318 to 383 BB conversion for 71 dart

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Wooly266

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Sioux Falls, SD
Hello, looking for advise on what is necessary to go from 318 to 383 and have K-frame motor mounts etc. bolt up correctly. Running 727 tourqueflite, 8 3/4 489 case with 3.91 gears. All rebuilt or new. Planning on running carb. with headers only. No major mods other than that. Any drive train advise is helpful including drive shaft length etc.

Thank you for any help!
 
In my /6 - 400 '71 Duster;

I used the Shumaucker (sp!) swap mount & torque arm.
The 727 bolted right in.
Driveshaft was shortened for a few inches
8-3/4 rear with Dr.Diff high strength axles with the larger 5 on 4-1/2 bolt circle
Lokar cables & B&M shifter

Headers are from a B body, Hedman Elietes. (Sp!)
(See the tech section @ bigblockdart.com for instructions)
2-1/2 straight pipe into Mufflers ending at the axle

Running an electric choke (800) TQ on top of a Holley Street Dominator & a open element air cleaner.

When it comes to the driveshaft length, it will be measured accordingly as per the instructions of the driveshaft maker. Most take the measurement from the rear yokes flat spot where the strap bolts to up to the flat vertical surface of the Trans where the shaft comes out. This measurement I did not write down but may vary a lite for each car.

Check with a driveshaft maker for there method.

I have MoPars S/S spring installed. The rear tire is a 275/60/15. These will also slightly effect driveshaft length.
I purchased a new Summit aluminum radiator since the car came without a radiator. Also being a late year engine, the water pump is different. It shares the same locations as a small block. The radiator is thicker than a stock unit. I would have to use a thinner Hayden clutch to use the stock fan. My son in law gave me his electric fan that works well so far.
 
You should think about bigger torsion bars, too. Do a search and you'll find lots of different thoughts on what size would be best. Mounting the battery in the trunk'll help take that extra weight off the front end, so will going with an aluminum intake. Probably going to need a bigger radiator as well, check out Champion; there's a member here that sells them. I went with their 22" 3 row and it seems to cool just fine even without a shroud. It's a tight fit with a fixed fan, I'm not sure if my clutch fan will fit. Could always go with electric fans if it's an issue. Yeah, I know it's not drive train tips but you'll be surprised how many little things you didn't think about are going to pop up. DAMHIK
 
In my /6 - 400 '71 Duster;

I used the Shumaucker (sp!) swap mount & torque arm.
The 727 bolted right in.
Driveshaft was shortened for a few inches
8-3/4 rear with Dr.Diff high strength axles with the larger 5 on 4-1/2 bolt circle
Lokar cables & B&M shifter

Headers are from a B body, Hedman Elietes. (Sp!)
(See the tech section @ bigblockdart.com for instructions)
2-1/2 straight pipe into Mufflers ending at the axle

Running an electric choke (800) TQ on top of a Holley Street Dominator & a open element air cleaner.

When it comes to the driveshaft length, it will be measured accordingly as per the instructions of the driveshaft maker. Most take the measurement from the rear yokes flat spot where the strap bolts to up to the flat vertical surface of the Trans where the shaft comes out. This measurement I did not write down but may vary a lite for each car.

Check with a driveshaft maker for there method.

I have MoPars S/S spring installed. The rear tire is a 275/60/15. These will also slightly effect driveshaft length.
I purchased a new Summit aluminum radiator since the car came without a radiator. Also being a late year engine, the water pump is different. It shares the same locations as a small block. The radiator is thicker than a stock unit. I would have to use a thinner Hayden clutch to use the stock fan. My son in law gave me his electric fan that works well so far.

Thank you!
 
No problem. I'd anything else pops up, just ask. There are a lot of big block A bodies here. Most are swap projects.
 
If you are going to go with the conversion mounts get a spool type K-member. the biscuit style K after you are done hacking it leaves a lot to be desired. I've done 2 of them. I wish I would listen to my own advice!

Headers, if you are running a 383 run the tri Y headers. You can install them in about 30 minutes with the engine bolted in place.

Driveshaft length will vary. I'd recommend moving your leafs 1.5" back before doing your measurement. Your going to want the option of running a taller tire.

Torsion bars are up to you. I ran /6 bars in one and .870 bars in the 2nd.
 
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