Work on the dash is moving along, but slowly. I will clean all the mechanicals, paint the frame, lube all the moving parts, replace the broken stuff, and restore what is under the plastic gauge cover. At least that is the plan. One has to have a plan, to see where it all went to crap! Right
On a side note, I have to give a shout out to InLine Tube. I have used several of their products and have had zero issues with them. The most recent was the fuel pump to carb fuel line. My old one was just brake line bent to a shape that resembled the west coast and was set up for an Edelbrock carb. Anyway, I ordered a new line and it came in a couple of days (not bad since it was the weekend and Veteran's Day). It fit great, no extra bending required. Plug and play, so to speak. They are a US based company (Michigan) so I already like them. Keep it up!
Heap big trouble now!!!! It appears that my throttle linkage setup is incorrect. It appears that I have the brackets for a 318 2 bbl set up.
Like this:
When I need the setup for 360 (but the 1974 book does not show a 360 4bbl).
So I might have to use the 400 and 440 setup like this. IDK
This is what I have now:
But when you try and add a throttle cable, it is at too much of an angle.
I have a set up off my Challenger, which was a 340, converted to 318 (I don't know why) that looks to have retained it's 340 carb linkage.
Just another fine mess I got myself into!
If you have a 74 360 4bbl, could you please send a pic of what it is supposed to look like.
Heat/AC unit taken apart, cleaned, leak checked, foam pieces glued back in, and reassembled. That air box will be installed shortly, as soon as I find the insulation kit. I have already started on the dash rebuild as seen in the background.
looks like the throttle cable should be the other side of the stud on the bracket, it'd straighten it out a lot for sure clamped the other side (closer to the camera). also the silver coloured part of outer cable should be clamped.
neil.
You need a 3-piece 4BBL setup. The important parts are the kick down rod and the bracket. The rest of what you have works fine, but those 2 two parts are different.
You could bend the cable mount up to get it close, but if it were me, I would find the right parts.
This says up to '73, but I think they are all the same.
I took the throttle/kickdown linkage off my challenger and tried it out for size/function. I think this is what I need. The actual kickdown rod needs a little adjusting but I think it will work. Looks like everything lines up and fits except the throttle spring(s) bracket. May need a different one that leans a lot more to the left.
I took the throttle/kickdown linkage off my challenger and tried it out for size/function. I think this is what I need. The actual kickdown rod needs a little adjusting but I think it will work. Looks like everything lines up and fits except the throttle spring(s) bracket. May need a different one that leans a lot more to the left.
I could be wrong, but I bet the one piece kickdown rod will hit the firewall and not allow the throttle to open. A-Bodies never had the one piece like that because of the proximity to the firewall.
I could be wrong, but I bet the one piece kickdown rod will hit the firewall and not allow the throttle to open. A-Bodies never had the one piece like that because of the proximity to the firewall.
You could be right!!!! I did not think about any clearance issues as I took it off the Challenger and there was a ton of room. Got a little mission focused.
Sucks because I just got it all cleaned up and working perfect. The three point linkage does hug the motor. I will get with @hemi71x to see if there is a 360/340 4 BBL bracket that sets the throttle cable over further to the left than the 318 bracket that I have. Thank You
This is apparently the bracket I need for the 4 bbl setup. It puts the throttle cable much further to the left and more forward than what I have. The rest of the three point rods should work. Thanks again for the help and suggestions.
This is apparently the bracket I need for the 4 bbl setup. It puts the throttle cable much further to the left and more forward than what I have. The rest of the three point rods should work. Thanks again for the help and suggestions.
before refitting the dash maybe consider painting both the bulkhead behind there and the backside of the dash itself white. it's unseen once assembled but if you ever need to look for issues be they wiring or whatever you'll find it easier to see up behind there.
neil.
Could not put off the chore I dislike the most, COLOR SANDING. It gives the clear coat a mirror like finish (I hope), but it is the most boring chore on this rebuild. You just sand and sand and sand and sand again, going up in grit after each round. I don't like it, not one bit; I don't like to sand this ****. Anyway, round 1 was fine. There was not much orange peel at all, and what there was of it, was very light. I skipped the 1000 grit and went right to 1500 grit. Remember, I hate sanding clear! Then the QC Boss came out and started putting her green tape everywhere. So much tape, I just did the whole body again with 1500 grit for round 2. No more green tape! "PERFECT" I will finish with 2000 grit tomorrow. If all goes well, meaning I am still in a good mood, I will start to buff.
Third and final round of sanding (2000 grit) done. And no, I did not buff it today. That would take an entire day and I got a late start today. Spent some time with that QC girl trying to get her to lighten up a little. Anyway, I did have time to look at the wheels. I wanted to paint them today but noticed one of them had some pretty good pits, the rest were fine. So I filled those pits, sanded the rest of the wheels, and re-sprayed them all with epoxy. Now I am on the clock as I only have 72 hours to get the final paint sprayed or I have to sand them again, and that is a PIA. To sum things up, I am currently refurbishing the dash, about to buff the body, working on the carb linkage, getting the steering column ready for install, prepping the master cylinder, fixing the worn door hinges, making a stand for the rear end install, and trying to keep the wife somewhat happy as Thanksgiving gets closer. Fun times around here. Anybody want to buy a partially finished project? LOL
The headliner needs to go in pretty soon so I better get on it. I tried to fix the mouse damage but the repair is not up to my standards. The damage was still noticeable due to the change in texture and the undulating surface. Soooo, lets try something else. I will sand the spots smooth and then glue on a vinyl product that is very close to what the existing grain was. We will see how this turns out. Worst case, it looks like crap, and I have to buy a new headliner. Ahhh, I don't so! Will post how it turns out either way.
Throttle bracket for the A body 4 bbl just came. It fits just like it should, and I can use the original throttle cable, but as DionR said, the kickdown rod is too short for this setup. I need the longer, adjustable rod/link with the small kickout. The hunt continues, but at least we have tracks to follow.
The throttle attachment point is much further forward and in the vertical plane instead of horizontal. This effectively moves the cable to the left to better line up with the 4 bbl carb.
Set up that functioned fine, but would probably hit the firewall on an A body application
New set up, with the 4 bbl bracket. Throttle cable lines up great, but the kickdown is now too short. I will have to find the longer rod and link setup that also has a little kink to the right.
I know, I know, the dark argent center caps were this style
and showed up in 1970 and 71! But, I like the contrast even on the 1972, 73, and 74 center caps. So I painted them up and this is the result.
I think they look kewl.
