340 block?

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RJK3

RJK3

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Got a guy selling a 67' 340 block, tanked and magnafluxed. "Bare block"
What's a reasonable price?
He's also got a steel crank and a few of rods...
Thanks for any input!
 
Have a guy selling a 67' 340 block, magged and tanked, steel crank and a set of rods...
Could anyone give me an idea as to what it's worth?
Pretty new to the small block scene.
Any help is much appreciated!
 
These guys will correct me if I am wrong. The 340 came out in 68. May be early casting. Be sure it is a 340 and not a 273.
 
Paid 500 Canadian for a standard block and crank 4 years ago. Took 3 months to finally come across a decent one.
 
Good call. The casting year could be '67, but yes, '68 was first model year. Checking the #s will confirm what it is either way.
 
Sorry, I forgot to answer the question. Prices vary all over the board, especially by location, but I'd put that at about $400-$500 for the core block, plus add $2-3 hundred for it being magged and tanked (with paperwork) with the steel crank (make sure it's a steel crank), so anywhere between $600 and $800 would be fair, maybe a little more/less, but that general range. The stock rods don't really have much value if they're just cores with no work done to them.
 
Lol, no problem! Thanks for the info, I'll go take a look and see what he's got.
Could be a smokin deal!
 
Depends on the bore, overall condition, and if its been decked, align honed etc. For the crank if it's been turned, is it true, and material and is it a 340 crank, they did make forged 318 and 273 cranks (as well as cast 340 and 318 crank) and I'm unsure if the interchange-ability (I bet they do if balanced with your rotating assembly, but I'd check).
 
I'd also consider what the bore/overbore size is. I searched for a std. bore when I got mine, before I found it there were several that were .040 or higher. I don't know how high you can go, please anyone jump in if this is a worthwhile point.
 
All good points made by dano and 71340. I was assuming only exactly what you said and nothing more at all, just a good steel crank. But how much it's been machined does affect value or desirability. At .060, I'd start to be concerned, but at .035 you're fine, assuming you can get the pistons you want in that size (I have no idea what is available).

But to dano's point, any additional machine work means they put more $ into it, and assuming it's in line with what you want to do with the engine, could be a good thing.
 
71340Duster said:
I'd also consider what the bore/overbore size is. I searched for a std. bore when I got mine, before I found it there were several that were .040 or higher. I don't know how high you can go, please anyone jump in if this is a worthwhile point.
Click to expand...

The factory service manual recommends .040" over bore Max.
 
72Dodge said:
Good call. The casting year could be '67, but yes, '68 was first model year. Checking the #s will confirm what it is either way.
Click to expand...


The 68 model year would have been launched in June '67. Blocks would need to be cast, machined, assembled into engines to meet an assembly plant launch in June. They could have been cast as early as April or May 67 to meet the launch timing if it was launched on time at the beginning of the model year.
 
Went and took a look, everything was as stated. Casting date is 6/67.
Picked up the block, pan, timing cover, dizzy and pulleys.
Thanks for the help guys!
 
Now....stroker? Or twin turbo? Lol
I really don't need either.....but hey, everyone knows how that goes.
 
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