1974 Slant 6 Adjustable rockers?

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johnparts

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hey guys are the 74's solid or hyd lifter motors? I'm getting passed by landscaping trucks with 40' trailers and I'm wondering if my car has some more in it then it does now. I just tuned it up and cleaned the carb I'm set at 12 degree's initial timing and 33 degree's total advance but she pops at idle and the thing is a total turd off the line. It is a 1 barrel so in know it's gonna be slow but I have to bury the throttle to get moving at all.
 
1974 slant six engines, have solid lifters, and adj rockers. If you have not done so, I would adjust them. Stock cam is .010 on the intake, and .020 exhaust.
 
Thanks I figured they needed it. But she is quite too so I'm a bit skeptical that that will fix it.
 
Thanks I figured they needed it. But she is quite too so I'm a bit skeptical that that will fix it.
If it is quite you may have a couple over tightened and the valve is not shutting the door on your valve seal.:read2:
 
The 74s are post fuel-crisis cars. The rear gear ratios that let the 225 loaf at freeway speeds kill it off the line. I improved the acceleration of my 73 /6 by emptying out the trunk. LOL.

On a more serious note, make sure the vacuum hoses are intact and that the emission control and exhaust heater flap are working correctly. I'm not a fan of EGR of this era, so I would give it major attention.

Your remark about a bad idle suggest a check of correct choke function may be in order. You should definitely get a good idle when the engine is up to operating temperature.
 
72 Demon, I never could get the egr to work on my 73 ( caused nasty idle problems ), so it ended up getting blocked off.

John, If it tells you anything, my 73 would boil rear tire OFF ( power braking ) with only the 1bbl carb.
Alternately I had a 75 that was 0 to 60 in 20 miles....had sat so long the flapper was stuck shut..can you say exhaust restriction?? that one fixed itself while I was working on it trying to figure out what was wrong, one final fan of the throttle and CLANG the thing flipped open, rpms shot right up.

Anyway, 72 Demon and Memike put you on the right track. The too tight lifters will cause a popping at idle. Vacuum leaks can kill idle quality as well
 
we have a 74 duster, i have to say it wasnt too bad for power. well except for mhen you stepped on it, it would downshift and ping pretty good with no acceleration but the timing was not too far. i think it was 5*. i picked up a superisx setup imediatly after purchase of the car so i didnt really do too much investigating. when i pulled the manifold off to do the swap, the heat flap was frozen directing the exhaust to heat the intake all the time. the super six didnt make a great improvement over stock until i put the full 2.5" exhaust on. still no rocket but its got plety of power to go anywhere. oh i did gasket match the exhaust manifold and open up the outlet. my 69 you could power brake it and get the tire going pretty good when it was still a 225.
 
Well I found the simple solution I didn't want to do just yet but it came up adn I jumped on it. I just bought a 400 CI big block and I will take care of any acceleration issues I have with that. Thanks for the advise guys I will mess with it before I drop the new heart in.
 
5° initial with the stock dizzy curve is too far advanced on a stock '74.

The setting should have been 0°, TDC.

These come with rather extensive advance to get the economy up there. The governor is likely a 15r. That gives 30° of mechanical. Coupled with the stock Vacuum advance your going to have way to much advance to run without EGR.
A 9R governor, coupled with replacing the light spring with a much lighter one will hop the advance in quicker. I have a light spring from an 80's ford 302 in my old distributor. That helps quite a bit with acceleration. If your vacuum amplifier is shot or the thermal switch and vacuum routing is messed up the EGR isn't going to work right.

I'm running a Mallory Unilite with 20° of initial and 8° of mechanical all in by 2400 rpm. (No Vacuum advance.)

If your going to stuff a big motor in, then you don't need to worry about this stuff.
It can be fun to play with the slant to see what you can get out of it, but it's not for everybody. :-D

When you throw the parts away, throw them to one of us nut-cases that like to play with them. A '74 may have the BH block, which is the more desireable choice for building power.
If it's a 198, it has a set of rods in there that are much sought after. (Though not necessarily to put back into a 198!)
The 198 and 225 blocks are identical, the only difference is the rod length and stroke. ID the engine on the pad on the block deck beneath plug #1.
999 times out of 1000 it will be a 225.

CJ
 
hmmm i never would have thought an extra 5* would be too much, it was et at that when i got the car. i do know my issue was the heat flap. after swapping to the super six i didnt touch the distributor and you could hear no more ping. quit with the light and play with it by ear anyway. i bought this duster with what i was told, a blown motor. i have everything except a driveshaft and radiator to do a 400 727 and 8 3/4, that was why i wanted the car. im not really into the slant stuff but i got it running pretty decent so it will stay in for a little while till i want more power.
 
definately check the valve adjustment,or put in the big block,one of those two should fix it =)
 
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