5.7 Hemi in Dodge Demon w/ power steering

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Gdemon said:
The 2009 5.7 car manifolds share the same exhaust ports as the 6.1. I think they are around 90 dollars at the dealer. Part number 53013848AE 53013849AE
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Other than the port design, are the 2009 5.7 car manifolds a different physical shape to the older 5.7 car manifolds?
 
so are you running the 2009 manifold with a stock k frame and a power box? The picture looked like a manual box, also will the 09 manifold work on a 05 5.7?
 
To add to the " Power steering box fit, or not issue. " The logical answer is, ( wait for the drum roll ) No, it doesn't. Although Dick at Firm Feel says a few of his customers do use stock boxes ( I'm thinking he thinks my cuda is an E body.) , and without the expensive modifications. They get lines that are metric, to standard, and an external reservoir, and nobody has exploding seals in their boxes.
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My Factory power steering box fits with my Hemi and the headers I made. 73 duster. It is possible.

Borgeson and tti's would be a nicer finished product though.
 
What Uhcoog1 said.

Right now there are two ways for power steering. The best, easiest, and cleanest is an Alter-K-Tion. The second best is a set of TTI's and the new Borgeson power steering box, which is significantly smaller than the 60s era power steering unit.

PLEASE CALL TTI AND SPEAK TO A REP before ordering. The headers designed for the Borgeson unit are slightly different than the standard headers, which are slightly different than the ones used with the Alter-k-tion.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Uhcoog1, and Joe Dokes, are probably right, I have no experience with that. Although I live by Bill Reilly, and he's not only a nice guy, but he's a guy who really is a genius, and put a lot of thought into what he wanted to create. No offense to anybody, but I see a lot of money up here being thrown at problems, and if you have it, more power to you. We now have a bunch of solutions to problems we've been plagued with for years. Although, if you are a average Joe, and you've already thrown a wheel barrel of duckets at obtaining a good motor, than my solution is better aimed at that segment of our car thing. A good set of tubular control arms will allow geometry changes to your stock set up that'll massively improve a stock set up, and allow you ride to take advantage of modern tire technology. I'm a daily A Body driver, I live in the mountains, and there's not one straight road around here. Most of the new K member manufactures have their *** kicking set up, and than some form of stock upgrade. The suspension in A, B, E, and C bodies are out dated, but they'll never be bad. With a low center of gravity in the bottom control arm, it's inherently good. That said, if your geography is that of twisty, turnies, and you can do an AlterK, you probably should, even before the hot engine. If it's not in your budget don't put your car in the car trader, just tweek what you have.
 
Also if you are going to install a gen III hemi in a A body, you're most likely need to move/angel the top of the column to the left to clear the cylinder head/ valve cover ( or shave the engine with a dye grinder, not recommended. ) Where the column meets the fire wall, the column has a bushing. ( correct me if I'm wrong ) This bushing keeps dirt, and exhaust fumes out of the column, and interior. It may need chopping. I removed it, and used a Grainger mountable bearing slipped over the shaft, and bolted to the firewall. ( shim as required for angel.) Seal that with a C/V boot, maybe a T Bar boot.) The first time you install these motors, you are writing the book. Remember, or better, write it down for the future.
 
If you need to do this build on a tight budget. Contact me. I installed my engine at the end of 2007, before most people dared. I bought a 5.7 hemi, and it ended up costing me like 10 grand,( with install parts.) and than 2 weeks later a local school teacher destroyed a srt8 jeep, and that cost me half the Somalis. I did carb, not fuel injection. Because I feared the computer thing at that time. I had to figure most of it out myself, and there were no install packages. Installing, wiring, fueling,transmission, rear. I have very early TTI/ Schumaker mounts ( experimental ) that needed some tweeking. Early header that were fun to install. So if you have any troubles, my issues were 2 fold. I made enough mistakes for us all. E; Back than the guys at the shop swore it wouldn't mate up to the K frame. I had one guy saying he needed to heat the header pipe to clear the trans pan, and another guy I caught lifting the whole car by the transmission tunnel. You don't want to go through the non-sense, and B.S., patience, and cool nerves will prevail, but it takes planning. Either motor is good for mega mileage reliability ( I commuted 80 mile round trips for 8 months, 7 days a week, on a untested motor. The only mod I needed to make engine wise, was using a mechanical truck fan), good fuel efficiency when compared to power.( I get 17 mph with a xfi 273 cam ) Any motor that'll bring you 1 bhp per cube is impressive, this motor responds to all the old school tricks. 400 RWhp is not unusual with a mild bump to the idle.It'll run at below zero, or 108 in the heat. It worked out so well, it convinced one of my friends to convert his Camaro to a new LS, because he got sick of messing around while mine was turn key, it's almost hassle free once you found your recipe.
 
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