1969 Dart Pro touring daily driver **Crashed**

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agreed, as you say the seats are fine for now. they do look more suited to a subaru imprezza or a mitsubishi evo though, lol. :poke: :lol:
neil.
Right they look like something out of a Fast and furious movie, good thing that taste develops I guess!
 
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I have been dragging my feet with updating this thread but there has been progress.

After getting the car mostly repaired from the crash the next step was to look at the engine and drivetrain again.
I bought the car with a tuned 360 and a Torquefite 727 which was a good combination but always had some issue with it from leaking oil and freeze plugs to stripped bolts and chronic overheating as a result of some sort of internal crack.

The crash that happened as a result of a sticky throttle right after the engine was reinstalled by a workshop was the final straw. A condition to repairing the car was that this thing was not going back into it. It was sold to a guy for 17500SEK or about 1900USD who would use it for parts or rebuilt it himself.

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The question that followed was what should take its place. I had three conditions:
  • It had to be an aluminium v8
  • t56 manual transmission
  • Fuel injection
The aluminium block requirement was non negotiable for me as weight is the enemy of all performance, acceleration, brakes turning etc. Especially when trying to improve handling having an iron lump up front was just not going to cut it.
This one requirement however really cut options down. The obvious choice of the Gen III HEMI was out of question due to the iron block, leaving the only engine viable as the viper v10 which unfortunately was out of budget.

The engine that came out on top was pretty a pretty obvious choice but will annoy a lot of people on this forum, the Ls1 with a t56.
The engine and trans came out of a 2000 Trans Am with 112,000miles or 180,000km and was bought for 70,000SEK or about 8000USD.

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This engine choice will inevitably cause much grief as many cannot the stand the idea of mixing brands. I personally don't mind too much and think that removing the torsion bars and swapping to coil overs removes far more of the cars soul than the thing that spins the wheels, but each to their own.

I also plan on keeping this car forever so some day I might engine swap again if Dodge comes out with an aluminium v8 or I can afford the v10, this engine could then go into a different car. At the end of the day it is a part and parts can be changed.

To make the engine fit the first problem is the oil pan, ls1 sumps come as front or rear sump but the car needs a centre sump. To solve this many people heavily cut the k member but this is something I was completely unwilling do to for obvious structural reasons.

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The solution for this came from Sikky manufacturing with their very expensive mid sump oil pan with gates , after paying shipping and high taxes in Europe it might be the most expensive oil pan ever but was key to make the engine fit in.

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I didn't want any more engine issues so although the engine did run when pulled from the car in a US I sent it off to a guy who was happy to go through it for me.

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Upon tearing the engine down there were a couple of discoveries.
According to the engine builder the engine had been rebuilt before but not very well. He was however happy to go through everything and make sure it was done right this time.
The o ring for the dip stick was misaligned and the heads were the same but had different casting numbers which apparently isn't terrible but far from ideal meaning these would need to be changed. The crank had also been already been machined .010.

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The other more positive discoveries were that the engine already had a GM Hot cam and SpeedPro pistons which were in good condition and could be reused.
The plan was to add a mild street cam to bring the power up to about 400hp which this cam should be capable of delivering.

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A new RAM HDX clutch and billet flywheel were also installed.

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I went with most of the recommendations the engine builder had and ended up with the following specs.

  • Reused in engine:
Speedpro pistons
GM Hot cam
Crankshaft already machined .010
Valves + springs

  • New in engine:
Ls6 243/799 heads (better flow + a little higher compression)
Bolts
Trunnion rocker arm kit
EGR delete
Sensors: O2, cam, crank, knock
Waterpump + pulley
Alternator
Crankshaft pulley, power steering pump pulley
Thermostat
BP Automotive Ls1 Gen3 stand-alone harness
ICT Billet adapter kit for sensors
Serpentine DAYCO 5060790DR
Dip stick GM 12570788
Intake air temperature sensor GM 213243
K&N air filter

  • Drivetrain:
New throwout bearing + clutch master cylinder
New pilot bearing
Billet flywheel
RAM HDX clutch
T56 yoke
 
This engine choice will inevitably cause much grief as many cannot the stand the idea of mixing brands. I personally don't mind too much and think that removing the torsion bars and swapping to coil overs removes far more of the cars soul than the thing that spins the wheels, but each to their own.

Gotta say, I think you are rationalizing your choice. The motor is much more indicative of the soul of the car than the suspension. Look at the guy that ran a Duster at the Ford, GM and Mopar events by switching between a Coyote, LS and G3 for each. The only requirement was the motor had to match the brand of the event. People can easily cross over to other brand specific events based on the engine, but arguing that the suspension is still Mopar probably won't get you into a Mopar specific event.

