440 Engine Rebuild advice

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Rowan O'Donoghue

Rowan O'Donoghue

New Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2022
Messages
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Location
Wexford, Ireland
Hi guys,

When I got my '68 Charger with its 440 there was very little info shared with what work was done previously, other than the previous owner said it was done .020 over! :rolleyes: I knew I'd beef it up eventually, but after blowing a lifter its probably time to do it now while she's off the road.

I've enlisted the help of a local engine builder to do the work and he suggested the following parts. I know questions like this are prob asked all the time, but something around the 500hp mark that's streetable with a nice lope would be perfect. If there are any components which anyone thinks I should stay away from, or maybe a better combo I'm all ears!

btw - I'm not fully convinved on the EFI/Sniper route so might leave the current Speed Demon 750 carb as-is.

Crankshaft - ESP44037506760
Rods - SCA6676010
Pistons - TFS61617802C00
Rings - SLPE424K30
Main bearings - CLEM52233HG
Rod bearings - CLECB1512VL30
Cam bearings - DURPDP17T
Camshaft - CCA212254
Lifters - CCA82216
Pushrods - MELMPR151
T Chain & gear set - CLO93625TX9
Heads - TFS61617802C00
Gasket set - FELFS7891PT11
Intake - WND8022WND
Holley Sniper - SNE550516K
Rockers - PQX3244011
Oil pump - MELM63HV

cheers guys!
 
There is no way if you want 500 HP I would even consider buying a stock stroke crank for your build. For the same money if you intend to buy all new parts I would plan on a larger engine. It's so much easier to get the power level you seek from more displacement. At this point the best suggestions I could offer you is to spend the next month reading all you can on the forum and planning on at least a 493" engine built with a 4.15" stroke crankshaft, if not larger.

FYI: The intake you have listed is for a small block.

Tom
 
The listed cylinder heads are prepped for a solid roller camshaft of .680" lift. The camshaft on the list is a single bolt hydraulic flat tappet and the timing chain set is for a three bolt camshaft. AND the intake manifold is for a small block. Maybe you and your engine builder should rethink this build.
 
Ditto on the stroker for the type of build you're wanting. Check out 440 Source for their stroker kits. All they do is BB Mopars.
Also check out Hughes Engines, another Mopar only vendor.
 
When you run +.030" pistons don't you have to use -.030" rod bearings to make up for the excess piston diameter? Oh maybe not. I mean if we're using 5/64, 5/64 rings on a 1/16, 1/16 piston ring land doesn't it figure to go +.030/-.030 piston/rod bearings? Okay forgive me that just cruel. Sorry. Your local engine builder needs a little help if he really made that component list for your build.
 
If I were replacing my entire rotating assembly, I’d get a 500” stroker kit from 440 source.
Holley Snipers are great. I have two 440s powered by them. I’d recommend getting the Sniper ignition system to go with it.
 
Rowan,
Just some comments.
[1] 020 oversize might refer to rod &/or main brgs. Doubtful it refers to piston size because 020 is an unusual oversize [except possibly for factory pistons].
[2] Streetable, with the HP substantially greater HP than the engine size is often mutually exclusive. It will depend on your definition of streetable & the skills of the engine builder.
[3] Above suggestions of a stroker are excellent, & a better way to go; you end up with a better behaving engine & still getting the desired hp.
 
Rowan O'Donoghue said:
Hi guys,

When I got my '68 Charger with its 440 there was very little info shared with what work was done previously, other than the previous owner said it was done .020 over! :rolleyes: I knew I'd beef it up eventually, but after blowing a lifter its probably time to do it now while she's off the road.

I've enlisted the help of a local engine builder to do the work and he suggested the following parts. I know questions like this are prob asked all the time, but something around the 500hp mark that's streetable with a nice lope would be perfect. If there are any components which anyone thinks I should stay away from, or maybe a better combo I'm all ears!

btw - I'm not fully convinved on the EFI/Sniper route so might leave the current Speed Demon 750 carb as-is.

Crankshaft - ESP44037506760
Rods - SCA6676010
Pistons - TFS61617802C00
Rings - SLPE424K30
Main bearings - CLEM52233HG
Rod bearings - CLECB1512VL30
Cam bearings - DURPDP17T
Camshaft - CCA212254
Lifters - CCA82216
Pushrods - MELMPR151
T Chain & gear set - CLO93625TX9
Heads - TFS61617802C00
Gasket set - FELFS7891PT11
Intake - WND8022WND
Holley Sniper - SNE550516K
Rockers - PQX3244011
Oil pump - MELM63HV

cheers guys!
Click to expand...

And this is how **** hits the fan.
Nope... I would not use that cam unless I was sacrificing the power goal for streetability.
But heres the issue..
You have someone already enlisted to help you... and you go get second opinions ..which will more than likely bring to the attention of the builder helping you....and **** hits fan. Dont take this personal
... cause I don't mean any insult...but I'd tell you to kick rocks and don't ever approach me for anything ever again if you did this after enlisting me to build it.
He either knows how to do it or he doesn't.. but you cannot have more than one cook in this kitchen. It either gets morphed/interwoven into the current plan..throwing it off and ruining its overall power curve and manners.... or itll be arguing and you'll always think he left power on the table.
I had someone do this. The machine shop cyl head guy at total performce.. 'hacks' tried taking my customer... I put all his **** in the back of his truck and put it on the street and said pick it up...more like tow it.

