Jp5
Well-Known Member
This took forever and I'm pretty stoked to be on the road again, so I thought I'd share my experience for anyone looking to do the same mod. This is not meant to be a how-to, just my experience and results. Hopefully it's helpful to anyone researching this mod.
Head porting, polishing, milling and valve job
After removing all the old components, from the intake to the gas pedal, I discovered completely disintegrated stem seams all the way across my head, so naturally I decided to remove the head and go for a valve job. and since it's off how about some milling? But before taking it to thr machine shop I spent about 4 saturdays in a row porting and polishing the head on my work bench. This way if i nick the seats (which i did a lot) they'll clean up during the valve grind. Porting and polishing is a major ***** and you'll need a number of long reach carbide burrs and sanding bits. I grabbed a the burrs from Eastwood and the sanders from Harbage Freight. Once I was happy with the porting work it was off to the shop for .030 milling and a valve job. The valve job included new exhaust valves and guides as the originals were burnt up pretty good. also had them back cut the valves. Many, many hundreds of dollars later I've got my head back, repainted, reinstalled and ready for the intake/carb swap.
Shopping list
1. Intake (4bbl offenhauser)
2. Manifold gasket
3. Carb adapter and carb gaskets
4. Carb (Holley 390)
5. Lokar throttle cable assembly (not super impressed with the quality of the cable housing)
6. Lokar kick down cable assembly
7. Complete Early A V8 gas pedal assembly (it has to be the spoon type with the separate pedal. 70's style single unit will not work. (but i'll sell you one cheap if you don't believe me)
8. Air cleaner
9. Exhaust pipe flange gasket
Manifold install
While I was at it I decided to give the intake a nice sand and polish. this also took forever but i ended up with a nice smooth and shiny intake. Also put a fresh coat of metallic gold on the exhaust manifold. looks real nice with the gold and silver legs together. The intake and exhaust go together first and then mount to the engine as 1 piece. see your manual for all the specifics.
Carb Install
Hooking up the electronic choke was probably the most difficult part since you have to run wire to a switched source. I ran the power through my firewall and connected to the back of the stereo fuse terminal in the fuse box. The ground went to the fire wall. When i first installed the carb i over tightened the mounting bolts and split the gasket. Turns out that only needs about 6ft lbs. the original crank case breathers and vacuum hoses then plugged right back in to the Holley.
Lokar KickDown Cable install
When I first got under the car to connect my kickdown cable to the transmission, i didn't think it would be possible. There's very little space to work in. BUT, after patiently working the angles with some determined finger skills, sliding around from a frontward to a backward view, i was able to get everything hooked up. It was pretty difficult though, i can't lie. You'll have to disconnect your exhaust pipe at the manifold to let in hang a few inches out of your way. Also, In order to mount the cable housing support flange to the transmission, the only bolt that would work had fluid behind it. so I had to pull the bolt, slide on the flange and get it threaded back up as quickly as possible to minimize the fluid stream coating my hands and forearms. you then have to fish the cable housing back up along the top of your transmission back into the engine compartment to connect to your carb. this feels a little floppy to me but it worked just fine in the end. the adjustment process is explained well in the Lokar instructions.
Throttle pedal and cable installation
The firewall on the early a's has little indentations right where you have to drill to install your new v8 pedal (just to the right of the steering column.) once the pedal is installed you can install the cable easy as well. however this is where i had a problem. the Lokar cable housing i got was way too long so when i installed it, it looped. not realized it had looped i pulled it tight and kinked the housing right at the fitting- ruining it. (the braided cable housing feels pretty cheap to me so be careful not to kink it.) i was able to salvage it for now but will have to replace it eventually. The Lokar instructions for this are also fine. They have illustrated instructions online if you lose your paper ones like i did.