Regardless, you had criteria you wanted for your car and I can't argue that it would have been hard to meet the requirement of an aluminum block another way. There were aluminum G3 blocks, but I have no idea where you might get one now nor how much they would cost. And anything else would have probably had fewer than 8 cylinders.

Even more importantly, it's your car and I would rather see you stay motivated on it instead of leaving it on jack stands. Might not be how I would do it, but it's not my car. I know I am doing things to mine that people shake their heads at, so... :D

If you haven't seen this thread, before, maybe it would be helpful. He did an LS/T56 swap on his Duster.

1970 Duster AlterKtion, 4 Link, LS/T56/Turbo and Minitub
 
Gotta say, I think you are rationalizing your choice. The motor is much more indicative of the soul of the car than the suspension. Look at the guy that ran a Duster at the Ford, GM and Mopar events by switching between a Coyote, LS and G3 for each. The only requirement was the motor had to match the brand of the event. People can easily cross over to other brand specific events based on the engine, but arguing that the suspension is still Mopar probably won't get you into a Mopar specific event.

Regardless, you had criteria you wanted for your car and I can't argue that it would have been hard to meet the requirement of an aluminum block another way. There were aluminum G3 blocks, but I have no idea where you might get one now nor how much they would cost. And anything else would have probably had fewer than 8 cylinders.

Even more importantly, it's your car and I would rather see you stay motivated on it instead of leaving it on jack stands. Might not be how I would do it, but it's not my car. I know I am doing things to mine that people shake their heads at, so... :D

If you haven't seen this thread, before, maybe it would be helpful. He did an LS/T56 swap on his Duster.

1970 Duster AlterKtion, 4 Link, LS/T56/Turbo and Minitub

I hear you and think that most people would agree more with your way of thinking.! I just love the torsion bars and think its one of the coolest features on these cars.

Good to see another build as reference, I also found the link to the guy you mentioned, its pretty wild and certainly jumping through loop holes.
https://www.holley.com/blog/post/_7..._ls_hemi_and_coyote_engines_for_holley_fests/
 
Good to see another build as reference, I also found the link to the guy you mentioned, its pretty wild and certainly jumping through loop holes.
https://www.holley.com/blog/post/_7..._ls_hemi_and_coyote_engines_for_holley_fests/

I hadn't seen that article before.

In case you weren't aware, he is a YouTuber and has a whole series on the car:



He went through what he thought about each motor here:



Another option for you to get an aluminum block would have have been a Coyote, but based on his comments and watching the videos, it's not a real option. So I didn't make a comment about it. :)
 
My friend let me drive his '98 Firebird Formula 350 with the LS1 and 6 spd. Its an outstanding engine / trans combo. GM engines in mopars is not for me but its gonna be a great running car. Maybe slide in a cam and long tube headers?

Isn't there a thread on here a guy dropped an LS with turbo into a Duster with a 6 spd? He wanted a cheap engine with high parts availability and turbo LS are a proven combo.
 
My friend let me drive his '98 Firebird Formula 350 with the LS1 and 6 spd. Its an outstanding engine / trans combo. GM engines in mopars is not for me but its gonna be a great running car. Maybe slide in a cam and long tube headers?

Yep, his motor came with an upgrade cam. Not sure on headers, but betting they will be required to get it in the car.

Isn't there a thread on here a guy dropped an LS with turbo into a Duster with a 6 spd? He wanted a cheap engine with high parts availability and turbo LS are a proven combo.

Sounds like the thread in the link in post #154?
 
My friend let me drive his '98 Firebird Formula 350 with the LS1 and 6 spd. Its an outstanding engine / trans combo. GM engines in mopars is not for me but its gonna be a great running car. Maybe slide in a cam and long tube headers?

Isn't there a thread on here a guy dropped an LS with turbo into a Duster with a 6 spd? He wanted a cheap engine with high parts availability and turbo LS are a proven combo.

Great to hear, I'm looking forward to it. I looked at your build a lot to see how to fit the t56, nice work.
 
The next step was obviously to get the engine and transmission in the car. My initial thought was that I would do it myself but given the amount of time I have to work on the car and the slow progress on the car in general I started to look for someone who could do it.

It turned out that the engine builder was happy to do it which was ideal because he could take care of wiring and the initial start up, two things I don't feel very confident in doing.