He called back 9 months later apologizing and saying it not only cost him 2.5 times as much than I was doing it for.. but that it had no bottom end torque and he "wasn't happy with it".
If you doubt... I'm out. Confidence is key to a good relationship with a builder.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
And this is how **** hits the fan.
Nope... I would not use that cam unless I was sacrificing the power goal for streetability.
But heres the issue..
You have someone already enlisted to help you... and you go get second opinions ..which will more than likely bring to the attention of the builder helping you....and **** hits fan. Dont take this personal
... cause I don't mean any insult...but I'd tell you to kick rocks and don't ever approach me for anything ever again if you did this after enlisting me to build it.
He either knows how to do it or he doesn't.. but you cannot have more than one cook in this kitchen. It either gets morphed/interwoven into the current plan..throwing it off and ruining its overall power curve and manners.... or itll be arguing and you'll always think he left power on the table.
I had someone do this. The machine shop cyl head guy at total performce.. 'hacks' tried taking my customer... I put all his **** in the back of his truck and put it on the street and said pick it up...more like tow it.

He called back 9 months later apologizing and saying it not only cost him 2.5 times as much than I was doing it for.. but that it had no bottom end torque and he "wasn't happy with it".
If you doubt... I'm out. Confidence is key to a good relationship with a builder.
Click to expand...

And if his machinist falls into the "doesnt know " catagory ?
 
mbaird said:
And if his machinist falls into the "doesnt know " catagory ?
Click to expand...
Then his judgement in choosing a builder is worthless and he should just go buy a crate motor. At some point you need to be smart enough to know what you dont know.. yet have also faith enough in someone else who says they do know..and has examples of such work successfully performed.

Confidence is lacking.
 
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We all have to start....somewhere. Doesn't know? Yep, at some point that applies, or did apply, to all of us....
 
Bewy said:
We all have to start....somewhere. Doesn't know? Yep, at some point that applies, or did apply, to all of us....
Click to expand...
First one I ever did was a 383 Magnum, in 1991. Picked up the MP engine book, had a Solid Mopar Brother for Tech, and A Ford Brother to help me. It didn't hurt that the main Napa had a Machine Shop, and the head guy there knew Tommy. Walked in with my crank, he miked it, and I went to United Speed World to get my bearings. They did hot tank the block for me. Shame on me for not doing an align hone, and replacing the stock rod bolts w/ a 20$ set of MP ones without a resize in the rods. Motor spun close to 7 grand MANY times, street and strip.... ahhh the Good Ol Days
 
A 500hp 440 is not hard thats streetable mainly cos of the TF240's. The cam you chose will have 300cfm of flow from those heads which is plenty for 500hp, no need for a new 3.75 crank if your stock forged?..unit is ok. Don't even need the scat rods but not a bad idea along with the pistons for light weight but LY's will work well enough if prepped properly with good bolts unless you wanna go 7000rpm regularly which I doubt.

Intake wise an RPM is fine or even a single plain with an 850DP, 750 too small but give it a go for the velocity/torque, the sniper is not a bad idea but involves more money. Keep it simple. However a 500/512 is not a bad idea either except that if you want to be in the throttle the torque that will have will have you visiting the tyre shop every month unless you warm those DOT drag radials up before playing.

To give you an idea my old stock 440-6pk motor under 10:1CR with a Team G and an old 4781 850DP, just 260-ish cfm big valve 906 heads and admittedly a big sft cam .650/.650" made an on track 530fwhp for weight/mph. Just a few thoughts, just because all this new stuff is out there it don't mean you have to go for it to achieve what you want.
 
Be patient, the guy's in Ireland... for all we know he could have the only 440 in the whole country. I doubt you can just go to your local machinist in Ireland with a Chrysler 440 big block V8 and expect him to have any idea what to put in it.
 
Heywodja said:
If I was you I would reach out to the folks at www.440source.com
They are a one stop shop for this kind of build
Click to expand...
Their head gaskets are crap, rocker arms have been crap, pistons...etc One stop if you want faulty parts. Go for the heads and skip the rest...but again... more conflicting info that only confuses. Hope the op drinks a few wexfords before reading this thread.
I say he change the cam or faulty lifter and maybe freshen the heads, but hey..
Maybe Jim can just send this guy a recipe in a private message and save his ***.lol
 
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Here's my build: Stock stroke 440 (total cost to build $6800 which included labor and many second hand parts).

For those who say you need a stroker to make power....
Currently at 593HP/578lbft on 91 pump- My engine builder says there's more but I'll belive it when I see it.

Stock cast crank
Resized and prepped LY rods with ARP hardware
ARP studs, mains and heads
ICON863 .030 pistons zero decked
11.2: compression
Hughes 5054 solid cam .627/.640 lift @1.6 with EDM lifters
Hughes 1.6 roller rockers
Comp pushrods
Fully Ported Promaxx Heads: Ive had a few people touch these up... I could have bought TF heads by the time I got these where I wanted. (311 cfm at .600 lift) Valves back cut and 5 angle Valve Job
Heads milled .040 to obtain 80cc combustion chamber
Isky Springs
Trick flow single plane intake
Brawler 950cfm
Milodon road race pan

By comparison, my engine dyno'd immeditately after a mild 400 based 511 build which dyno'd 543hp and 629 lbft.
This build consisted of 10:1 compression, RPM heads (untouched) Comp hydraulic Extreme .563 lift (236 at .050 I think). Eddy RPM intake and the dyno carb.... I felt this would be a great street car engine but I think the heads really corked the upper rpm range HP and could have used more cam. THis engine was pretty much done making power at about 5600rpm for so

My engine is deffinately more "racey" but the engineer who built the 511 lost a 100 bucks to my engine builder.
 
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After I built mine, I wished I went the stroker route. At the time I was weary of the 440 source stuff, but by the time you source all the **** anyway, it aint far off the sticker price of the stroker
 
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