1966 Barracuda, Commando 4bbl, 4 speed restoration

[Miranthis]

Update:

I got word from the body guy that the hood should probably be replaced. Guess I will start looking.

I also got my 489 case mounted in a jig, primed and coated with spray grey. Hope to get the pinion bearings installed and preload set this weekend. And these showed up as well --->

The housing should be primed and painted in a week or so. I shoudl be able to blast the A-833 when I pick up the rear housing.

 

[Miranthis]

Just heard back from the machine shop on my engine. All good news.

Crank was good and could be cleaned up without too much trouble. Piston bores to 0.030 over to address the scars of the stuck rings in Cyl #3 from my failure to store it correctly. Passed its magnaflux, both heads and block. Gave them the go-ahead to finish the work. Ordering a cam from Racer Brown. Sounds like the combo of decking, thicker gaskets, and the known item with the Egge piston about pin placement will leave me below the original 10.5 to 1, but that is not an issue as I could not get that sort of gas without doing my own car-side chemical admixture anyway.

full body pics at some point, but in the meantime I worked on the frozen speedometer. Literally the input shaft siezed and snapped the cable long ago, likely from lack of lubrication. Will post that update tonight.

 

[Miranthis]

Other recent work. Unstuck the frozen original speedo. It just seized up (at 218,495 - a few miles added with me workign it after I unfroze it), likely from never being lubricated.

the input shaft was frozen solid, although the needle moved freely as did the cup half of the magnet/cup. I was able to remove the brass lube cup and work some PB blaster and FP-10 in there after removing the tiny felt wick. after a fair amount of time soaking I used a heat gun at the area of the orange arrows to gently heat it to round 140 or so, being careful to avoid the area opposite the brass cup as that is where the white plastic gear that drives some of the odo parts resides. that got the oil bubbling about and with some careful use of some curved pliers i finally got the brass ferule (lower red arrow) to budge, although the magnet part of he magnet/cup (top red arrow) was still stuck and not turning (but not bent or interfereing with the cup). I filled the oil port with lube and then used air pressure and a rubber tip air gun to try to force the oil out. this seemed to work although I kept the regulator pressure down at like 25 psi max, just in case.

I also mounted it face up and put a pool of lube in the frame (purple arrows below), below the cup/magnet so that it pooled around the shaft.

using the heat again and some patience along with gentle pressure with the pliers I got it to wiggle and then move. After a while moving it back and forth it was freed of any crud and working smoothly. I reinserted the wick and brass cup after making sure it was full of lube.

Anyway, now it works, at least on the bench. It feels as smooth as my extra one that has a faded face, but working internals.

Hope to get the differential set up next, as that has been delayed by time constraints (mainly associated with the birth of my first grandchild, so I am not complaining. ).

 

[mpgmike]

Dude, you implemented several strategies that ARE NOT part of the STANDARD service procedure -- and got the sucker working! It may seem like a small thing, but I'm amazed by your ingenuity to get this going. Hats off! Nice work! Oh, and thanks for sharing.

 

[Miranthis]

Dude, you implemented several strategies that ARE NOT part of the STANDARD service procedure -- and got the sucker working! It may seem like a small thing, but I'm amazed by your ingenuity to get this going. Hats off! Nice work! Oh, and thanks for sharing.

What was the worst that could happen? It could not "not work" any harder than it already was...

 

[Miranthis]

Been a slow summer with LOTS of interruptions and various "real life" crap getting in the way. And, it's summer in KC so my south facing garage is only a few degrees below the surface temp of the sun. However, I just paid for some machine shop work on the engine and ordered the cam, lifters, and springs from racer brown, so I am making some progress, however slight. Still on my bench is the differential and A-833 for completion. On the body front, I have pile of stuff to order and then a bunch of prep work to make way for the body repairs. I did some small work on some electric stuff (switches etc.) in my office. Will update soon.

 

[Miranthis]

First real (part)day working on the body of the barracuda. Current task is to cut out the parts that will be replaced with new metal. Only spent a few hours, but will be doing 1 of 2 Saturdays a month for a while. Here are some pics:

Also decided to take a stab at the carb rebuild. Kit is on the way but have done the disassembly and some cleaning. I was scared to see the inside of the bowls, but it was not bad at all (the liquid is carb dip and/or spray carb cleaner and/or Evaporust). Some gunk in the secondaries where the air door weights move, but again, now bad to clean up. I am hitting the Aluminum Oxide dust with a Dremel and a brass brush and it is looking good.

More details as I progress.