Results
I have not dialed this Holley in yet, but I immediately feel the difference in sound and power. I've got a little deeper, throatier exhaust tone, waaaaay sharper throttle response and the motor fires up immediately even when cold. She also pulls much better on the freeway. I imagine once I get my valve adjustment and accelerator pump just right I'll see a little more improvement. Not to mention my motor looks awesome, which let's be honest, has a lot to do with this all.
jp
Head porting, polishing, milling and valve job
After removing all the old components, from the intake to the gas pedal, I discovered completely disintegrated stem seams all the way across my head, so naturally I decided to remove the head and go for a valve job. and since it's off how about some milling? But before taking it to thr machine shop I spent about 4 saturdays in a row porting and polishing the head on my work bench. This way if i nick the seats (which i did a lot) they'll clean up during the valve grind. Porting and polishing is a major ***** and you'll need a number of long reach carbide burrs and sanding bits. I grabbed a the burrs from Eastwood and the sanders from Harbage Freight. Once I was happy with the porting work it was off to the shop for .030 milling and a valve job. The valve job included new exhaust valves and guides as the originals were burnt up pretty good. also had them back cut the valves. Many, many hundreds of dollars later I've got my head back, repainted, reinstalled and ready for the intake/carb swap.
Shopping list
1. Intake (4bbl offenhauser)
2. Manifold gasket
3. Carb adapter and carb gaskets
4. Carb (Holley 390)
5. Lokar throttle cable assembly (not super impressed with the quality of the cable housing)
6. Lokar kick down cable assembly
7. Complete Early A V8 gas pedal assembly (it has to be the spoon type with the separate pedal. 70's style single unit will not work. (but i'll sell you one cheap if you don't believe me)
8. Air cleaner
9. Exhaust pipe flange gasket
Manifold install
While I was at it I decided to give the intake a nice sand and polish. this also took forever but i ended up with a nice smooth and shiny intake. Also put a fresh coat of metallic gold on the exhaust manifold. looks real nice with the gold and silver legs together. The intake and exhaust go together first and then mount to the engine as 1 piece. see your manual for all the specifics.
Carb Install
Hooking up the electronic choke was probably the most difficult part since you have to run wire to a switched source. I ran the power through my firewall and connected to the back of the stereo fuse terminal in the fuse box. The ground went to the fire wall. When i first installed the carb i over tightened the mounting bolts and split the gasket. Turns out that only needs about 6ft lbs. the original crank case breathers and vacuum hoses then plugged right back in to the Holley.
Lokar KickDown Cable install
When I first got under the car to connect my kickdown cable to the transmission, i didn't think it would be possible. There's very little space to work in. BUT, after patiently working the angles with some determined finger skills, sliding around from a frontward to a backward view, i was able to get everything hooked up. It was pretty difficult though, i can't lie. You'll have to disconnect your exhaust pipe at the manifold to let in hang a few inches out of your way. Also, In order to mount the cable housing support flange to the transmission, the only bolt that would work had fluid behind it. so I had to pull the bolt, slide on the flange and get it threaded back up as quickly as possible to minimize the fluid stream coating my hands and forearms. you then have to fish the cable housing back up along the top of your transmission back into the engine compartment to connect to your carb. this feels a little floppy to me but it worked just fine in the end. the adjustment process is explained well in the Lokar instructions.
Throttle pedal and cable installation
The firewall on the early a's has little indentations right where you have to drill to install your new v8 pedal (just to the right of the steering column.) once the pedal is installed you can install the cable easy as well. however this is where i had a problem. the Lokar cable housing i got was way too long so when i installed it, it looped. not realized it had looped i pulled it tight and kinked the housing right at the fitting- ruining it. (the braided cable housing feels pretty cheap to me so be careful not to kink it.) i was able to salvage it for now but will have to replace it eventually. The Lokar instructions for this are also fine. They have illustrated instructions online if you lose your paper ones like i did.
Results
I have not dialed this Holley in yet, but I immediately feel the difference in sound and power. I've got a little deeper, throatier exhaust tone, waaaaay sharper throttle response and the motor fires up immediately even when cold. She also pulls much better on the freeway. I imagine once I get my valve adjustment and accelerator pump just right I'll see a little more improvement. Not to mention my motor looks awesome, which let's be honest, has a lot to do with this all.
jp
