't be a big issue. After that there probably wouldn't be enough meat on the rotors to turn them anyway.

Summit sells the D/S 11.75" rotors for $70 a piece. Just don't forget to buy a left and a right. :D

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-br-63009r/overview

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-br-63009l/overview
 
72bluNblu said:
Yeah, but its not that big a deal. I have 40k miles on the drilled/slotted rotors on my Challenger, and they look fine. Coming down to the end of my pads finally, I'll throw the next set on without messing with the rotors. Might lose a little life span on the pads, but the rotors are still free of gouges so it shouldn't be a big issue. After that there probably wouldn't be enough meat on the rotors to turn them anyway.

Summit sells the D/S 11.75" rotors for $70 a piece. Just don't forget to buy a left and a right. :D

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-br-63009r/overview

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-br-63009l/overview
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im assuming those have a hub correct?
 
1970Duster said:
Nice! Just know you can't get those turned.
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I turned drilled Porsche rotors all the time with no problems. Use super sharp bits in the lathe with slow feed rates and don't take big cuts. Never had a comeback.
 
lilcuda said:
I turned drilled Porsche rotors all the time with no problems. Use super sharp bits in the lathe with slow feed rates and don't take big cuts. Never had a comeback.
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X2 Same here turn those kinda of rotors every now and then at work
 
Why that big rotor? I would just stay with the factory 73-76 a-body. If you need more stopping power than that get a shoot. They will be a lot more weight to get rolling. And more friction to over come.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Why that big rotor? I would just stay with the factory 73-76 a-body. If you need more stopping power than that get a shoot. They will be a lot more weight to get rolling. And more friction to over come.
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A chute? Not all of us are drag racers.

The stopping power of the 11.75" rotors is a significant increase over the stock 10.98" rotors, as well as having better fade resistance for repeated braking (like with corners...). And it only takes a $100 set of caliper brackets and the rotors to do it, so why wouldn't you? When you start running 255 or wider tires in the front with modern rubber compounds the stock brakes start showing their weaknesses. Which is why you can now get everything up to and including 14" rotors for these cars. The 11.75's are a cheap, OE part way to improve your braking without having to get crazy spending oodles of money on brakes. And you can still run 15" rims.

The 275's on the front of my Challenger work the crap out of the 11.75" rotors I run on it, you can hear them straining to reel those big tires in when I get deep into the brakes, and it plants the nose of my Challenger even with 1.12" torsion bars. I can totally see why the road race guys go to bigger rotors than even the 11.75's.
 
All the power in the world don't mean crap if you can't stop it.
 
72bluNblu said:
A chute? Not all of us are drag racers.

The stopping power of the 11.75" rotors is a significant increase over the stock 10.98" rotors, as well as having better fade resistance for repeated braking (like with corners...). And it only takes a $100 set of caliper brackets and the rotors to do it, so why wouldn't you? When you start running 255 or wider tires in the front with modern rubber compounds the stock brakes start showing their weaknesses. Which is why you can now get everything up to and including 14" rotors for these cars. The 11.75's are a cheap, OE part way to improve your braking without having to get crazy spending oodles of money on brakes. And you can still run 15" rims.

The 275's on the front of my Challenger work the crap out of the 11.75" rotors I run on it, you can hear them straining to reel those big tires in when I get deep into the brakes, and it plants the nose of my Challenger even with 1.12" torsion bars. I can totally see why the road race guys go to bigger rotors than even the 11.75's.
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right... and im planning on running 255/50-16's on all 4 corners

1970Duster said:
All the power in the world don't mean crap if you can't stop it.
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have that on the grey car, stock 9" drums up front lol
 
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