soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
Is the gear selector on the 67 Barracuda column shifter lighted?
1967 Barracuda - Column Shifter light?
- Thread starter soonercruiser
- Start date
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Yes
Last edited:
soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
DUH! I forgot to look at my wiring diagram. Bad habits are hard to break.
Is the bulb accessible without pulling the steering wheel?
I would hope so BUT I don't know. Never had to replace it.
I am sure there is a procedure in the FSM but I did not dig to deeply into it.
I am sure there is a procedure in the FSM but I did not dig to deeply into it.
I am pretty sure you have to pull the steering wheel. Mine burnt out recently, and after examining it I couldn’t see any other means of access. The FSM is uncharacteristically mum on this subject. I found my puller, now I am just waiting for my other car to get out of the paint shop before I bust into it.
soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
Since this topic is NOT covered in the service manual, I thought I would post a how-to based on my recent experience.
Step 1: Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Step 2: Remove the center boss from the horn ring by giving it a 1/4 turn counter-clockwise.
Step 3: Unplug the horn wire.
Step 4: Remove three small screws in order to remove the horn ring.
Step 5: Use a 3/4" socket to remove the steering wheel nut.
Step 6: This is where the puller comes in. Mine calls itself a harmonic balancer puller, but it works fine for this.
You need to supply a pair of roughly 3" bolts that will thread into the steering wheel hub (the shiny ones in the picture). Puller in action looks like this:
This one takes a 7/8" socket. It only took about one turn to pop it loose.
Step 7: Remove two screws to detach the lamp holder. It can be tricky to weasel it out around the various obstacles.
Step 8: Disassemble the lamp holder to access the lamp. The blue dome should just pull right off, but if it doesn't, it doesn't matter, because you don't really need to remove it at all.
The thing you have to remove is the lamp socket, and all you have to grip is the narrow rim at the base. But it is only a press fit and once you get it started it should come right out.
Once that is out, you can remove the lamp in the usual manner, by pressing in and giving it a counter-clockwise twist.
The bulb is a #1445. Mine looked brand new, although I can't recall ever replacing it in 40 years of ownership. Go figure. The screwy thing is, it actually worked when tested. What? And the socket tested live with my circuit tester. The only thing I can figure is that it was so dim that I couldn't tell it was on (that, or the dome was so dusty). Anyway, after cleaning everything I put in a new bulb because I don't want to have to do this again soon. I checked to see it was lighting before buttoning everything back up, but it is very very hard to see it in daylight. All of the illumination is passing through a narrow slot on the back of the lamp housing, pressed up against the base of the clear PRNDL backer, and filtered through the blue dome, so it's not surprising that it isn't very bright. BTW, the purpose of the blue dome is not to make the light look blue — it just shifts the warm yellow light from the incandescent bulb toward pure white, to match the the instrument lights which also have blue filters.
And that's it... a lot of fuss to replace one small light bulb.
Step 1: Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Step 2: Remove the center boss from the horn ring by giving it a 1/4 turn counter-clockwise.
Step 3: Unplug the horn wire.
Step 4: Remove three small screws in order to remove the horn ring.
Step 5: Use a 3/4" socket to remove the steering wheel nut.
Step 6: This is where the puller comes in. Mine calls itself a harmonic balancer puller, but it works fine for this.
You need to supply a pair of roughly 3" bolts that will thread into the steering wheel hub (the shiny ones in the picture). Puller in action looks like this:
This one takes a 7/8" socket. It only took about one turn to pop it loose.
Step 7: Remove two screws to detach the lamp holder. It can be tricky to weasel it out around the various obstacles.
Step 8: Disassemble the lamp holder to access the lamp. The blue dome should just pull right off, but if it doesn't, it doesn't matter, because you don't really need to remove it at all.
The thing you have to remove is the lamp socket, and all you have to grip is the narrow rim at the base. But it is only a press fit and once you get it started it should come right out.
Once that is out, you can remove the lamp in the usual manner, by pressing in and giving it a counter-clockwise twist.
The bulb is a #1445. Mine looked brand new, although I can't recall ever replacing it in 40 years of ownership. Go figure. The screwy thing is, it actually worked when tested. What? And the socket tested live with my circuit tester. The only thing I can figure is that it was so dim that I couldn't tell it was on (that, or the dome was so dusty). Anyway, after cleaning everything I put in a new bulb because I don't want to have to do this again soon. I checked to see it was lighting before buttoning everything back up, but it is very very hard to see it in daylight. All of the illumination is passing through a narrow slot on the back of the lamp housing, pressed up against the base of the clear PRNDL backer, and filtered through the blue dome, so it's not surprising that it isn't very bright. BTW, the purpose of the blue dome is not to make the light look blue — it just shifts the warm yellow light from the incandescent bulb toward pure white, to match the the instrument lights which also have blue filters.
And that's it... a lot of fuss to replace one small light bulb.
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