440 question

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hieneken49

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Hi, so this isnt for an A body but i figure the pros are all here. I picked up a ramcharger with a 440 BB. The engine is a 1968 440. I had no oil pressure in the engine and a rough idle after buying the truck. I did the oil pump first which didn't fix the issue. I figured it had a spun bearing so i started to tear down the engine to get it rebuilt, when i got to the intake manifold i found a lifter popped out and a bent pushrod.



After some research i found out this could cause no oil pressure, So i ordered a new lifter and pushrod, assembled everything back together and i have some slack in the rocker that had the bent pushrod, see video below.

[ame]http://vid36.photobucket.com/albums/e22/hieneken49/VID_20140824_124009_145-1.mp4[/ame]

What do you guys think, i cant see anything visually wrong with the cam but i did not pull it. Before i continue assembly, is there anything that can be done at this point to shore up that rocker? could the rocker itself be bent?

Jake
 
make sure that cam lobe isn't damaged. the rocker could be bent. the valve could be stuck slightly open.
 
Probably a bent valve from the engine being over revved.
 
Pull the rockers and put a straight edge across all the valve tips. is that one lower than the rest?
 
will pull the rockers again tomorrow.
Thanks for the ideas.

I saw the video didnt work, heres a new link,
[ame]http://vid36.photobucket.com/albums/e22/hieneken49/VID_20140824_124009_145-1.mp4[/ame]
 
Inspect things, as suggested - then throw another pushrod in it. Happened to me once, many years ago, out of the blue, on a stockish engine during startup one day. Installed another pushrod and never had an issue again.
 
well its def got a bent valve, i pulled the head and all four cylinders are scored by the valves, i dont know why that happened, i guess someone f-bombed up somewhere. Looks like ihave no choice besides a full rebuild. I guess i could pull the pistons and replace em? is that possible without boreing them out? Also the 3rd cylinder was full of coolant when i pulled the head... is that from me taking it off and water getting in or was the head gasket blown? 3rd from the right in the picture below

http://s36.photobucket.com/user/hieneken49/media/IMG_20140828_164414_506.jpg.html
http://s36.photobucket.com/user/hieneken49/media/IMG_20140828_172323_244.jpg.html
http://s36.photobucket.com/user/hieneken49/media/IMG_20140828_172301_422.jpg.html
 
You need to measure the cylinder bores at three different levels to find if it needs a bore or if you can get away with just honing it. Maximum side load on the piston is when the crank is at 90°, which is mid stroke, therefore you should measure the bore in the middle of the stroke and at the top and bottom perpendicular to the crank axis.

Definitely do a valve job and check all the valves for bending. You are lucky it wasn't worse.
 
Definitely over revved, or someone put in a bigger cam without checking piston to valve clearence. You can see where most all of the valves were clipping the pistons.
 
what do you think about the water in that one cylinder? when i unbolted the headers water came out of that 3rd cylinder... should i be worried about the block being cracked? Can i run those pistons like that? I know the valve is bent for sure so i know i need a valve job at the least. I was gonna puill the timming cover and see if the timing is off.
 
Coolant is most likely from you pulling the head. There are no signs of it burning coolant, or that cylinder would be Clean not black. The cam has to much lift for your pistons. You need to make clearance notches for the valves. No big deal, just do it with a die grinder. Exhaust valves need room as the piston is "chasing" them closed. If you don't have enough room, BAM the piston hits the valve. You will have to replace all the exhaust valves and any intake valves that have hit. Good valve job and notch the pistons, should be good to go.
 
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