318 Carbs?

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lewisstrong

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My carb on a '65 Fury wagon 318, AT, won't idle and the accel pump stopped working smoothly just before it stopped idling. That was a year ago, car parked since then. I have another carb that was on the car until it started acting up several years ago, similar problem as best I recall. One is the original factory unit, the other is same model, rebuilt, from local parts house. Not sure which is which now. I suspect gumming from gasohol. Can I clean out the passages in these by soaking or vatting them? I want to try cleaning them out internally first, before having to take them apart. The older unit had a kit installed years ago. Neither has enough mileage or wear to need a kit, or replacing. Gas tank was cleaned out good, patched with copper & solder, and red coated inside 20 years ago. I've tried fuel tank additives on these and other old cars in the past, without decent results. I still have the shop manual from when the car was new. Thanks for your help. LS
 
Carter or Stromberg? I would run the idle screws in all the way (gently) and count the turns then back them out all the way. Use a good spray carb cleaner and squirt it into the screw holes a few times at intervals long enough to let the chemical do its thing on varnish etc. If you have compressed air blast it through the idle screw holes too before reassembling to original turns off bottom. Fill the carb bowl with the same spray through the bowl vent while you are letting the idle circuit soak. When you start the car again rev it up and force the choke closed at the same time which can remove some deposits or debris in air bleeds etc. If this doesn't get it done it is time to at least take the top off the carb and see what deposits are in the bowl and pump well. It is a better thing to just go ahead and remove the carb since many people have dropped screws into their intake fixing carbs while on the engine.
 
I had problems like this not due to ethanol, but due to the fact that they removed all the stuff in gas to keep it from evaporating. FI cars have a sealed system so they stopped putting it in, old style carbs are vented and all the gas evaporates leaving deposits that corode the carb. I started using Carb Defender (purchased from Jegs) in the tank and the carb seems toi run better than in years. I used the recommended amount and do so again if the car is going to sit, but use less of it if I;m on a trip or driving regularly. I heard about this stuff in a seminar with Herb McCandless (old famous Mopar racer and builder) at Carlisle
 
I believe they are Strombergs, forget which model, haven't looked at them in a year. What you say makes sense to me, so that's what I'll do for a start. I may be back for more. Many thanks. LS
 
Sounds good, I will do something like you suggest if when I get it going again. I'm only guessing about the alcohol being a problem, this thing has run well most of its 50 years. Alcohol was in use before the problem appeared, but I was driving it pretty regularly most of the time.

Thanks for the tips. LS
 
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