440 rebuild questions

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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
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I'm starting to gather some misc. parts for my 440. Never built one before just curious as to what you guys like. What kind of intake gaskets do y'all like to use? Certain brand or type? Also is the stock distributor drive plastic? I'm assuming the bronze is better? With my build im about 9.3 comp. with iron heads. Probably looking at 480hp ish. Are ARP Main and head bolts a must? Or could I use stock?
 
if this is the first time the motor is rebuilt you can reuse the stock bolts at that hp. later on if you want to had hp use studs this time. is use felpro intakes most of the time, you get the kit with the tub and 4 thin intakes. the stock distributor is steel and can be reused with a hydraulic or solid flat tappet cam. the felpro head gaskets are great too.
 
Thanks Bob I have seen alot of different intake gaskets. Ones with different numbers and such must be port size? how do I know which ones I need?
 
I actually bought a fel pro gasket set awhile back and intake set I forgot about. So I got that out the the way.

Header gaskets? there is some exhaust gaskets in the kit will they work for Headers or is there a difference?
 
The difference in the valley pans are one has the exhaust crossover blocked and one doesn't. If you're not using an automatic choke, then get the one with the crossover blocked (Felpro 1215). Also remember the ones for the 383 and 400 are different (narrower).
As far as the paper gaskets that come with it, if you're using stock heads and intake, then you don't have to use them. If you have aluminum heads or intake, then I'd use one on each side to help with the dissimilar metal heat expansion. Using all 4 paper gaskets will probably throw the bolt holes too far off.
 
As far as header gaskets, I've had good luck with the thin multi-layered aluminum gaskets. They don't come with any kit, you'll have to buy them separate. Every few months you'll have to re-tighten the bolts, but that's true with almost any header gasket.
 
The Percy's are what I have. They are thin layers of solid aluminum. I don't remember them costing that much though.
 
no but i would vote YES on new rod bolts. main and head bolts are tougher and not so likely to be suspect. but since you have it apart a new set of ARP rod bolts would be a good idea... good bang for the buck if you know what i mean.

definitely get a brand spakin' new oil pump. that's not an item to cut corners on.

iron heads... if the valves look fried at all, dont reuse. new valves/springs/retainers/keepers are a good idea since if you reuse the old ones, and a single one of those items fails you have a big problem.

gaskets... it's cheaper to get a whole set, they come in kits and fel pro is a great brand. i would shy away from the cheaper off brands or no-name kits.
 
oil pump drive shaft... Mopar Performance P3690875 has a bronze gear (for roller cams / dont last as long not for extended street use)
dcc-3690875_w_m.jpg

and Mopar Performance P3571071 has a steel gear (for non roller cams)
dcc-3571071_m.jpg


also there is a good book on amazon
How to Build Max-performance Mopar Big Blocks by Andy Finkbeiner
 
Yep I do have a set of gaskets from fel pro. They do come with exhaust gaskets but not sure if they will work with headers. Actually going with new rods entirely not just bolts.
 
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