1969 Dart Swinger

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Max Max Wedge

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Location
SLC, Utah
Well I went to look at my next project today. 69 Swinger 340 4spd car. Current owner is the second owner (since January this year). Car is B5 blue, White Vinyl top, looks like maybe a stripe delete car. It has the fender tag & build sheet. I remember this car when I was growing up (born in 64). The car has everything that was originally on the car minus the 340. I get a 73 340 but it has two cylinders that have hairline cracks in them that have been sleeved and guaranteed by the machine shop for 3 years 30K miles. What are your thoughts on rebuilding the sleeved 340? I will be picking up the car next Saturday and bringing it home. More pics then. The 63 belongs to the buddy of mine that I am buying the Dart from.

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Nice project. Nothing wrong with sleeves if they were installed properly.
 
That Dart has the same steering wheel as my 69 Dart.Look forward to your progresssssss.Looks like a solid car to me.
 
I'm bringing the project home tomorrow. I'll take a few more pics and be able to better access what I'm in for. I don't think I want to go back with the B5 blue and White top. I posted in the general section looking for Red and or Silver paint schemes, I hope somebody comes through with some pictures.
 
Got the car home today. I got some extra parts with the car, front discs (LBP) w/control arms, proportioning valve. 65-67 B-body rear end 3.23 SG. 5 rallye wheels (LBP). 71 340, heads (?). VIN=LM23P9B204187 I spoke with the original owner last night and asked about the 68 vents on the hood. He claims that the dealer told him since this was an early production car that they used the 68 vents until they were gone. I have a few questions for you all. Is this an early production car based on the VIN? Also take a look at the picture underneath the car in front of the leaf sring, is this a torque box? What year is the intake manifold? Here are a few more pictures.

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Torque box??????
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That is a torque box.

BTW - I HATE YOU!

J/K

Neat car and a good looking project.
 
B5 Blue and White is a hard combo to beat!
 
What do you guys think about this being an early production car with 68 vents, could that be true? I just decoded the fender tag:

LM23:
Dodge Dart,Demon
Medium
2 Door Hardtop

P9B: 340 275HP 1-4BBL 8 CYL
1969
Dodge Main, Hamtramck, MI, USA

204187: Sequence number

E55: 340 cid 4 barrel V8 275hp
D21: 4 Speed Manual Transmission
B5: Bright Blue Metallic Exterior Color
D2B: Trim - Luxury, Vinyl Bench Seat, Blue
B7: Medium Blue Metallic Int. Door Frames
B08: Build Date: November 08
092640: Order number

A46: Unknown Top Color
L31: Hood/Fender Mounted Turn Signals
M21: Roof drip rail moldings
V1W: Unknown
V88: Tranverse Stripes, Deleted
END: End of Sales Codes
 
Sequencial number in the VIN is 4187, that sounds like alot of left-over from the year before.
None the less, looks like a sweet score, #'s 4 speed.
And torque boxes.
your trans is dated Nov.7, 1969.If that's any help to you.


Right on!
 
Sequencial number in the VIN is 4187, that sounds like alot of left-over from the year before.
None the less, looks like a sweet score, #'s 4 speed.
And torque boxes.
your trans is dated Nov.7, 1969.If that's any help to you.


Right on!

Thanks for the info. November of 69 sounds like a late production 69 to me.
 
Nice Swinger, real clean from the looks of it. I would run a block that is sleeved, some might say its even stronger, as long as its done right. Good luck and have fun, look forward to pics of its resto.
 
Well I have the car down to almost a shell. I wanted to work on some body line adjustments before I put it on the rotisserie.

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I started to do some adjusting on the hood and found out in a hurry why it's body lines were off. On both of the areas where the hood contacts the front round rubber adjusters the hood has been smashed in. I figured I could just get a "J" hook in there and bring it back out with a slide hammer. The back of the hood was higher then the cowl so I figured I would adjust that first. On the very first bolt I knew there was trouble, it was a F*@&n metric bolt jammed in there. When I pulled it out I seen more issues. The area where the bolts go through the hood were torn and some pieces missing. I knew then that I would have to separate the hood skin from the frame and make the repairs. I figured what the hell, if I screw it up it's only $600, half of what I paid for the whole car. Below are the pic's of the separation and area's that need repair. This is actually a good thing, I can make the repairs to the bumper area and stregthen the hinge area as well. I'm sure the whole project will be like this, the further I get into it the further I will need to tear it down.


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