1st Gen Crew Cab Engine

Which engine choice would you go with?

  • 1st Gen Cummins

    Votes: 52 36.9%

  • 383

    Votes: 8 5.7%

  • 440

    Votes: 41 29.1%

  • Era correct 360

    Votes: 12 8.5%

  • Newer 360

    Votes: 9 6.4%

  • 5.7 Hemi

    Votes: 20 14.2%
  • Total voters
    141
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Wildcat,

You said that a diesel would be better for mileage but a big block for power. I'm assuming a diesel would be better for towing, correct? (more torque to get going?).

Thanks!
 
I've towed with a 1992 2wd Cummins ext. cab 1 ton, at the time I had owned a 1997 1500 4wd 360 EXT. CAB SLT. Both had the factory tow pack. My buddy let me use his 92 because my 1500 had just turned 158,000 and I was towing 1000 miles round trip like I did atleast once a year and the 360 was useing major oil. I was on the road less than 2 hours and man did I miss my gas engine!!!!!!!! Lets just say that was the last time I used the 92. It was a very clean low mile truck at the time also, I was very dissapointed in that truck.
 
Put this on a gas truck with two machines a cat skid loader and excavator. See how far you get in the Pa. hills. r
bsad67 said:
I've towed with a 1992 2wd Cummins ext. cab 1 ton, at the time I had owned a 1997 1500 4wd 360 EXT. CAB SLT. Both had the factory tow pack. My buddy let me use his 92 because my 1500 had just turned 158,000 and I was towing 1000 miles round trip like I did atleast once a year and the 360 was useing major oil. I was on the road less than 2 hours and man did I miss my gas engine!!!!!!!! Lets just say that was the last time I used the 92. It was a very clean low mile truck at the time also, I was very dissapointed in that truck.
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My 1st gen is a torque monster

my second gen weighs 9000 empty without the plow and I already seen 4 1/2 tons of material on the scales

The dually is only used to pull the big trailer

And last my little guy with the cap been in almost every state, It will stay right along side of any stock old school muscle car. Pulling a trailer!



I buy a lot of trucks. They use to be all gas until I bought my first Diesel and turned it up. When you buy a Diesel you don't look at milage. you look for rust and frame damage. Go to a truck pull.
 

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RTom said:
Wildcat,

You said that a diesel would be better for mileage but a big block for power. I'm assuming a diesel would be better for towing, correct? (more torque to get going?).

Thanks!
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What he said was for power without the changeover troubles go with a big block. He is still advocating that the diesel is the best way to go for mileage and power, but it's going to require a lot more work and money to do than a big block would.

One big question I have is what's your budget on this project? You mention not having a lot of money to do this. In my opinion both routes suggested (big block or diesel) are going to cost quite a bit of money to build a dependable rig. What other parts do you need for the truck? Is it complete minus a drivetrain or is it a shell you're piecing together? Just trying to get an idea of what you're working with.
 
The only problem I see with a big block is the on going poor fuel economy. Let's face it, gas prices are only going to get worse. There is also the longevity thing, and as a rule, a gas engine isn't going to do the work of a diesel, last as long as a diesel, nor put out the power (torque) of a diesel, and continue doing so for a long time.

The change from gas to diesel is a one time expense, and the Cummins will simply out pull, out last, and and big block gas engine, and will give you better fuel economy while doing that.

I have 2 Cummins pickups, and have had a number of big block pick ups. When I changed for gas power to diesel power, I realized that I'd been doing it wrong all those years.

I just sold off a 2500 Cummins with 471,000 miles on it, and besides normal maintenance, the only repair that I had to do to the engine was 2 water pumps, and an A/C compressor. That's nearly a half million miles.

While we've all heard about someone who got big mileage out of a gas engine, the fact of the matter is the vast majority of gas engines are not going to give you that kind of service with out a rebuild, or two. But, a half million miles on a hard working diesel is not uncommon.

on a side note: My son's 92 Cummins (I bought it new, gave it to him back in 2003) was rebuilt at 620,000 miles and during the rebuilt he added larger turbos and some other stuff, and right now it's about 450 HP, but 935 Ft/Lbs of torque!
 
Thanks for all of your in put guys, I greatly appreciate it!

It seems like my best option would be to keep saving up money and look for a good Cummins donor rig. I know it will push the project off further while I save up the money, I really want this build to be done right so I can keep it as my 'forever truck'.

The biggest thing I don't like about the 1st gen Cummins rigs is that they seem so loud. I know so of that has to do with the exhaust, but I think a lot of it is noise inherent to the engine itself. I've thought about adding sound deadener to the inside of the cab and engine compartment to help reduce the noise in the cab while its running. Any other ideas?
 
I would go with either the 440 or 360 with an a833 4 speed and some 3.73 gears so you can pull a freight train and still get decent mpg with lower maint cost. I have a 90 d250 with a z code 360 np435 4 speed and 4.10 gears. While I can tow a brick factory with it, I have no top end per say. If I had the money, I would have said setup listed at the top of my post
 
RTom said:
Wildcat,

You said that a diesel would be better for mileage but a big block for power. I'm assuming a diesel would be better for towing, correct? (more torque to get going?).

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I went back. And reread what I wrote.

The cummins by FAR will give the best towing power you could ever want, BUT AT WHAT COST?

And that being what will it cost you to convert a gas truck frame to a diesel powered vehicle?