 

[mygasser]

i agree with your 'i can't make it worse' attitude, i'm much the same with parts that don't work. it's only my/your time to have a go at fixing it so.....
re the mileage, do you know the history of the car to know it's gone round the clock twice? if you're referring to the 2 showing on the white drum then that's 2/10 of a mile on the trip section of the odometer. the mileage shown in your pic is 18,496.
neil.

 

[Miranthis]

i agree with your 'i can't make it worse' attitude, i'm much the same with parts that don't work. it's only my/your time to have a go at fixing it so.....
re the mileage, do you know the history of the car to know it's gone round the clock twice? if you're referring to the 2 showing on the white drum then that's 2/10 of a mile on the trip section of the odometer. the mileage shown in your pic is 18,496.
neil.

Re: parts..

I have fixed a number of switches and such that folks were just throwing away. The new replacements many times are just not that good...

Re: the Mileage...

Yes, it's 218,496 on the clock. I reset the trip odometer when I started working on freeing it up and the 1.2 miles on that is just from running the shaft with a drill to free it up, work the shaft lube in to the speedo works and then testing to make sure it was well lubed. (it was just a coincidence that the thing ended up with 1.2 on the trip odo when I took that picture ) This car has been in the family since 1968 when my dad bought it from his friend who bought it new in KCK. It went over 100K the first time in the early 1970's as dad and mom drove from KC to Denver/Colorado springs a lot. They bought it just before his KS NG unit got mobilized to Ft. Carson. They were back to KC before 1970, but still went out several times a year to see friends. He also drove it to Signal Officer Basic at Ft. Gordon, GA. It was mom and dad's daily driver for years (and brought me home from the Hospital after my birth in 1970). It took us on every campout, float trip, or other adventure until I learned to drive it. I got my DL at 14 in 1984 and drove it through high school and I was the one that took it over 100K the 2nd time. It made it to the mileage you see before the speedo failed and the cable broke. I drove it after that without a speedo until I parked it in the late 80's. Just glad i was able to free the speedo up. So yes, i am completely confident in the mileage and history.

I suppose if i was not so wrapped up in THIS Barracuda, i would have bought one farther along in the resto, or one that was finished. But this is MY Barracuda, and I am seeing it through to the end. (at this point I could not stop if i wanted as i have several HS friends to whom i have promised rides, for old time's sake, and sons that want to drive it. I abhor letting folks down.)

 

[Miranthis]

More Carb pics. I have been soaking and scrubbing. Still have some areas with yellow/white deposits that I think are old gas varnish and Aluminum oxide corrosion. You can see it as a "dried pee" looking stuff in hard to reach areas in the pics like inside holes and such.

Top looks pretty good after cleaning.

I do have one loose piece, pictured here, that is the steel stop for the float that is riveted to the top. One of the two sides is a bit lose. Trying to decide whether its worth trying to tighten it up or just leave it.

Also have some steel left to get the rust off of with an Evaporust soak. Rebuild kit ought to be here this week.

 

[mpgmike]

Re: parts..

I have fixed a number of switches and such that folks were just throwing away. The new replacements many times are just not that good...

Re: the Mileage...

Yes, it's 218,496 on the clock. I reset the trip odometer when I started working on freeing it up and the 1.2 miles on that is just from running the shaft with a drill to free it up, work the shaft lube in to the speedo works and then testing to make sure it was well lubed. (it was just a coincidence that the thing ended up with 1.2 on the trip odo when I took that picture ) This car has been in the family since 1968 when my dad bought it from his friend who bought it new in KCK. It went over 100K the first time in the early 1970's as dad and mom drove from KC to Denver/Colorado springs a lot. They bought it just before his KS NG unit got mobilized to Ft. Carson. They were back to KC before 1970, but still went out several times a year to see friends. He also drove it to Signal Officer Basic at Ft. Gordon, GA. It was mom and dad's daily driver for years (and brought me home from the Hospital after my birth in 1970). It took us on every campout, float trip, or other adventure until I learned to drive it. I got my DL at 14 in 1984 and drove it through high school and I was the one that took it over 100K the 2nd time. It made it to the mileage you see before the speedo failed and the cable broke. I drove it after that without a speedo until I parked it in the late 80's. Just glad i was able to free the speedo up. So yes, i am completely confident in the mileage and history.

I suppose if i was not so wrapped up in THIS Barracuda, i would have bought one farther along in the resto, or one that was finished. But this is MY Barracuda, and I am seeing it through to the end. (at this point I could not stop if i wanted as i have several HS friends to whom i have promised rides, for old time's sake, and sons that want to drive it. I abhor letting folks down.)

Your Dad & I are close to the same age. I graduated HS in 1984.

