5.9 Magnum Parts Sources

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LS&S

LS&S

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Aylett, VA
I am considering 5.9 Magnum stroked to 408 to replace 318 in 1966 Coronet.
Weekend Street use car. May be one trip to the strip to see what it will do.
Considering an Eagle stroker kit.
Where are you sourcing the rest of your parts?
Dual Plane intake
360 front sump oil pan
360 oil pickup
360 oil pump
360 oil pump drive shaft
360 left side motor mount A,B,E,C-body same?
Cam & Valve Springs
Roller Lifters
Rockers, pivots, studs
Push rods
Gasket set
Magnum Heads

Have and do not need:
LA Radiator and water pump
727 small block trans, torque converter, and kickdown linkage
Small block headers and new 2.5" dual exhaust
Like new Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carb
New fuel pump, lines, gas tank and fuel sending unit

Thanks. Trying to spend money wisely, if I decide to go through with this project. Ben
 
LS&S said:
Have and do not need:
LA Radiator and water pump
727 small block trans, torque converter, and kickdown linkage
Small block headers and new 2.5" dual exhaust
Like new Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carb
New fuel pump, lines, gas tank and fuel sending unit
Click to expand...
Seriously, if you're going to drop the coin to build a stroker, add a carb of at least 750 cfm to your list.
A 600 is only marginally big enough for a stock displacement 360.
 
LS&S said:
Where are you sourcing the rest of your parts?
Dual Plane intake> depending on what you want: classifieds here, ebay or summit/jegs
360 front sump oil pan> summit/jegs

360 oil pickup> summit (melling)
360 oil pump> summit (melling)
360 oil pump drive shaft> check yours, should be fine, otherwise mancini, jegs or used
360 left side motor mount A,B,E,C-body same?> if same, rock auto
Cam & Valve Springs> cam i'd send to oregon for regrind, spring & keeper kit from hughes
Roller Lifters> stock melling or engine tech from summit or ebay
Rockers, pivots, studs> reuse stock, otherwise summit or rock
Push rods> comp via ebay, summit, amazon
Gasket set> summit
Magnum Heads> local rebuilder or online source that gives warranty

Have and do not need:
LA Radiator and water pump
727 small block trans, torque converter, and kickdown linkage
Small block headers and new 2.5" dual exhaust
Like new Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carb
New fuel pump, lines, gas tank and fuel sending unit

Thanks. Trying to spend money wisely, if I decide to go through with this project. Ben
Click to expand...

you'll need a flex plate, likely. summit/jegs should have what you need
sounds like you want to reuse the front cover and dress it like an LA, and use the mechanical fuel pump? if so, you'll need to get the cam snout spacer for the pump eccentric. that's only available at hughes.

a note here: the ONLY two things i'd buy from hughes are the spring/keeper/lock kit and the snout spacer



oh, and that carb is *tiny*, i'd go at least a 750
 
LS&S said:
360 left side motor mount A,B,E,C-body same?
Click to expand...
No, they're not all the same. Use your 318 mount- it just requires a 5/8" spacer behind one lug. It's a factory part and you know it fits your K frame, unlike some aftermarket adapters.
 
Add this handy website to your favorites: Magnum Swap -your source for Mopar engine swap information.
In my Magnum swap, I used a 360 car oil pan from Mancini racing with a LA timing cover and the oil pan gasket for a Magnum following the directions on that website. You cut the front "U" off and use the "U" from the LA timing cover gasket set. Mancini has many of the parts you're after. Good people too. I also used the Hughes parts mentioned above.
 
UTAWSOME was a place I used to get engine stuff for my 95 Dakota. All they do is Magnum engines. They are not a fancy outfit but, they get back to you personally thru e-mail so, it may be a bit slow, but you will get a reply & very good & knowledgeable service. They have been around since Chrysler started the 3.9, 5.2, 5.9 & V10Magnum engines. Marty & his daughter run the business I believe. It may be worth checking them out.
 
junkyardhero said:
you'll need a flex plate, likely. summit/jegs should have what you need
sounds like you want to reuse the front cover and dress it like an LA, and use the mechanical fuel pump? if so, you'll need to get the cam snout spacer for the pump eccentric. that's only available at hughes.

a note here: the ONLY two things i'd buy from hughes are the spring/keeper/lock kit and the snout spacer

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oh, and that carb is *tiny*, i'd go at least a 750
Click to expand...
Thanks all!
I will go with an electric fuel pump and pressure regulator
 