So the car was sent to follow the engine.
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I was lucky to find 99 Camaro pedals from a nearby junkyard which were also sent.

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With that the engine swap was really underway.

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To fit the t56 the trans tunnel needs to be enlarged.

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The transmission cross member also needs to be cut out and enlarged (I don't have a photo of the top hoop at this stage).

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Engine mounts were also fabricated.

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I asked him to place the engine as low and as far back as reasonably possible for the best possible weight distribution and centre of gravity while not compromising serviceability and going "too far".
The fitment proved tighter than I had expected especially considering the smaller Borgerson steering box. The engine builder had some headers that he hoped would fit but did not, we made the call to go with stock manifolds for now, with a car that was crashed and has been off the road for years I was happy to make the compromise and move on.
I have better photos which I will post later showing exactly how all clearances ended up.

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I had not realised until researching engine swaps that the engines in these cars are not centred and slightly offset to the passenger side.
The engine and gearbox were installed at the standard 3 degree angle from what I can recall.

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I was given the option of a rounded or more square/rectangular transmission tunnel, I went with rounded as I figured it would be easier to fit the carpet later on.

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An submerged Aaeromotive fuel pump was added to the fuel tank.
At some point in the history of the car it was rebuilt by someone who opted for Volvo parts which is hardly surprising for Sweden.
The tank, old seats and brake booster + cylinder all seem to be from a Volvo Amazon.

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The previous photos have been from the engine builder who rebuilt the engine, carried out the swap and did the start up/initial break in procedure.
At this point I got the car back which was like Christmas on turbo mode, very exciting.

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The excitement was slightly short lived when I hoped up on the car transportation to unload.
I turned the key, the fuel pump primed and it cranked with a healthy voltage but did not start. I tried a few more times until randomly it started and instantly came to life.

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The fabrication, installation, cable + hose routing etc. looked awesome but it only started randomly. Sometimes immediately and sometimes not at all without a 30 minute break.

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What followed was a intermittent start issue where I did the trouble shooting with support from the guy who did the engine swap. I guess it was my punishment for trying to avoid doing the electrical work myself.
His theory was mostly based on low voltage to the ECU although it seemed to be healthy. After I while could not diagnose any further and was leaving the country again. I managed to get him to travel 5 hours to come and inspect it himself. He checked the sensors (such as crank position which can cause this issue) and added more battery cables to give the ECU a higher voltage.

In the end he improved the situation to become a slightly more reliable intermittent start but did not solve it. He tried invoice me for the material (which was not much compared to what the travel + labour would have been) but I declined and decided to call it quits. The rebuild and swap did not come cheap so I think there should have been some more testing done before giving the car back to me.

I was at least very happy with the installation work but was obviously really disappointed to somehow still have engine issues.

A problem here was that I went with his budget friendly advice of keeping the stock ECU mapped with HP Tuners and a BP automotive stand alone harness. Another surprise came with the fact that he had installed a tweaked base tune, the car can run and drive on it but should not be run on full throttle in case it is too lean. Once more roadworthy it would have to be mapped once more which was now only possible with the HP Tuners platform, something I was not aware of at the time.
So, the rest was to be solved in some other way. More to come.
 
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Glad you have the car back, sorry to hear about the problems. I guess when treading into uncharted territories, it's live and learn. Sometimes that gets expensive. I would not have any ideas about the ECU and other stuff. Lucky to get a carb running right and a distributor curved properly.
 
Glad you have the car back, sorry to hear about the problems. I guess when treading into uncharted territories, it's live and learn. Sometimes that gets expensive. I would not have any ideas about the ECU and other stuff. Lucky to get a carb running right and a distributor curved properly.
Thanks and yes exactly, you live and learn.
 
As part of the plan to fix the car I wanted to bring the car to Ireland where I actually live. This would be a game changer and mean I could actually work on the on a regular basis.
I was very lucky to be able to send the car with my work almost for free as transports regularly go between the two countries and this time there was some space left over on a trailer.

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The car arriving at the unit where the car will be stored.

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Ireland has almost no classic American cars. Its not guaranteed but I would be confident in saying it is the only 1969 Dart in the country, maybe even the only mopar a body.

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With the car properly assecible I could take some photos which might be useful for someone else doing this engine swap.
The Sikky mid sump pan works well.

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Here you can clearly see how offset the engine is to one side.

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The new fabricated transmission cross member, nice and tight not hanging down.

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The power steering cooler was (supplied by Peter Bergman together with the other suspension parts) and the remote oil filter nicely tucked away but easily accessible.

