1974 Dodge Dart Sport rebuild

[Builderguy]

I was going to put the motor back together but when I pulled the cam, to check on the bearings, I found some issues. PO beat the crap out of some of them. I will replace all but I sold my cam install tool, so I had to order one up and it won't be here until Friday.

Decided to mask up the car and spray the undercoating. I know, if it is good enough for the top it is good enough for the bottom. Cool, but this car was originally undercoated, so it will be again..

I have used this product twice with the same results. Very messy but works/looks great!

 

[Builderguy]

Threads all chased.
Cam bearings out and in, along with the cam. Spins just fine!
Crankshaft in and torqued, end play is .004 so I am happy!
The rings are all on and clocked, just waiting to be dunked in oil (which I didn't have on hand).
I will install them tomorrow if all goes well.

 

[Builderguy]

Just when you think you are gaining, you get hit with a roadblock!

These are my rod bearings, notice anything missing?

Yup, there are no notches for the oil squirt holes!

Glad I noticed now, when it easy to change them out.

Ordered up the correct set just now but they won't be here until Monday. Guess I can finish up the rear end instead. Always something.

 

[Builderguy]

Time to clean up the brake drum backing plates. Using, my favorite cleaner, ACID.
Total time in the acid was 8 minutes. Sitting in a water bath now. No backing soda mix this time, just straight water as the parts are small and the amount of water is considerable.

NOTE: Never use this stuff inside a building. It is hard enough to use it outside. When the liquid acid hits water (moisture in the air counts as water) it turns to hydrochloric acid fog. This is bad stuff for us humans. As a fog it will move with the air and lands on anything halfway close (like 40 feet is close enough). If your car or pole barn siding is contacted, it will eat off the finish. NOT GOOD. It had rained here today so it was humid. A cloud formed but the wind carried it away, for the most part. ADVICE: Be very careful

 

[Builderguy]

Differential should be together tonight, just waiting on some clear to dry. The white paint marks were to help me know just how much the nut was moving. After a crank of 210 foot lbs, the two white dots closest together, the next few dots show position as I closed in on the pinion preload. It started at around 2 inch pounds, so I had a little work to do. That was a bit of an odd duck as my manual said 20-35 inch lbs and the internet said 18-20 inch pounds, all while rotating. The more I looked into the numbers the more differences I found. Screw it, set it 20 inch pounds as that fell within most of the specs I saw. Getting a pic with the wrench moving is a little bit of a challenge. The rod bearings showed up so the engine can also come together now. Sometime this week it should be off the rotisserie and on it's wheels. Maybe, we will see what other hell pops up to foil my plans.

 

[jfauth]

Car looks awesome! Ex work my man. Everything looks to be coming along very nicely. Enjoyed reading and looking through your build up to this point. Can't wait to see more and especially when finished. Everything looks nice....

 

[72dustervs]

I did manage to order up the left quarter repair panel (JW, I actually did get a Goodmark piece) for an acceptable price. I also took a few more photos for the before/after comparison.
While I appreciate their attempt at exhaust work, I will never hear the sound these would have made. That pipe has got to go!!!!! Also on the go list is the rear gear. A 2.94 will not work for this build. That 904 just might stay, not sure on that yet, as a 727 is pretty easy to get. IDK. Front discs look savable, and YES there was not a lot of room to the wheel. I was pricing out the interior, and it is not as cheap as I remember. Been a few sleeps since I last priced checked, so I get it. Do not like it, but not much I can do about it. Switching white to black does not matter, same price and the same amount of work. I have a few projects in the shop to finish, then I can flip the switch to full time on this. We'll see how it goes!

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I ordered my seat covers from legendary interiors and it took around 9 months or so has they make them when ordered , great covers but the wait time sucks

 

[72dustervs]

A lot has happened to the Dart in the last 3 weeks or so and I will post pics shortly. Right now I have a quick question concerning the 1974 vs 1973 bucket seat frames. I know the
seat covers are a little different (the type of vinyl grain used). The 74 has the sides and back one grain (Oxford) and the insert, a different grain (Shallow Elk) ; while the 73 also had two different grains (not shown with arrows) but they were Coachman and Elk. I really don't see that much difference in grain but there is some. That is not my current situation. I would like to put a 1973 bucket seat cover over a 1974 seat. I have both parts books but I could not locate the seat frame to verify they are the same. Figured I would ask you "A" body experts. Are are the 73 and 74 frames the same; and, are the seat foams the same? Thank you all in advance.


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The seat frames are the same in 73 to 75 , even e-bodies an some b-bodies are the same , just different foam and covers , I used 73 cuda frames , replaced the foam and moved a rod that welded in top area to line with duster seat covers , worked great with the foam your looking at

 

[Builderguy]

Man, two weeks went by fast.
The brakes are done, and the rear end is back together.

 

[Builderguy]

The correct rod bearings showed up and the motor is just about done.

Pistons are in, but not without some drama, they sent the wrong oil rings.
New timing chain and sprockets are in.
Those exhaust smog air holes were, drilled, tapped, and plugged.
New oil pump and old pan are on.
Lifters were torn down, cleaned, inspected, put back together, primed, and put in their proper holes. I am re-using the cam and lifters so they had to go back in the holes they came from.
Just waiting to decide on what intake to use.