Professor Fate said:
No, they're not all the same. Use your 318 mount- it just requires a 5/8" spacer behind one lug. It's a factory part and you know it fits your K frame, unlike some aftermarket adapters.
Click to expand...
Thanks! so is it B&E are same, but Truck, Van, A-body, and C-body are unique to those car lines?
 
niceolddart said:
UTAWSOME was a place I used to get engine stuff for my 95 Dakota. All they do is Magnum engines. They are not a fancy outfit but, they get back to you personally thru e-mail so, it may be a bit slow, but you will get a reply & very good & knowledgeable service. They have been around since Chrysler started the 3.9, 5.2, 5.9 & V10Magnum engines. Marty & his daughter run the business I believe. It may be worth checking them out.
Click to expand...
Looks like they closed 01/01/2025. Bummer!
Service Manuals – MyMopar
 

niceolddart said:
I did not know that. Thats a shame. It was a great company to deal with. I guess there is not much of a call for Magnum engine stuff. They did some pretty cool things to ring more power from those engines too.
Click to expand...
There is plenty of demand, but Marty says he is pursuing his doctorate in aviation
 
If the Eagle stroker crank has the 6 hole rear flange, your flex plate should bolt right back up. The drivers side motor mount from your 318 is easy. Make a spacer or use a stack of flat washers behind that one ear. Before you put the new motor in your car, bolt your headers to it to make sure they don't hit the mounting points where the mid mount truck motor mounts bolted up. Some headers do, while others don't. Better to find out you need to grind on the block while it's on the stand versus in the car! Also, you don't have to use Magnum heads. You can use LA heads and intake. You would just need to plan for and use push rod oiling for the rockers. Nowadays, the only Magnum heads worth using are Edelbrocks since EQ heads are mostly a big disappointment now that they are coming from China. There's a long thread on here about port mismatch with them. Good luck, and have fun with your project.

:thumbsup:
 
JDMopar said:
If the Eagle stroker crank has the 6 hole rear flange, your flex plate should bolt right back up. The drivers side motor mount from your 318 is easy. Make a spacer or use a stack of flat washers behind that one ear. Before you put the new motor in your car, bolt your headers to it to make sure they don't hit the mounting points where the mid mount truck motor mounts bolted up. Some headers do, while others don't. Better to find out you need to grind on the block while it's on the stand versus in the car! Also, you don't have to use Magnum heads. You can use LA heads and intake. You would just need to plan for and use push rod oiling for the rockers. Nowadays, the only Magnum heads worth using are Edelbrocks since EQ heads are mostly a big disappointment now that they are coming from China. There's a long thread on here about port mismatch with them. Good luck, and have fun with your project.

:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Thanks JD!
Flex plate: I've read that the magnum flex plate is weighted because the torque converter is neutral. My 318 torque converter is also neutral balance, but with neutral flex plate. Are you sure I can use a neutral flex plate with neutral converter on a 5.9?
Engine mount: Good instruction on the engine mount.
Headers: the passenger side header comes off easy once the engine is out, can check with that. Driver side has pipes above and below center link. Indication of a cheap header?
Heads: that sucks about Chinese EQ. I was planning to use them due to old recs from www.magnumswap.com and Rick Ehrenberg. I guess better to know than not to know. I bet it adds a lot to cost. UGH. Thanks again.
 
Last edited:
LS&S said:
Thanks JD!
Flex plate: I've read that the magnum flex plate is weighted because the torque converter is neutral. My 318 torque converter is also neutral balance, but with neutral flex plate. Are you sure I can use a neutral flex plate with neutral converter on a 5.9?
Engine mount: Good instruction on the engine mount.
Headers: the passenger side header comes off easy once the engine is out, can check with that. Driver side has pipes above and below center link. Indication of a cheap header?
Heads: that sucks about Chinese EQ. I was planning to use them due to old recs from www.magnumswap.com and Rick Ehrenberg. I guess better to know than not to know. I bet it adds a lot to cost. UGH. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
You said you are building a 408 with a stroker crank in a Magnum block, if I read that correctly. In that case you are NOT using Magnum balance info. You will use whatever balance the rotating assembly requires, which are based on LA architecture. Some 4" cranks with light pistons will require LA offset weight on the front damper, but will use a neutral converter and flex plate on the rear.

Honestly, you are probably better off just buying a BluePrint Engines 408 ready to go. Really good value and nothing really to figure out.
 