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Engine mounts were made solid due to the tight clearance on each side of the engine. I was pleasantly surprised how little vibration comes through the car, I always imagined solid mounts would be harsh.

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A new stock hydraulic cylinder for the F body pedal assembly was used.

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Tight clearance on the drivers side so I want to add a heat shield down the line. The power steering hoses were modified to go from the Borgeson box and the stock Ls1 power steering pump. The Ls1 pump provides a little too high pressure and flow rate so I need to address this. Steering is quite light but feels good, I am however worried about damaging the Borgeson box in the long run.
The passenger side is just as tight, I think people who have done this swap have commented that there was reasonable space but for anyone doing this I'm not sure how this would work with the larger stock power steering box.

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Next up was revisiting the exhaust. The photo below shows the temporary exhaust made with the mufflers I already had. I sent the complete old exhaust with the car when its engine was being swapped just in case it was needed but the car came back without it. This was annoying as it meant I had to buy materials and build a new system from scratch.

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The downpipes the guy made hung a bit too low for me so I removed them and raised them somewhat, the photo below shows the before.
When I bought the car originally it came with extremely low hanging Flowtech headers which I think made me never want to hear an exhaust scrape ever again hence going though the trouble to tuck it up as much as possible.

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The rest of the exhaust was built from bends and straight parts.
It took a lot more time than expected to build. The muffler positioning and over the rear axle part was most difficult and took a lot of positioning, moving etc.

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At the rear of the mufflers there was a spot which came quite close to the floor.

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On the old pre crash exhaust system the mufflers also sat quite close to the floor, I noticed the paint had been burned away leading to some surface rust. This time the mufflers would perhaps be even closer so I decided to try some heat management.

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I sanded the floor clean and painted which some epoxy paint on hand.

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Then installed the quite expensive reflective foil.

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To further help I wrapped the mufflers after soaking the bandage in water.

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Wrapping mufflers like this is supposed to reduce their lifespan due to condensation so I'm thinking I will swap this for a heat shield like muffler armour that only covers the top later on. The pipe was also wrapped here due to it coming close to the fuel lines.

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re the fuel lines, you're better off wrapping them than the exhaust. you can get an insulating sleeve to slip over then once disconnected at the tank.
neil.

That's the plan but I didn't have the right materials on hand so I will be adding a second heat shield for the time being.
 
Up front the exhaust routing came close to the oil filter lines so I added some wrap here, I might add something else later but figured it would be good enough for now.

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I went for a H-pipe to get a little more torque in lower RPM and to give a deeper sound. This was wrapped so that the rubber transmission shaft seal wouldn't get too hot.

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I welded a rod to an exhaust clamp so that these hangers would have some adjustment.

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A second set of exhaust hangers right after the mufflers but difficult to see.

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A heat shield to help keep heat from the fuel lines, I would like to redo this but its what I had on hand and should do for now.
Here you can see that it just about goes above the bump stop, I'm a little worried about the shock but hope that it will work out.

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Maybe overkill but an insulating sleeve was to the brake line here.

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The rear exhaust hangers which are not pretty but should be functional.

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That's the exhaust wrapped up. I spent a lot of time to get the exhaust nice and high for good ground clearance and have no risk of scraping.

The front mufflers are the Flowmaster 50 series delta flow which were installed previously and at the rear new Simons mufflers were added so get noise under control.
The first mufflers are chambered and the second absorptive which should apparently give a good sound characteristic.

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Once the exhaust was done I went ahead and installed the grill, lights and new bumper which I think is from a 67.

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I also finally got around to swapping the crashed ball joints, I ordered drum brake ones by mistake and had to buy another set.
That's the second time I ran into drum brake ball joints with the smaller bolt holes, for anyone doing this its something to watch out for.

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During the exhaust build the car also got registered in Ireland and got its new number plates.
Here plates clearly state the year of the car hence why it stats with 69.
The exhaust tips can be seen here higher up and shorter than the old exhaust system.

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I got bigger droop stops for the SPC control arms but they were not big enough so Ill have to find something else.

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The seat and seatbelt were reinstalled as well as installed rubber gromets in any holes I could find in the floor.

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Then it was testing and engine break in time!
It felt pretty monumental to actually be driving this car again after all the years sitting. The reactions from people were pretty priceless as cars like this are incredibly rare here.
To my surprise everything worked well, the engine runs cool, no leaks etc. The exhaust sounded great although louder than expected inside the car.
The car pulls to the right but it has not been aligned so I think there might be more negative caster on the left side.

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