1972 Dodge Colt

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Lavern.jpg
 
This car also raced at our local truck , often and I think it may still exist around here somewhere , Reed in Nebraska had it for some time it may have gone away by now
hemikid.jpg
 
Reed and I are quite good friends, and I think he has owned a million great historical cars. He has a real historic Colt right now and the Omni.

I am still looking for pictures of my Colt.
Supposedly it won at the Kansas City car show back in the mid 70's but no pictures.

Hemi Kid Side.jpg
 
Worked on the alignment for a while.
I did one method, but didn't feel like I had it right.
So I did the string rear to front method and I like what it looks like now.
Did some work today on the engine.
Could not really get it running right.
So, I removed the regulator.
New gaskets on the carb.
Double checked for vacuum leaks.
New plugs.
Checked the dist.
Checked for spark on all the plug wires.
Checked timing, hard to do with it running poor.
Pulled the valve cover, one exhaust pushrod was out of the adjuster.
Don't know what that is yet.
Started to do a leakdown test, not finished yet.
Still have a few things to do and check.
Front end alignment (2).JPG
 
Hyper_pak said:
Worked on the alignment for a while.
I did one method, but didn't feel like I had it right.
So I did the string rear to front method and I like what it looks like now.
Did some work today on the engine.
Could not really get it running right.
So, I removed the regulator.
New gaskets on the carb.
Double checked for vacuum leaks.
New plugs.
Checked the dist.
Checked for spark on all the plug wires.
Checked timing, hard to do with it running poor.
Pulled the valve cover, one exhaust pushrod was out of the adjuster.
Don't know what that is yet.
Started to do a leakdown test, not finished yet.
Still have a few things to do and check.View attachment 1715894789
Click to expand...

I'm going to have to set a static alignment on my Dart as I'm replacing the OEM front suspension and K member with a kit from Tory Shellehamer. Did you run the string parallel with the rear tire and set your front toe so the front wheels were parallel with the string as well? I've heard guys posting here talk about the 'string and ruler' or 'garage' alignment process but could not get any details, must be a state secret!
 
Yes, used 2 heavy jackstands and aligned the string just touching the rear slick sidewalls.
Then carefully adjusted the steering arm to have as close to zero toe at the front wheels.
I found a little offset in the rear suspension, track width.
 
Just bad and ugly.
Exhaust rocker rubbing Clifford valve cover.
I think that might be a cause for the pushrod being out.
Just a little rub, only thing I can think of.
Leakdown looked good.... except number 1. NFG.
So I knew the intake seat was weak, I was hoping it would work for a while.
Maybe it didn't, maybe it's too close on clearance.
I will find out tomorrow.

Old 650, 4777, is pissing me off.
Leaks, and I can't seem to stop it from seeping from bolts and adjustment screws.
Going to see if I have an AFB till I get the Webers ready.
Just glad I didn't try to get the baseline with that complexity in the equation.

Well at least the Alternator is working good, one small victory.
I got got 8 gage wire to run back to the battery disconnect switch.
I have it on the starter now and that really is not correct for killing power.
 
Sorry to hear about the setback Stan. Can you get the head off in the car?
 
qkcuda said:
Sorry to hear about the setback Stan. Can you get the head off in the car?
Click to expand...

Yes, I am running head bolts right now, I am going to put a couple of studs in and see if I can with those in. Although I have been told you can just thread the studs out of the block since then don't go into water.
 
justinp61 said:
Keep after it Stan, good things come to those who work hard.
Click to expand...

Thanks, it was my own fault. I thought it would work.
I always say, you have to break some eggs to make an omelet.
I am working on the whole breakfast now.

I appreciate your confidence in me.
 
Well, that wasn't what I expected.
The #1 chamber has never fired, no soot, but, I don't see any problems.
Both ports hold alcohol with no leaks.
Head gasket looks fine also.
You can see on all the other chambers a little soot and a soot mark on the head gasket.
Not on 1.
So tomorrow head back on and another leak test to find something.
No 1 No Fire (4).JPG
No 1 No Fire (6).JPG
 
Hyper_pak said:
Well, that wasn't what I expected.
The #1 chamber has never fired, no soot, but, I don't see any problems.
Both ports hold alcohol with no leaks.
Head gasket looks fine also.
You can see on all the other chambers a little soot and a soot mark on the head gasket.
Not on 1.
So tomorrow head back on and another leak test to find something.
View attachment 1715895665 View attachment 1715895666
Click to expand...
Damn.......
 
Stan, can you crank the engine to see if it is firing the #1 plug?
 
Yea, I did the plug on the frame test and used the timing light, all good.
New plugs.
 
What's the compression test show on that cylinder?
 
Don't have a compression tester, I guess I should buy one.
I have a leak down tester.
You put 50 psi in the chamber and read the second gage which tells you what it is holding.
I used to use 100 psi on the 440, but this engine spins over 50 so I just double the leak #.
It's supposed to be used on a warm engine, so my leak numbers are higher.
Today after I put the head back on, I had around 8 percent leak on number 1.
With 2 different heads.
Tomorrow new cap and wires.
Get my best AFB out and start getting that cleaned and freshened
Done with the 4777.

No stuck guides, cam lift is on the money.
This short block has run 13.50's in my old Barracuda.
I have never used the head before.
 
I only had one electronic dist and I am waiting on a new trigger assembly.
Hooked up a new set of wires on a Tan Cap.
Decided on a 68 340 AVS to see how that goes.
Going through the carb now.
AVS Carb (1).JPG
 
Dist back together, new wires and home brew recurve.
Ditched the vacuum advance and fixed the advance plate.
The autozone hall effect wires were 1.5 inch short, so had to splice in some wire.
The molded rubber part did not reach the housing slot. Sigh.
The carb is clean and going back together.
Kit should be here tomorrow for the top gasket.
I remember now why I like a Carter carb, they are so simple.
Jets and metering rods are confusing and I don't have much inventory.
But this is a stock 68 340 AVS carb, and I know those carbs worked well.
Picked up an AN fitting and I am making some new fuel lines.
Hope I have corrected my running issues with these changes.

I dropped the hood at the body shop, should be white by tuesday.

Really bummed that I am not leaving for Mokan tomorrow.
But a wise man advised me that taking an untested car that far was not smart.
Still doesn't sit well with me and deadlines.
 
I really like the Holley for it's simplicity. External float level adjustment, no metering rods, and you can use a bowl that even allows external jet changes.
 
I have uesd both.
I just can't get the 650 DP I have here to quit leaking fuel.
Tried everything I know to do.
 
It seeps out the bowl screws.
It leaks around the bowl gaskets.
It leaks out the throttle shafts.
And when it sits I find fuel under the manifold and on the block.
Secondary is not as bad, but primary is pissing me off.
I put a new Holley kit in.
I put moroso no leak reusable gaskets in it twice.
I used the nylon and fiber gaskets on the bowl screws on different times.
SO I am done with it.

Anyone want one for parts? Send me a PM
 
Needle/seat? Those things are know to be junk out the box. Even back in the day ****. Junk.
 
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