383/727 Value

[middleagecrisis]

I bought a built 383 that I have heard/seen run. Engine had no smoke at cold startup, 80 lbs. (observed) of oil pressure and had a lot of cam lope at idle. The owner that built the engine doesn't have much documentation, but say's professionally ported HP iron heads, KB pistons (~10-1 Comp), custom ground Crane hydraulic cam. Observable things I can confirm: Edelbrock TM6 intake, Davinci 750 DP, old Mopar Electronic (MSD type) distributor and box, mini-starter, steel crank (Small balancer), adjustable factory rockers & a deep sump oil pan. Motor was built for the race car I'm selling in the classifieds. I also have a 727 Trans King (per owner) reverse manual valve body with a 9" converter (~3K stall) that I have video of going into forward and reverse gears. I bought all of this to put into my '75 Duster after looking for well over a year for an LA 360 and small block 727 trans. Of course, now after buying the 383/727, I found a builder 360/727 at give away prices. What's opinions on a realistic cost I could get for the 383 and the 727/with converter? Would it make a big enough difference in value to remove the heads and oil pan for pics and then to reassemble with new gaskets? I like the idea of idea of putting in the 383, but replacing the existing 318 with a built 360 would be much easier, and probably not a huge difference in power. Thoughts?

 

[Projectile Dart]

Not sure how much this will help you but it's tough out there right now. I've had a 440 hp core with fully forged internals for sale for a while now at what I thought was a giveaway price and I opened it up so that the whole thing could be inspected and all I have gotten is people offering scrap metal prices.
If you take it apart for pictures and then put it back together I guess it will only help your listing have a little more luck.
Not sure how much you paid for the 383/727 but maybe use that as your starting point for pricing to just break even. Maybe add $50-100 on top so that people can negotiate you down to that point. If it doesn't sell in a month or two then open it up, take the pictures, and close it back up again like you suggested here.

 

[Projectile Dart]

For what it is worth, during covid when the world was shut down, I almost went to go buy a "built" 383 (no proof or documentation but it looked freshly painted) for $600 so I assumed it would at least just be a core. It sold almost immediately and popped up a week later with someone else trying to sell it for $1,900 without doing anything to it and it's been online ever since

 

[middleagecrisis]

For what it is worth, during covid when the world was shut down, I almost went to go buy a "built" 383 (no proof or documentation but it looked freshly painted) for $600 so I assumed it would at least just be a core. It sold almost immediately and popped up a week later with someone else trying to sell it for $1,900 without doing anything to it and it's been online ever since

It appears that I couldn't build the 360 (Core) that I already have for the same cost to get it to the 383 horsepower level. Not to mention, I'd have to build a SB 727 to handle the 360. Looks like I'm going back to the 383/727 plan.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Leave it together. Serious buyers will bring a scope to look down the bores. If your building a 360 have it internally balanced . Then have the big block internals put in a small block case. And use the converter you have.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

It appears that I couldn't build the 360 (Core) that I already have for the same cost to get it to the 383 horsepower level. Not to mention, I'd have to build a SB 727 to handle the 360. Looks like I'm going back to the 383/727 plan.

I'd say the 383 plan would be worth the work and frustration, and TTI under chassis low deck headers would be worth the money for the outcome.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

I'll add that I believe that everyone wants a big block A body at one time or another. I'm all for making the best with what you have in this instance because the juice should be worth the squeeze if you're wanting a thrill ride.

 

[junkyardhero]

i'd say carry on with the chonk block. you've got the big pieces so you're most of the way there, and the bonus is that it sounds as if it's a healthy unit with some choice bits and bobs to boot.

basically you'd be looking at figuring out cooling-- which you may already have covered, but if not you'd be spending the same dough with a small block. exhaust which again, if you don't already have headers for the 360 you're looking at basically the same coin for the B units. and then splash the cash for some swap mounts, which isn't a ton of cheddar.

that's what? 2500 kubel koins? give or take to get that shoehorned in. ain't no way you're getting a small block rebuilt and installed for that kinda bread unless it's stone stock and you're got most all the high dollar parts to start.

edit: B for the low deck 383, not RB for them tall blocks

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Exactly! Except he'll need the B and not RB headers. That B engine has a little extra room than the RB in an A Body as well for rocker cover clearance as well.

 

[junkyardhero]

Exactly! Except he'll need the B and not RB headers. That B engine has a little extra room than the RB in an A Body as well for rocker cover clearance as well.

derp. thanks for bringing it to my attention. editeded

100% on the low deck motor having more space, it's about on par with a small block with headers to be honest.