I was thinking along the lines of what @Bobzilla wrote above, with you using the 4" crank. The rotating assembly will determine the balance. If you use the stock 5.9 Magnum crank and rotating assembly, then yes, you will need to use a 5.9 Magnum flex plate and oval one torque converter to flex plate hole out so your existing converter will bolt up.
 
Bobzilla said:
You said you are building a 408 with a stroker crank in a Magnum block, if I read that correctly. In that case you are NOT using Magnum balance info. You will use whatever balance the rotating assembly requires, which are based on LA architecture. Some 4" cranks with light pistons will require LA offset weight on the front damper, but will use a neutral converter and flex plate on the rear.

Honestly, you are probably better off just buying a BluePrint Engines 408 ready to go. Really good value and nothing really to figure out.
Click to expand...

JDMopar said:
I was thinking along the lines of what @Bobzilla wrote above, with you using the 4" crank. The rotating assembly will determine the balance. If you use the stock 5.9 Magnum crank and rotating assembly, then yes, you wil
Click to expand...
Great info Bob & JD!
Just to be clear, the stroker kits fit both LA 360 and Magnum 5.9?
EQ versus Edelbrock: that jacks my cost from $844 per pair of heads to $2382 per pair of magnum heads. Bad news. Is there a more economical new assembled LA head that you recommend?
On using BluePrint engines. I know a machinist who is 76 and still has his own shop. He is a Mopar guy, but more into big blocks and hemis. What I would really like is to be his helper/grunt worker and see the engine go together. Also, might save some bucks, but costs are starting to get ugly. He recommended the stroker kit. That idea may have to go into the garbage.

Thanks again. Ben
 
You can use Speedmaster or Edelbrock LA style heads on a 5.9 Magnum block. If you're not in a big hurry, wait for the Speedmaster Black Friday sale. Good deals to be had when they open the sale up! You gotta be quick though....they always sell out in a day or so during the sale. Even if you buy the Edelbrocks or Speedmaster heads, get the gentleman you spoke of to disassemble them and check everything. Sometimes the valve guides are a little too tight, so better to catch that beforehand.
 
LS&S said:
I am considering 5.9 Magnum stroked to 408 to replace 318 in 1966 Coronet.
Weekend Street use car. May be one trip to the strip to see what it will do.
Considering an Eagle stroker kit.
Where are you sourcing the rest of your parts?
Dual Plane intake
360 front sump oil pan
360 oil pickup
360 oil pump
360 oil pump drive shaft
360 left side motor mount A,B,E,C-body same?
Cam & Valve Springs
Roller Lifters
Rockers, pivots, studs
Push rods
Gasket set
Magnum Heads

Have and do not need:
LA Radiator and water pump
727 small block trans, torque converter, and kickdown linkage
Small block headers and new 2.5" dual exhaust
Like new Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carb
New fuel pump, lines, gas tank and fuel sending unit

Thanks. Trying to spend money wisely, if I decide to go through with this project. Ben
Click to expand...
Rotating assembly - from all the site I am going with Cnc motorsports.

I many get the other parts from Summitracing

Heads- magnums aren't sold anymore and stock ones aren't worth spending the .oney to upgrade.
You have, Eq, promax for slightly better than stock replacements. Edelbrock RPM and the TFS 190 for max hp...but are expensive $$.

600cfm is too small. Edelbrock RPM, Weind Stealth and jeg or speedmaster RPM knock offs.


Cam - depends on how radical and if you want sloid or hyd roller. Comp cams, Lunati, Howard’s, Erson, bullet/UltraDyne, etc.
 
LS&S said:
Heads: that sucks about Chinese EQ. I was planning to use them due to old recs from www.magnumswap.com and Rick Ehrenberg. I guess better to know than not to know. I bet it adds a lot to cost. UGH. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

The shame of it is, it's not just that they don't flow well anymore but that a lot of them are cast wrong and the intake ports are misaligned.

New EQ Head port misalignment?

You could look for a use set of the early EQ's. They were used as stock replacements for years and I have heard of people finding sets in the pick and pull yards. The end of the cylinder head is distinctive as I recall, there are threads here about identifying them, which means (in theory) you don't have to pull the motor apart to check. Just an idea.
 
