273 rocker help

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DusterBoy15

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ok sicne i was told many times not to get cheap rockers and i saw that many use the 273 rockers.

are there things i should do to the 273 rockers to up grade them or can i run them as is?
 
I'd use 273 rockers if I was running a solid cam, otherwise I'd just stick with the stock ones, which will work fine and save you a little cash.
If you do use the 273 rockers, replace the stock adjusting screws with ones with jam nuts, I think I got mine from Crane cams, but that was 25 years ago, so I may be wrong LOL
 
xe274 hydral flat tappet i believe but people say its better then going with cheap roller rockers and the stock rockers i have i dont know what kind of condition they are in and im getting the 273s for a good price
 
so i should trust the stock rockers that were on the motor when i got it? if so i will do that im jsut clairifying becasue i do have a change to get a really good deal on the 273 rockers
 
:salut:Dusterboy, I had a decent .510 solid cam out of a race 340 and I went over to my local junkyard and pulled the rockers of a 273 for 30.00. I advise you to buy them even if you don't need them and you can use them in a low budget build someday. I picked up a 360 fresh bore .030 over since then and now need some used flat tops for an extra engine. If you have the money and get a good deal on things you like, you will always get your money back.How much are the rockers? Walt
 
I agree with Walt; if they're cheap - then buy them. Just put them on the shelf for now if you choose not to use them. Some project will come up some day that you'll want them for...

I ran 273 rockers on a 340 with the old .572/296 Solid Purple Shaft back in the eighties. Never had a problem with them and I used to spin the piss out of that engine. Still have that exact set of rockers on the shelf today in fact...
 
You will need the Crane pushrods if you are running a hydraulic cam only. As well I reccomend getting a adjustable bolt and nut set for the pushrod. Other good ideas are shims around the shafts to fill in gaps and to better center the rocker on top of the valve center. I've also read where you can plug weld the oiling hole on the top of the rocker and drill a hole approx 100 thou. on the underside of the rocker arm pointing to the valve stem top where the rocker makes contact with the valve. The good thing about adjustable rockers is the fact that you can vary the lifter pre- load. I preload my rockers at 3/4 of turn in from zero lash. I've been runing this set up for years with great results.
 
Besides changing over to the lock nut style adjusters, the valve stem/tip oiling hole should be relocated. The old mopar perf books show a way of doing this.

Maybe its over kill - but what I did was buy 16 small allen head set screws and tapped the top oiling hole - later plugged them with the set screws and some red loctite. Next drill an 1/8" hole thru the body of the rocker arm, just under the arm of the rocker pointing towards the valve stem. Run a brake hone thru the center to clean any burrs and a quick file across the outside of the hole and you are done, clean and use them.

Get the Banana groove rocker shafts for improved oiling etc. You might also find the lock nuts may not sit flat on the rocker arm - you may need to dress this area flat with a sharp file. One other item, do not torque the lock nuts more than 25 ft-lbs, they will snap if you torque them too much - ask me how I know.
 
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