 

[Miranthis]

Your Dad & I are close to the same age. I graduated HS in 1984.

I was class of 1988... dad was class of 1959... I think you mean you and I are close in age.

 

[phantomx]

Re: the Mileage...

Yes, it's 218,496 on the clock.

I have my uncles 68 suburban. After I got it from him, we were standing around chatting and I said something about the mileage. He said “you know that’s been over 3 times”. I figured it was over once, but never would have guessed 3 times. He bought it in ‘72 I think he said and he daily drove it until about ‘98. He used that thing for everything except towing, it’s never had a hitch on it.

For some reason people think nobody went anywhere back in the day.
Travis..

 

[Miranthis]

Completed the rebuild of my AFB 4119s. Feel confident that I got most of the rust off the steel parts with an Evaporust soak or four. The Air Cleaner base did really well, and there are a few small chrome blemishes where water might collect near the pie pan, and there was some surface rust on the inside of the Air Cleaner. This pie pan decal is the one I bought out of the back on a mid 1980s paper ad in Hemming's Motor News. The original was a VERY faded 'Charger 273' that should have been on a Dart and not a Barracuda. No one is quite sure why/how a "dodge" air cleaner made it on the Plymouth. Could have been an assembly line mistake, or joke, or it could have been an artifact of some delivery misadventure. What is clear is that the original owner said it was delivered that way and he was a car guy. I wrestled with the Charger 273 decal in the 80s and again now, but have been using the right "Commando 273" decal and will probably continue to do so, unless I luck into another Air Cleaner.

 

[CUDA 67]

after a prolonged soak in the parts solvent, I have the manual steering boxes ready to swap worm gear and rebuild. The car came with a fast ratio manual box (with the fractured tab on the right) and it was replaced in the 70's with a standard ratio box (on the left) that was in it until i disassembled the car. The plan is to rebuild the good box on the left and swap in the fast ratio gear set from the original box.

View attachment 1716371039

I assumed that the replacement was out of some newer model A body, by to my surprise the case build dates are both 1965. I just can't make out the month stampings around the 65 starburst, but given the slight difference in the way the part number is cast it seems safe to assume that these are not from the same mold.
Original box -->

View attachment 1716371040

"Replacement box" -->
View attachment 1716371042

I also found stampings on the sector gear cover, below, original on the right the replacement on the left.

View attachment 1716371043View attachment 1716371044
The build date for my 66 was B10 (November 10, 1965) on the fender tag. Based on the other threads the B in the date code = 1966 model year (and C is 67, D = 68 etc.). I wonder if 1018 is October 18, 1965? If it is that works with the SO build date being November 10, but what does the D at the end stand for? The code on the replacement box is B1115 with no trailing letter. Also, the first two '1's are a different font, but the other stamping is also uneven in application and such, so it could just be the stamping irregularity,

At this point I am ordering the rebuild kit from FFI and will move the original 16:1 worm gear to the unbroken box.

This fracture sure looks like a casting defect.
View attachment 1716371051

View attachment 1716371041

How did you get the steering box out? I am trying to replace the power steering box in my 67 Cuda but am not sure how to disconnect it from the steering column and then around the headers. I have the 3 bolts out that hold it in place.

 

[Miranthis]

How did you get the steering box out? I am trying to replace the power steering box in my 67 Cuda but am not sure how to disconnect it from the steering column and then around the headers. I have the 3 bolts out that hold it in place.

I cheated...mine came oit AFTER i removed thr engine.

Without removal that task is tough and my box is a manual. The power box is larger i am told. I suspect you may need to unbolt a motor mount or two. Be careful not to crack thr distributor as you push th engine aroud to make room.

Hopefully someone will chime in with a tip for removal

The shaft on mine has a splined coupler. There is a pin that drives in to hold them together. If you drive that pin out you can lever the shaft off the spline. You may need to loosen the steeing column. And using a pry bar to get the coupler moving may be necessary. If you want it i can take pics of it disassembledto help you visualize it. There are some videos on YT. If i saved one i will send you a link.

 

[CUDA 67]

I cheated...mine came oit AFTER i removed thr engine.

Without removal that task is tough and my box is a manual. The power box is larger i am told. I suspect you may need to unbolt a motor mount or two. Be careful not to crack thr distributor as you push th engine aroud to make room.

Hopefully someone will chime in with a tip for removal

The shaft on mine has a splined coupler. There is a pin that drives in to hold them together. If you drive that pin out you can lever the shaft off the spline. You may need to loosen the steeing column. And using a pry bar to get the coupler moving may be necessary. If you want it i can take pics of it disassembledto help you visualize it. There are some videos on YT. If i saved one i will send you a link.