LS&S said:
I am considering 5.9 Magnum stroked to 408 to replace 318 in 1966 Coronet.
Weekend Street use car. May be one trip to the strip to see what it will do.
Considering an Eagle stroker kit.
Where are you sourcing the rest of your parts?
Dual Plane intake
360 front sump oil pan
360 oil pickup
360 oil pump
360 oil pump drive shaft
360 left side motor mount A,B,E,C-body same?
Cam & Valve Springs
Roller Lifters
Rockers, pivots, studs
Push rods
Gasket set
Magnum Heads

Have and do not need:
LA Radiator and water pump
727 small block trans, torque converter, and kickdown linkage
Small block headers and new 2.5" dual exhaust
Like new Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carb
New fuel pump, lines, gas tank and fuel sending unit

Thanks. Trying to spend money wisely, if I decide to go through with this project. Ben
Click to expand...
If you don't have a magnum already, I would suggest get an LA block instead. The options of Cylinder heads and intake manifolds make it a much better choice, IMO. I'd actually get a used 400 block and really build a Monster.

You didn't mention yet what powee are you looking for? What you want it to do will determine what parts and how expensive it will get. Dual 2-1/2" exhaust 400/450hp, anymore and dual 3" would be a better choice.

The 5.2 magnum ( I have) that I am building is going to cost $9,000 +/- with me doing the assembly. Then another $1,500 in driveline mods.

Could be cheaper to swap in a Carburated lightly modded 5.7l. Have a YouTube video of a guy that listed the costs to put the engine in a challenger was around $6,400.
 
Last edited:
I am really disappointed in INDY Cylinder heads for nolonger making the MA-X heads. They were the only economical High performance magnum heads. Trickflow should have offered a 1.92" 170cc and a 220cc with 2.08"<2.125" intake valves.
 
Jersey Devil said:
If you don't have a magnum already, I would suggest get an LA block instead. The options of Cylinder heads and intake manifolds make it a much better choice, IMO. I'd actually get a used 400 block and really build a Monster.

You didn't mention yet what powee are you looking for? What you want it to do will determine what parts and how expensive it will get. Dual 2-1/2" exhaust 400/450hp, anymore and dual 3" would be a better choice.

The 5.2 magnum ( I have) that I am building is going to cost $9,000 +/- with me doing the assembly. Then another $1,500 in driveline mods.

Could be cheaper to swap in a Carburated lightly modded 5.7l. Have a YouTube video of a guy that listed the costs to put the engine in a challenger was around $6,400.
Click to expand...
I agree with 400 or another big block. I was originally thinking of a transition engine to get me into a time of more available finances. Then it turned into a stroker. Then $8000 cost, $6500 parts, plus $1500 labor est. Time to bail out and do a big block.
 
LS&S said:
I agree with 400 or another big block. I was originally thinking of a transition engine to get me into a time of more available finances. Then it turned into a stroker. Then $8000 cost, $6500 parts, plus $1500 labor est. Time to bail out and do a big block.
Click to expand...
Yeah, people rarely tell you what it costed them to build their engine. Most probably had someone build their's and pay $5,000 more.

My 5.2 magnum is in my 93 Dakota that neeeded work, due to valvetrain noise.

I'm on here because it's the forum that has the most engine threads( pickup forum is dead(.

I already had alot of parts, but when I pulled the camshaft the bearings were shot. Of course had cracked heads, which snowballed into a "ALL OUT" build.

Only kept it Magnum due " Sentimental " reason that I've owned it for 24+ yrs. I actually bought it the day before 9/11 (8/31/2001).

The worst part of MAGNUMs is the lack of choices. Stock heads vertical bolts manifolds. You have 2 efi manifolds stock or $850 options and 2 Carburated. All low cost parts say, " rated <500hp", anything stronger is 50-100% MORE Expensive. Pistons for the most part are 9.6< 10.2 cr OR 11.4 <12.2 compression ratio designs for 0.030 over 390 builds. Nothing in the 10.5 < 10.7cr Sweet spot.

Go with Expensive Heads, you have 1or 2??? Efi LA manifolds, 10+/- ( LA manifolds) for Carburated.

Since I am a Speed Demon aka Jersey Devil. I would have gone new gen hemi or big block if I had a due over. I might have to go boosted anyway to get a STREETABLE mid/high 500hp, as I still can't find a cam that will give me what I want. It seems it's either mild 400hp streetable stroker build OR Race build with manual brakes and 3,500+ stall coverters. Both UNACCEPTABLE to me.

Good Luck.
 
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