 

[Builderguy]

On to the intake. I have 4 choices,

well actually 3 as the one on the far right is for my 340 Challenger (#3614025) but I have a second #3614025 that I think is older as the normal casting number is missing (or not it the usual spot). Here is that number.

That one is the second from the right and looks like a metal beaver got to it.

The next one, third from the right, is the one that was on the 360 when purchased (#4100340) which is for a 1979-1991 360, cast in 1974.

The remaining one is from 1985 (#can't remember where that came from) and is also
number 4100340.

Leaning toward the older (maybe older) #3614025 even with the very poor clearance job.
Less of the anti smog crap to contend with. The water ports are slightly different but they will fit all the A/C stuff without an issue. Not sure on the throttle linkage but I am sure something can be made if the linkage I have does not work.

Anyway, two questions: Anyone know what the stamped number 6291 or 5291 means? Thought it was the 10,000 day Calander but it doesn't seem to fit.

Second: Thoughts on putting an older 340 intake on a set of 1979 360 heads?

Thanks in advance

Ray

 

[JDMopar]

The older 340 intake will work just fine, if you aren't saving it for another car. Lay your intake gaskets up against the head and then the intake to make sure the ports match pretty close....which they should. I'd rather use the clearanced 340 intake than use one of the smog intakes. I have no idea what those numbers mean. You're rolling along on it......getting closer every day!

 

[mpgmike]

I see you have 2 intakes with no EGR port in the plenum floor (older) and 2 with the EGR ports. Since you plugged the ports in the heads under the exhaust ports, I'd opt for an older non-EGR intake for your application.

 

[Builderguy]

Decision made: Using the metal beaver clearanced one. Thanks for the input! Needed to be cleaned up so I checked if that stripper, CITRISTRIP, was still in the house. Yup, she was in the backroom, so I invited her to the garage and let her work. As expected, just about all the paint was removed.

BEFORE/AFTER

There was some surface rust left inside the runners and I did not want to use the sand blaster (would take forever to get the sand out, if all even came out). Soooo, you know me, I used ACID. It did not take 5 minutes to get the runners clean, at least clean enough that no rust particles will enter the cylinder.

BEFORE/AFTER

Not perfect but it should flow well enough.

Install it, tape off the openings, and paint this engine. PROGRESS

 

[Builderguy]

Intake installed, both throttle brackets installed, and everything torqued. The valve covers are from a 79, I think, just there to keep the dirt out. I have a set of 72 318 covers, so I will clean them up, install, and paint it all Mopar blue. I will put the fuel pump on later, as I don't think it was painted with the engine, IIRC.

 

[JDMopar]

Fuel pump wasn't painted, but the bypass hose was. I personally wouldn't paint the hose either, because after several heat/cool cycles they look like Fido's butt...lol.

 

[Builderguy]

Painted, one more box checked off. I know, bypass hose was left off.

 

[Builderguy]

Let's see if we can have a shotgun wedding for these two!

The converter must be in all the way as the measurement is at spec of 1/2" or more.

Still curious about the "HS LOCK UP" though. None the less, it is going in.

 

[Builderguy]

The A/C parts were not on the engine when I got the car. They were in the trunk, in boxes with a bunch of other car parts. I think I pieced it together correctly. Looks like twin belts for the crank, alternator, and A/C routing (the alignment looks off but it is just the camera angle). Then a single belt for the crank, fan, and power steering. Looks like they line up correctly on both paths. If anyone see something wrong with this, please chime in, otherwise I will clean, paint, and final this. Again, this is a 1974 360 that had factory air. Thanks Ray

 

[JDMopar]

I see what you mean about the alternator not looking like it lines up right with the crank pulley. You can use a straight edge to double check. Line it up behind the back groove of the crank pulley so it makes as much contact as possible, then slide it up behind the back alternator pulley. Usually, it is the alternator that is a little off, being too far back. A spacer washer or 3 will cure that if it exists.

 

[JDMopar]

I forgot to add....your transmission is probably a later 998 or 999 lockup version of a 904. Nothing wrong with that or any extra wiring to do. The torque converter locks up automatically thru hydraulic pressure. If you haven't already bolted the trans to the motor, lay your flex plate against the converter and make all 4 holes line up. Then mark one hole on the flex plate (doesn't matter which one) and also the converter at that same hole. When you put the flex plate to converter bolts in, line the 2 marks up and put that bolt in first. I usually just hit the flex plate and converter with a shot of spray paint to mark it. The converter will only line up one way, so that is how to get it right the first time without having to rotate it and hope it lines up on the next try...lol. Hope that makes sense and hope it helps.

 

[Builderguy]

Here are few pics I forgot to add. I love acid but I left the rear hanger in for a couple of days. It did not harm it, but it was very clean.

BEFORE

AFTER 30 minutes

Upper Control arms are in

Springs cleaned and ready

 

[TF360]

Looking good!

 

[Builderguy]

Got the belts figured out and installed. Yay!!!!! That small fan that the car had installed was not correct, so I stole one off my Challenger that is correct. As soon as the paint is dry I can install it. I will order a replacement for the Challenger later, time is money right now and I am running out of both. This rebuild is getting a little $$$$$$$$$$. Next is the heat/air unit.

 

[Builderguy]

Heat/AC unit taken apart, cleaned, leak checked, foam pieces glued back in, and reassembled. That air box will be installed shortly, as soon as I find the insulation kit. I have already started on the dash rebuild as seen in the background.