318 block/340 heads?

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Backwood

Backwood

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Just purchased on sat. I confirmed 318 block. How and what to check the Head ID? Has a heavy cam not sure what? Its out of tune. Looks to have the orange box Ingition. Timing Base is at 10.5 BTC. This is my first Mopar! Would love to have some help on tuning it. The carb is Eldbrk 1405. I live in Pen Argyl, PA I would love some hands on help.
 

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Some 318 heads have an X on them, so the X alone won't be the final say, pull the cover and look for a last 3 digits of 894/915

There are also some casting lines that are diff between 318/340/360 on the ends of the heads.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Some 318 heads have an X on them, so the X alone won't be the final say, pull the cover and look for a last 3 digits of 894/915

There are also some casting lines that are diff between 318/340/360 on the ends of the heads.
Click to expand...

Thanks will check after work. I have another question in the attached pic there is a arrow pointing to a pluged vac port it had a short piece of vac hose that went no where. I plugged it. what the point of open vac hose Carb air fuel mix. Just wanting some input before I get home. What i plan to do is vac gauge the intake and adjust mix. and attempt setting timing,
 

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That would have been used if you needed vacuum to run to your int and operate your heater and defrost selection in newer mopar cars if needed.
Pull the vacuum advance hose and plug it off, I would check the base plate and gasket under the carb for vacuum leaks , spray W-D40 around it while it is running and see if the engine revs up and smooths out some, It could be just a gasket leak there.
I don't see a thick gasket under your carb, A good way to keep the gas cool.
 
Is this an auto trans car? If so I don't see a throttle pressure linkage on there. Very important piece, unless the trans has a manual valve body.

Pull a valve cover and look for a series of numbers on the runner. Here is a link with some info.

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=68

By the way, welcome to the forum.
 
that port in the manifold is also use for power assist brake booster if you have one
 
badsport said:
Is this an auto trans car? If so I don't see a throttle pressure linkage on there. Very important piece, unless the trans has a manual valve body.

Pull a valve cover and look for a series of numbers on the runner. Here is a link with some info.

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=68

By the way, welcome to the forum.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! BTW yes its manual valve body 727 not sure of trans 727? My question is why did previous owner leave vac line open.
 
memike said:
That would have been used if you needed vacuum to run to your int and operate your heater and defrost selection in newer mopar cars if needed.
Pull the vacuum advance hose and plug it off, I would check the base plate and gasket under the carb for vacuum leaks , spray W-D40 around it while it is running and see if the engine revs up and smooths out some, It could be just a gasket leak there.
I don't see a thick gasket under your carb, A good way to keep the gas cool.
Click to expand...

Will do. Not sure about spacer gasket i noticed it has a low profile air filter. Not sure of hood clearance? Thanks
 
badsport said:
Is this an auto trans car? If so I don't see a throttle pressure linkage on there. Very important piece, unless the trans has a manual valve body.

Pull a valve cover and look for a series of numbers on the runner. Here is a link with some info.

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=68

By the way, welcome to the forum.
Click to expand...

Yes it has a manual valve body. BTW i have no idea of what type of trans is in it or the rear. Sorry guys I spent the last 18 yrs with ford on the brain. Now im tring to download Mopar to the brain](*,) Should have listened to my father!
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Some 318 heads have an X on them, so the X alone won't be the final say, pull the cover and look for a last 3 digits of 894/915

There are also some casting lines that are diff between 318/340/360 on the ends of the heads.
Click to expand...

The Heads are 894. The good ones? 2.02/1.60!
 
I'm about 40 minutes from you in jersey. If you get stuck PM me and I'll try to help. It's a nice ride up there, my Mom lives in upper Mt Bethel. Looks like you have a project!! LOL I have a 67 convertible and lots of stuff for them.
 
I have a 68 barracuda 318 auto, that port goes to the Performance Meter ( MAP gauge) if you have that gauge( ralley style for automatics) it tells how much vacuum the intake is pulling.
 
Ok this is what I found out so far. Vac leak carb! Cyl 4 intake lifter bad (floats off idle). I ordered all new lifters, and plate gaskets. :violent1::violent1::violent1:
 
not sure what you mean by floats off idle im going to assume you mean the valve from lifter pump if this is the case check the valve spring make sure its ok if there weak you will get the same thing
 
He looked at the lifter and said it was cupped,dished, bad and that the cam lobe is probably bad. He suggests pulling cam. Either way I don't like not knowing what cam is in it. any thoughts. should I pull heads while im there and have them checked, decked?
I feel slightly violated.:axe: Just got a text from previous owner he changed the lifter's out about 3 months ago!
 
it happens to them. lifters are touchy when you change them on a cam that is already broke in. most of the time no problem but it does happen. for sure if the lifter is cupped then the cam is bad and needs to be replaced. if you just want to get into it ya take the heads off but if you just want to look at them maybe do a compression test to get a mechanical idea of the condition. surfacing is a good idea for bringing up the compression and help the power and mileage but the gains aren't huge unless the compression is horrible (low). you need to have the cam that your going to run in the engine to really get a good idea cause that will also effect the pressure. taking the heads off isn't hard to do if your like me and like to tinker. so if that's the case go for it.the good and bad is you might find something you do want to see but on the other hand it might save you a tow bill.
 
Backwood said:
Thanks will check after work. I have another question in the attached pic there is a arrow pointing to a pluged vac port it had a short piece of vac hose that went no where. I plugged it. what the point of open vac hose Carb air fuel mix. Just wanting some input before I get home. What i plan to do is vac gauge the intake and adjust mix. and attempt setting timing,
Click to expand...

I noticed you need a couple of parts . 4 bbl throttle bracket, Heater hose support, The vacuum port you mentioned was probably for a factory in dash performance guage that was taken out of the car to sell separately, or from an A/C car with manual brakes. Maybe it was all they had to plug the hole. When you come over for the 340 block Crank and rods today. I will give you the bracket , support and the correct plug. remind me when you get here, Steve
 
Welcome aboard from another fish owner! Nice looking project. You have got lots of advice already, lotsa good people here. By the way those valve covers are desirable/wanted by some people.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I noticed you need a couple of parts . 4 bbl throttle bracket, Heater hose support, The vacuum port you mentioned was probably for a factory in dash performance guage that was taken out of the car to sell separately, or from an A/C car with manual brakes. Maybe it was all they had to plug the hole. When you come over for the 340 block Crank and rods today. I will give you the bracket , support and the correct plug. remind me when you get here, Steve
Click to expand...

Steve, would just like to say thanks. You my friend are Awesome! :notworth:
 
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