I was able to get it out after removing the power steering pump, backing out the steering column, removing the motor mount and header on that side. What a job and a mess when the steering fluid and antifreeze ran out all over everything. I think I will replace the headers as long as I have the one side out.

I can't seem to find a replacement, Summit, Classic Industries and Lares all gave me the same part number but when it arrived I looked at it and it's not at all the same so it's going back. Looks like Readhead Steering Gears will rebuild mine so that's my option. Does anyone have a lead on other places that may be able to do the rebuild?

 

[jeff alder]

I was able to get it out after removing the power steering pump, backing out the steering column, removing the motor mount and header on that side. What a job and a mess when the steering fluid and antifreeze ran out all over everything. I think I will replace the headers as long as I have the one side out.

I can't seem to find a replacement, Summit, Classic Industries and Lares all gave me the same part number but when it arrived I looked at it and it's not at all the same so it's going back. Looks like Readhead Steering Gears will rebuild mine so that's my option. Does anyone have a lead on other places that may be able to do the rebuild?

Firm Feel

 

[Miranthis]

Metal fab work today....until my left knee protested

 

[Miranthis]

Finished the differential rebuild and set up last weekend. It is a replacement for the original, so it has a 489 case, crush sleeve eliminator, and returns to the original 3.23 SureGrip, all parts except the case are from Doctor Diff. Finished it in the Eastwood spray gray so it looks like fresh cast iron. Still probably a year from putting the car back on its own wheels, so it goes into stasis. Still need to get backing plates before I can reassemble the whole rear end. That will mean deciding on rear drums as original or going with rear discs.... decisions, decisions.

Also have a lead on some dash refinishing. While I could send it out, i will try, on one of my clusters, one of the DIY chrome processes..... Probably THEN have to send out one for professional work.

 

[Miranthis]

Found my original backing plates for the rear end. they were stripped. I did find a good set from a member here and have them on the way. I will be cleaning up the original ones and passing them along to someone that needs them.

In another post on the site there was discussion of Air Cleaner decals. A non-zero number of folks have 273 4bbl engines whose Air Cleaner does not 'match', i.e, a Dodge with a Commando 273 air cleaner, or a Plymouth with a Charger 273. My Barracuda has been in the family since new, (slightly convoluted, but my dad's best friend bought the car and then sold it not that long after to my dad when he moved away). I learned to drive in it in 1982. It had the "Charger 273 Four Barrel" air cleaner and the "Commando V8" fender badge. Dad said that it was asked about on delivery and they just shrugged their shoulders. Anyway, the decal was pretty worn out by the 80's and I discovered Hemmings Motor News. I combed it for parts and found the replacement decals. I bought the correct "Commando 273" decal and put it on.

Now, these 43 odd years later, the replacement decal is also a bit worn.

The car is on the rotisserie and the engine being rebuilt, so the dilemma presents itself: do I continue with the "correct" Commando decal or do I recreate the "factory mistake" of the Charger 273 decal? I mean if anyone has a spare chrome Air Cleaner I could do both

So, opinions one way or the other? I am keeping the car essentially factory appearing, using factory 14 inch wheels, and only a few non-hidden changes like ignition and, at least until I get my original re-cored, an aluminum radiator. She is a Non-Formula S , Commando 4bbl, 4spd Car as you can read in the signiture line below, so she is an oddity already. Do I play into it, or not?

 

[mygasser]

i'd say get a second air cleaner lid to restore fitting the 'charger 273' decal as it came new. then keep the 'commando 273' lid as a wall hanger as it is the original part to the car.
neil.

 

[Miranthis]

i'd say get a second air cleaner lid to restore fitting the 'charger 273' decal as it came new. then keep the 'commando 273' lid as a wall hanger as it is the original part to the car.
neil.

That is a good idea, but the laughing smiley emoji I used was because almost any other part i could need for the car has been obtainable, even the valve covers if you need them. The Chrome air cleaner, not so much. But it is an option that I may do if i can find one at some point. What I MAY do is have an image of the "other one" on a story board and describe the car's history. I already have toe have a board that describes the "original equipment" and the things I add, like the rear defrost, 4 way flashers, and (hopefully) front discs, etc. I had planned a "this is the actual fender tag and this is what it WOUDL have looked like with all these options" explainer board.

 

[mygasser]

is there no other air cleaner top the same shape/size that you could have chromed?
neil.

 

[Miranthis]

is there no other air cleaner top the same shape/size that you could have chromed?
neil.

Yep, but with the price of chroming.....