318 Oil pan gasket fitment issue / MAHLE OS30520YTC Cork with Metal Carrier

[Mopar King]

so i was looking online in how to properly install a oil pan gasket on my 318. I notice there are two styles : one with multiple holes and one without the holes on the bottom of the oil pan. I got the one without the holding holes. I think its also a mildon performance pan forgot part number

I seen some people
-cut the cork gasket so it doesn't interfere with the rubber wing
-some cut the wind off and add alot of RTV
-some people slid the cork gasket under the rubber wing
-others lay the gasket on top of the rubber wing

I dont see any other way other than cutting the metal cork gasket a bit so i can have it seated flat onto the pan because i cant slide it under the wing as seen in pictures cause the gasket is long and pushes the rubber wing out

I was thinking as well to try to lay it on top of the rubber gasket and pressurized it close with the oil pan bolts - which i dont like that idea as seen in pictures of me holding gasket down with my thumb - you can see a gap in between which is guarantee to leak . what would you guys suggest - I just want to install it right once and not worry about leaks

 

[Sterling]

Is the engine in the vehicle or out ? I think that factory design was to have the engine upside down, and tack the cork pan rail gaskets to the block. Then set the pan on, with the rubber end seals attached to the pan. I usually try to install like that, and usually install some sealer on the pan before installing the rubber end seals. If I install sealer, I will set the pan on the engine, get all the bolts started and snug the bolts. Then tighten the pan bolts the next day when the sealer is set. The gap you have now should compress when the pan is tightened.

 

[Mopar King]

Is the engine in the vehicle or out ? I think that factory design was to have the engine upside down, and tack the cork pan rail gaskets to the block. Then set the pan on, with the rubber end seals attached to the pan. I usually try to install like that, and usually install some sealer on the pan before installing the rubber end seals. If I install sealer, I will set the pan on thee engine, get all the bolts started and snug the bolts. Then tighten the pan bolts the next day when the sealer is set. The gap you have now should compress when the pan is tightened.

yeah the engine is outta the car. Your tip sounds much more better and leak proof instead of juggling the cork gasket with the rubber gasket, the rtv and setting the screws all in one go.

I guess alittle rvt on the corners is a must! I been reading that all around. the only thing im also confused is do you put rtv on the bottom / under of the rubbers? i did one but i feel like cleaning it off and just add rtv to the corners only and maybe the inner rubber lip where it meets the steel - where it seats from the inside

Alot of guys tend to not add rtv onto the gasket, what would your advice be?

I was thinking of contact glue and sticking "metal core cork" on to the engine side like you said. Not too much but just enough to give it a grab and not move.

 

[ChargedDart75]

I have added a thin layer of RTV on both sides of the gasket and to the corners of the main seals and haven't had an issue with leakage yet. Two of those engines have been together close to ten years and the other around 5.