You would be best to find a salvage diesel truck forthechangeove so you have ALL THE PARTS you will need

A big block gas will give you good towing power lot less cost to build and when time to sell probably about the same resale as the diesel converted

I have had my cummins for 11 years but driven it since it was new. It is an absolute towing machine since I had the pump tweeked, billet converter disturbution hitch, love the towing abilities, BUT, if you really don't plan on LOTS OF OVER ROAD MILES or FREQUENT TOWING HEAVY LOADS, just do not see the need for a diesel for most people.

MY 2 CENTS
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Put this on a gas truck with two machines a cat skid loader and excavator. See how far you get in the Pa. hills. r
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Funny thing is, I was going through east P.A. Hills. loaded truck with 22 ft open car trailer. When I say loaded I mean loaded welder, generator and all. Just to go Drag racing. However what I didn't compare it to was the 2007 and that smoked both of them in torque and hp. Over all pulling power and controll was the best by the 07 dodge. My buddys Chebby with the Allison was best hands down(LOADED ENCLOSED 48FT. W/LIVING QUAT). The Ford has nothing.........Lets compare apples to apples.....
 
In 92 I put an 89 Cummins engine with an automatic overdrive trans into my 75 Dodge B300 van, replacing the 360 it had. I also swapped the 4:10 gears out for a 3:54 set.

It was a lot of work and not cheap but the day we crossed the Rocky Mt. towing a car headed west toward Bonneville without having to shift out of overdrive made the 6 months of work worthwhile. I had made the same trip with the 360 and it worked a lot harder, especially because of gaining altitude which didn't faze the diesel.

With the 360, the van always got 9-11 mpg no matter what you were doing with it. With the diesel it always got at least 15 even driving aggressively. On the road at 70 mph it would do 22-23 empty, 17-19 towing.

Yes, it is noisy. One of the big sources of noise on the early engines is the mechanical injector pump. Keeping the lifters properly adjusted helps too.

If you do this you need to get the entire underhood wiring harness, along with the radiator and trans cooler. Also the driveshaft, which has really big U-joints.

If you want to keep this truck for a long time like you say, save up your money and do this, you won't regret it. The improved performance and mileage over a gas engine is incredible.

Gary
 
Guys,

I really appreciate all of your input.

I think I've decided to save up my money and do it the right way, do a full on Cummins Swap. Since I plan on keeping the truck forever, I want it to be able to handle anything I may need it to, from being a DD to hauling camper/boat/cars/toys/etc.

Once I graduate and have time/money, I'll be in the market for another 67-69 Dart Convertible and at that point will explore the gasser arena.

Thanks for all the advice guys! FABO really rocks!!! :supz:
 
I still say 440. You can find and buy a whole motor home for less than $1500. Everything you need is right there- battery, alternator, pulleys and brackets, carb and linkage's, even the 727, usually with a drum style e-brake hanging off the back.. Power steering lines, motor mounts, and radiator may or may not fit, but are easy to fix, drive shaft can be modified easy enough. Exhaust down pipes and manifolds should work. You cant beat buying a motor home for a donor vehicle. They are designed as low compression torque monsters=Cheaper Gas. After all that the motor home will scale out for 4 or 5 Hundred Bucks
 
I did a Cummins transplant into a '75 crewcab a few years back. It isn't cheap to do it right, but the results were above my expectations.

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bsad67 said:
I've towed with a 1992 2wd Cummins ext. cab 1 ton, at the time I had owned a 1997 1500 4wd 360 EXT. CAB SLT. Both had the factory tow pack. My buddy let me use his 92 because my 1500 had just turned 158,000 and I was towing 1000 miles round trip like I did atleast once a year and the 360 was useing major oil. I was on the road less than 2 hours and man did I miss my gas engine!!!!!!!! Lets just say that was the last time I used the 92. It was a very clean low mile truck at the time also, I was very dissapointed in that truck.
Click to expand...

Ahh the 92 cummins(23 + mpg) is a MONSTER. hook it to anything and it'll tow it and get decent fuel mileage. unfortunately it's also SLOW accelerating as heck in stock form.

With a little bit of playing(not by adding power boosters, just adjusting what ya got) you can keep you mileage,torque and bump up the performance to rival any 360 (18mpg tops) stock gas powered truck and some 383's too. Do a bit more like a fuel pin or injectors and and it's even faster. Once you stick some weight on a gas rig the mileage goes to he$$ in a hurry, not so much on a diesel. maintenance consists of adding a bit of lube every tank for the low sulfur in the fuel nowadays to save the pump, changing the oil every 5k or so depending on use,water filter and air filter about every 15-20k or so. then doing the top end adjustment every 125k. doesn't sound too bad to me.
but it doesn't sound like you have a diesel truck to rob the needed parts from. so it might be best to go gas and live with the crappy mileage and lower towing capacity.
 
Not to be a downer, but if your serious about wanting a cummins, just buy a used one. If you are set on using that body and frame thats cool too go for it. If your asking about cost then the cost of a donor truck will be a few thousand then a few thousand for the conversion, odds and ends, custom fab etc. It probably will be around 10gs if you plan on having it done professionally. You could get a nice southern rig from the new body styles maybe even up to an 06 if you don't mind 200, thousands miles. I like the old trucks but man the newer ones are so much better in both creature comfort, and all around easier to maintain than a hybrid.
 
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