3.55 sure grip

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Prices vary quite a bit but I'd guess anywhere from $350-$550. What case casting and what type sure grip is it? How many miles on it?
 
kahuna1949 said:
Change that to 3.23 489 case sure grip. Will I need to change anything like the drive shaft?
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3.23's don't bring quite as much money as 3.55's do but since it's the 489 case that helps some. Type of sure-grip will determine the final price. As long as you have a 8-3/4 in the car now the driveshaft length will be the same but there are a few different yokes used. The large majority of A-body cars use the small 7260 U-joint. Make sure and ask what yoke it has and if he's not sure measure yours and have him measure his and compare. Even if your car has a small U-joint and his has the large u-joint you can use it by changing your rear u-joint to the 7260 to 7290 conversion u-joint, but that's added extra cost and labor so keep that in mind.

kahuna1949 said:
Center section. And you gave me a couple of questions to ask, mileage and kind of sure grip. Thank you.
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Glad to help
 
I do have 8 3/4 . I was exchanging emails, thought it was a pull part (well kind of was). Thought he had a 3.55 and comes back with.

489 case with sure grip 323 ratio. $450.00 (2 to choose from)
489 case with 276 non sure-grip. $100.00


70 dodge charger in my back yard with unknown 3rd member 250.00 if you pull it
70 Plymouth satellite in my back yard with unknown 3rd member, $150 if you pull it


Release of liability required in advance if you pull any parts.
 
The Charger and Satellites may have the larger U-joint and in 70 will most undoubtedly have the weaker cone type sure grip that may be pretty well worn out. Or they may not even have a sure grip at all but it's not hard to tell if you jack them up. The 489 case 2.76 open diff isn't real desirable to most people so the $100 is a little pricey, at least in my opinion. I can usually pick them up for $50-75. Last month a guy gave me one for free. The 3.23 sure grips better have the clutch type sure grip for $450. If they don't I wouldn't pay near that much. No more than $350
 
If I have a center section already, I could buy a Mopar 8.75, 8 3/4, clutch type sure-grip, power-lock, posi from lets say Dr Diff. and between the two have a complete suregrip center section ,ready to go after assembly. I am not sure it might have been fishy68 that linked over to part number that would allow me to use a 7290 yoke when the old one was a 7260 a TRW 20226 is that a fit?
 
kahuna1949 said:
If I have a center section already, I could buy a Mopar 8.75, 8 3/4, clutch type sure-grip, power-lock, posi from lets say Dr Diff. and between the two have a complete suregrip center section ,ready to go after assembly. I am not sure it might have been fishy68 that linked over to part number that would allow me to use a 7290 yoke when the old one was a 7260 a TRW 20226 is that a fit?
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Yep. A lot of guys do it that way. I have in the past also. I mentioned a conversion U-joint being available but I don't think I provided a link. Not sure on the TRW #. I'm pretty sure Dr. Diff sells the conversion joint
 

i know everyone has a opinion but my 2 cent is if u do any interstate driving n want to run say 70 to 75 for any length a time u will want the 3.23s anyway i just swapped a 8.8 explorer disk brake rear in my dart i started with the 3.73s it came with n with a 26 inch tire freeway driving was out too much gear i then went wuth 3.55s it helped some but nothing substantial so i now am running 3.30s very happy now
 
Tracy is right on the money as usual. I got a 4.56 sure grip off Ebay last year. It was advertised as a clutch type. Price was 450 shipped, so I snagged it. Pics weren't that great.....and I shouldda asked questions, but there was the gear I need and in a sure grip. I got it and it was a cone type. I sent the seller a messege letting him know and he almost immediately refunded 100 bucks. I got double lucky because upon teardown the unit looks new. Literally zero wear like the cones have never slipped at all. I'm gonna run hell outta it.
 
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