318 Exhaust valve differences

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prorac1

prorac1

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i have a couple other threads going leading up to this.

Here's the quick and dirty.

We're "cleaning up" a dirty old abused 1983 318 out of a ram charger.

Were installing:
Main bearings
Rod bearings
Oil pump and pickup
Timing chain
214/224, .444/.466 112 LSA cam
Lifters
And valve springs.

The last edition is what's causing us issues. Valve springs.

Being a 1983 318, it had rotator style exhaust retainers. That part has already been tackled, and we got some used intake retainers to replace the rotators with.

Problem is, the 2 groove rotator exhaust valves have the lock grooves further down on the stem than the 4 groove non rotator older style.

This causes the spring height to be lower than optimal. It also causes us to run into coil bind, or close to it.

So we need to buy new exhaust valves for use without rotators and the lock grooves higher up.

Here's the new issue.

The valve I currently have is listed as a 45 degree seat on rock auto.

The valve I need is listed as a 43 degree seat.

2 degrees could cause an issue.

Our plan was to buy new springs and hand lap them in. Now I'm not sure that's a possibility. A valve job is out for now as the budget is tight.

Thoughts.
 
Here's the two valves in question.



IMG_3554.PNG
 
yellow rose said:
Not an issue.

I cut all my 45* stuff at 44*.
50* seats get 50.5-51 on the valve.
55* seats get 56.5-57 on the valve.
Click to expand...

Ok. Cool. I'm planing on ordering the valves and keepers tonight.

Any tips on lapping the new valves into the old seats?

This project is making me feel like such a dirty hack. Lol

But in a fun scientific sort of way. Lol.

Thanks again. Eric
 
prorac1 said:
Ok. Cool. I'm planing on ordering the valves and keepers tonight.

Any tips on lapping the new valves into the old seats?

This project is making me feel like such a dirty hack. Lol

But in a fun scientific sort of way. Lol.

Thanks again. Eric
Click to expand...


Bluing on the seat and valve. Use enough fine lapping compound to lightly cover the valve and lap by hand until you have a seat all the way around the valve and seat.

I've seen guys lap valves so long it wore a groove in the face of the valve.
 
yellow rose said:
Bluing on the seat and valve. Use enough fine lapping compound to lightly cover the valve and lap by hand until you have a seat all the way around the valve and seat.

I've seen guys lap valves so long it wore a groove in the face of the valve.
Click to expand...

What kind of pattern am I looking for?

A sharp line?

Or a thick line?

Thanks. Eric
 
prorac1 said:
What kind of pattern am I looking for?

A sharp line?

Or a thick line?

Thanks. Eric
Click to expand...


It depends on how wide the seat is. Most of my stuff was .040 on the intake and exhaust. The 50 degree stuff was .060 so anything under .080 on the intake and .100 on the exhaust will run fine. Might not make the best power but they will seal.
 
On an engine like yours, all I care about is that the valve lap marks are nice and solid. I don't really care how wide or narrow they are, unless they are overly narrow. Now on race stuff, or hot street stuff where a lot of coin is dropped, that's another story.
 
Awsome. Thank you guys. It's greatly appreciated.

Valves and locks are ordered and on their way!
 
RustyRatRod said:
On an engine like yours, all I care about is that the valve lap marks are nice and solid. I don't really care how wide or narrow they are, unless they are overly narrow. Now on race stuff, or hot street stuff where a lot of coin is dropped, that's another story.
Click to expand...


That's what I was trying to say. RRR just said it better.
 
yellow rose said:
It depends on how wide the seat is. Most of my stuff was .040 on the intake and exhaust. The 50 degree stuff was .060 so anything under .080 on the intake and .100 on the exhaust will run fine. Might not make the best power but they will seal.
Click to expand...

I have fine and coarse compound.

Just use the fine?

I use to have blueing dye. I'll have to look around for it or buy some more.

Thanks again for all the help guys.

It takes a message board to build an engine. Lol
 
TrailBeast said:
I say things twice quite a bit.
Once the way I would normally say it, and once more the way the person understands it.:D
Click to expand...

It's ok. Lol.

My OCD likes numbers and things to measure. Lol.

Dumbing it down works also. Lol.

I'll take it either way. Lol
 
prorac1 said:
It's ok. Lol.

My OCD likes numbers and things to measure. Lol.

Dumbing it down works also. Lol.

I'll take it either way. Lol
Click to expand...

Yes, but in my case I think it's me that has the problem and not the listener.:D
That's what the Wife says anyway.
Funny, I don't have that problem with others.:rolleyes:
 
TrailBeast said:
Yes, but in my case I think it's me that has the problem and not the listener.:D
That's what the Wife says anyway.
Funny, I don't have that problem with others.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Oh. Trust me. It's not you……it's me. Lol. Totally me. Lol

Tell me something 3 times, 3 different ways and I might trap it the second or third time around. Lol.
 
prorac1 said:
Oh. Trust me. It's not you……it's me. Lol. Totally me. Lol

Tell me something 3 times, 3 different ways and I might trap it the second or third time around. Lol.
Click to expand...

I don't know, I think that is fairly normal for most people.
 
prorac1 said:
I have fine and coarse compound.

Just use the fine?

I use to have blueing dye. I'll have to look around for it or buy some more.

Thanks again for all the help guys.

It takes a message board to build an engine. Lol
Click to expand...


I'd start with the fine and if they don't clean up you can use the coarse. I'd finish with the fine if you have to use the coarse.
 
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