318 rebuild Bonehead mistakes/misses and questions

[68Dart360]

Crocus cloth is an abrasive sheet similar to sand paper or emery cloth but covered with a layer of very fine loose iron oxide particles rather than with bound grains of abrasive. It is intended for final metal and gemstone finishing and is available in various grades (particle sizes).

Silicon Carbide.
The synthetic grit covering on this paper is the hardest of all. As such, its capable of sharper, smoother cutting than other papers, and woodworking purists favor it for final smoothing of furniture projects. Because of its hardness it also lasts quite a while when used to smooth plastic, fiberglass and glass. It may be used with oil or water when extra fine smoothing is desired, and it can be washed and reused. It cost approximately 25 percent more than aluminum oxide and garnet.

 

[cheech14]

OK - you guys are gonna get my two cents worth. I have been messing with this sort of stuff for close to 60 years, and what I have found that worked in the past (took a break for a few years to go play war games - so I may not be up to speed on the latest gasket materials, even tho I have put one motor together recently) what worked best and gave me the least clean up hassles when doing things like adjusting valves or checking/replacing race engine bearings (raced for about 25 years) was to glue the cork gaskets onto the valve cover or pan with K&W copper seal (I have a friend who uses contact cement!) and on the remaining mating surface putting a VERY thin coating of silicone seal (used to use Permatex 6br, dunno what it is called now) - used to tell my young guys that if you can just barley see it - that's enough. Corners - yeah they take a bit more. That darn stuff will get everywhere when ya use too much! For things like timing covers, I usually glue them to the block (coat the gasket and the block - or part you are putting on in the case of valve covers etc. - and the mating side of the gasket, let them dry for 5 min then put a very light second coat on the gasket and assemble. Make DARN certain you have the gasket lined up when you put it on, 'cause it isn't going to move much at all when it makes contact. I have found this to work exceptionally well and give a virtually leak free junction. The cool part is - when you have to take it apart it comes apart easily on the silicone side and you can reuse the gasket by just rubbing off the old silicone and recoating it during assembly.
What did I use this on - a motley collection of (in somewhat chronological order) flathead fords (pre silicone tho in the beginning) Chevrolet, Mopar(62 Fury 413) Mopar (65 Barracuda 273, then Hemi), Jaguar, Lotus, Chevrolet again (Corvette) Honda(!), Triumph 6 cyls , TR6, GT6, Mazda rotaries, Brabham, Lola (Mazda powered first, then Chevrolet). Now I am back to playing with Mopars and currently have a 65 Barracuda "white trash" hotrod w/ 318 & 4 speed - (ok, it's fun to play with - even with the Hot Wheels flames and suspension jacked to the top) and my fav project, my 65 Formula S which is in the process of getting a fresh 318+, wilwood brakes and upgraded suspension this winter. Did have it running this summer, and, by golly, Molly, the ol' girl will get around a corner pretty well! Gonna be better next summer. Put a smile on my face, it did!
Just one thing - we are all here to have a good time, right? Or am I in the wrong place??!!!
Cheech14/ "RT"